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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided to give CSS a shot on the 4B11T, since i want to the unorthodox way of building this motor. I paired the assembly like this:
CSS “800whp” 4B11T block
O-ringed
87MM bore, stock crank/stock stroke
Wiesco HD pistons
Wiesco Boostline rods w/ 625+ bolts
625+ ARP mains and head studs
King bearings (coated by CNC Werx)
Porting solutions “stage 3” style ported head
ATP GTX3576r Gen1
GSC S2 cams
Brian Crower springs and retainers
Ferrea 6000 competition series standard valves
Ferrea bronze manganese exhaust side valve guides
Magnus exhaust mivec delete
and other brand new factory mitsu parts.


I will report back with my honest review on the engine, the short block was also built by CSS, and for the price i think this should be the next big thing in this platform. sleeves are great, but for those who want the engine to have stock like reliability, added strength and no cooling issues; this is the way to go. I’m shooting for around 650-680whp on E85 for now, and around 500whp on 93, this will be well within the limits of what CNC werx rates their CSS at. they even warranty the block at those power limits, and from what the owner of CNC Werx tells me, there are guys out there making 900whp on this CSS 4B11T, hitting 9’s at the 1/4 mile and driving back home in the same car. Let’s see how this goes my friends !
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
very interested on reviews performance and total price and steps you did after tuning it..
total price for the short block was right around 5,000USD with internals and machining. granted i have a couple of extras that make the block integrity extra strong. if you wanted a slightly simpler build it would likely be around 4,850USD
tuning will be handled by chris carbee or marc @ apex powered depending on scheduling & timing. both are excellent and i trust both with my evo. the block was plateau honed, so break in will be about 500 miles. i’ll be breaking it in on conventional dino oil 10W-40, with two or three cycles. then i’ll be putting in VR1 full synthetic 20W-50
 

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total price for the short block was right around 5,000USD with internals and machining. granted i have a couple of extras that make the block integrity extra strong. if you wanted a slightly simpler build it would likely be around 4,850USD
tuning will be handled by chris carbee or marc @ apex powered depending on scheduling & timing. both are excellent and i trust both with my evo. the block was plateau honed, so break in will be about 500 miles. i’ll be breaking it in on conventional dino oil 10W-40, with two or three cycles. then i’ll be putting in VR1 full synthetic 20W-50
Thank you for detailed explanation. I want to do the same thing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Motor is in car!! now that i’ve gotten to spend some time with it and break it in here are my thoughts. so for me i think there are two schools of thought with building a motor, there are those who want every ounce of jam a motor can produce and will put in sleeves and all sorts of stuff to make sure that engine can push some serious power i.e 1,000+. there’s also those who want to make the power a bit safer than before but don’t want to bust open a loan and sell their first kid to do it, doesn’t mean you can’t make serious power on your build though.
im the person who is trying to bridge the gap in between that, and try to influence those who want a really fast street car that they never have to worry about loading up with some jam, and also can drive the car everyday with stock like drivability. my car is currently making 600whp and 470wtq, limited by my turbo; the car is the most fun it’s ever been and I’m not scared of anything blowing up or overheating. the CSS has stayed cooler than my experience with sleeves, and has really beefed out the engine and made it almost like a robust aluminum closed deck 4G63. i couldn’t have asked more out of this engine, it’s an ultimate street car that i’m not afraid to harm anything. my build specs were stated up above and as far as the “limit” on what this build can do i’ve heard from multiple reliable sources that there are some CSS evo X’s floating around at 850-950whp and driving their cars to the track and back home. do i think this is a replacement for sleeves? no. however do i think it is better ? definitely.
this is for the person who wants to strike the balance of reliability on the street and still want to take names at the track. i’ve made the ultimate street engine, quiet in operation and strong in its function. if you guys have anymore questions feel free to pop a reply!
 

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Motor is in car!! now that i’ve gotten to spend some time with it and break it in here are my thoughts. so for me i think there are two schools of thought with building a motor, there are those who want every ounce of jam a motor can produce and will put in sleeves and all sorts of stuff to make sure that engine can push some serious power i.e 1,000+. there’s also those who want to make the power a bit safer than before but don’t want to bust open a loan and sell their first kid to do it, doesn’t mean you can’t make serious power on your build though.
im the person who is trying to bridge the gap in between that, and try to influence those who want a really fast street car that they never have to worry about loading up with some jam, and also can drive the car everyday with stock like drivability. my car is currently making 600whp and 470wtq, limited by my turbo; the car is the most fun it’s ever been and I’m not scared of anything blowing up or overheating. the CSS has stayed cooler than my experience with sleeves, and has really beefed out the engine and made it almost like a robust aluminum closed deck 4G63. i couldn’t have asked more out of this engine, it’s an ultimate street car that i’m not afraid to harm anything. my build specs were stated up above and as far as the “limit” on what this build can do i’ve heard from multiple reliable sources that there are some CSS evo X’s floating around at 850-950whp and driving their cars to the track and back home. do i think this is a replacement for sleeves? no. however do i think it is better ? definitely.
this is for the person who wants to strike the balance of reliability on the street and still want to take names at the track. i’ve made the ultimate street engine, quiet in operation and strong in its function. if you guys have anymore questions feel free to pop a reply!
So where do I start if I want to build engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So where do I start if I want to build engine?
i would go ahead and source a used block, a bare block would be best. i would send it over with all the instructions provided by the CNCWERX/CSS website and from there let jeff (the owner) do the rest. you can customize your specs the way you want it done, and depending on that the price will be a little different. i payed the one it will ever be since i got EVERYTHING under the sun that they offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you going to be doing weight savings. In the near future
yes i will be, i have done some already with suspension, the engine is lighter now as well with all the forged components and the wheels i’m running (rays gram light 57DR’s)
i will be getting a carbon fiber do luck trunk as well and a lighter exhaust. looking into potentially getting a carbon fiber hood and then painting it body color.
 

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I went with a similar setup from MAPerformance. I purchased the longblock setup from them with basically the same internals and head minus the valves and mivec delete. Just dropped it in this weekend. I still have to button up the lines and harness. Went with Mhi18k, Walbro 455 and id1300’s. I’m aiming for 500/500 on e85. Time will tell, but it seems within reach. Best of luck on your build! I pulled a running long block with low compression on #3, if anyone knows of anyone looking.
 

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I went with a similar setup from MAPerformance. I purchased the longblock setup from them with basically the same internals and head minus the valves and mivec delete. Just dropped it in this weekend. I still have to button up the lines and harness. Went with Mhi18k, Walbro 455 and id1300’s. I’m aiming for 500/500 on e85. Time will tell, but it seems within reach. Best of luck on your build! I pulled a running long block with low compression on #3, if anyone knows of anyone looking.
Still got that engine?
 
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