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Dp heat shield is tearing me apart the 12mm I cannot get to it! Also white line front sway bar center rear engine mount is a pain in the rear! Another bolt 14mm that is nearly impossible to remove. I’ve bought so many tools.. any tips? Thanks
 

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Dp heat shield is tearing me apart the 12mm I cannot get to it! Also white line front sway bar center rear engine mount is a pain in the rear! Another bolt 14mm that is nearly impossible to remove. I’ve bought so many tools.. any tips? Thanks
Remove the heat shield. The rear mount is a complete PITA. I BARELY got it out when I pulled my trans out, I'm under the impression its about twelve thousand times easier if you lower the subframe.

I'm almost positive you will need to do that to pull the sway bar anyway.
 

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I did rear mount replacement before. Trick is to remove the aluminum bracked on the engine block before pulling the mount via top.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dp heat shield is tearing me apart the 12mm I cannot get to it! Also white line front sway bar center rear engine mount is a pain in the rear! Another bolt 14mm that is nearly impossible to remove. I’ve bought so many tools.. any tips? Thanks
Remove the heat shield. The rear mount is a complete PITA. I BARELY got it out when I pulled my trans out, I'm under the impression its about twelve thousand times easier if you lower the subframe.

I'm almost positive you will need to do that to pull the sway bar anyway.

Thanks for the advice, I had a longtime mobile mechanic come and show me how to interlock two wrenches to get more leverage over stubborn bolts. Was it ever a PITA...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dp heat shield is tearing me apart the 12mm I cannot get to it! Also white line front sway bar center rear engine mount is a pain in the rear! Another bolt 14mm that is nearly impossible to remove. I’ve bought so many tools.. any tips? Thanks
Remove the heat shield. The rear mount is a complete PITA. I BARELY got it out when I pulled my trans out, I'm under the impression its about twelve thousand times easier if you lower the subframe.

I'm almost positive you will need to do that to pull the sway bar anyway.
I did rear mount replacement before. Trick is to remove the aluminum bracked on the engine block before pulling the mount via top.
Do I need an access port in order to go get a tune ? Or can I hold off on the access port?

I just have tubulars manifold, ets DP high flow cat, and a borla catback. I’ll be installing these as they arrive 👽 Anyone from bay area??
 

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For tune you need Tactrix cable, AFR and boost gauges. Skip on AP, it's more expensive and not better than Tactrix in any way.

You can skip tune for now, but stay away from full boost. At this point you have no idea how much knock you have. Generally tune includes a knock sensor output being wired to your CEL light and when it knocks you can see it blinking on the dash. Without tune, you would not know about such an event and can blow up your engine.

In short, better to get a tune or take it gentle until you have money for tune.
 

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I did rear mount replacement before. Trick is to remove the aluminum bracked on the engine block before pulling the mount via top.
How did you get the trans mount off the trans? Both those bolts are damn near blind holes when its all assembled and in the car.
 
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