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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Long story short, I bought my first Evo back in June (2008 GSR, 93,xxx miles now, previous repo, rescued from a crappy car lot halfway across the country), and have already had to replace the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, brake booster, master cylinder, tires, and windshield, so I'm broke as hell right now. Also had diff fluid changed when I got the new clutch. I was already planning to replace the CV joints soon, as they're starting to leak grease from the boots, and I get the tell-tale knocking on tight, low-speed cornering, but I think something else may be broken as well... While turning left in a parking lot, I romped on it a bit (nothing too heavy), and it started making a loud "ka-THINK" sound, accompanied by a feeling of binding in the drivetrain. :( When the car's in neutral or the clutch is disengaged, it rolls smooth just fine, but when putting any power to it, going either direction, I can feel pressure build up in the drivetrain, slowing the car, then it releases with the loud "ka-THINK" noise, and the car rolls properly for a second before it happens again. The sound seems to be coming from the middle area of the car (about halfway down the front doors, if you're listening close from the outside). There is no visible damage from under the car (aside from the leaking grease from the CVs), and the joints on the driveshaft appear to be fully intact. Has anyone encountered this before? Did I break something in one of the diffs, or is one of my CVs just absolutely toast? I'm hoping to get it up in the air tomorrow and see if I can track it down further, but any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
 

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I'd wait to get it in the air. And spin the tires to see if u can replicate the sound.


But if the sound is coming from middle of the car I could only think of the center diff..

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got the back end up a couple days ago, and there's definitely something keeping the rear wheels from spinning properly. At first, the driveshaft spun when I rotated a wheel, but then it stopped rotating. Turning vs. going straight seems to make no difference. I'm thinking it might be the rear diff, as it sounds a lot like these videos, only much more consistent (binds and clangs once every few feet, exactly the same every time, forward or back) :
youtube. com/watch?v=dJlm7dfPH5Y
youtube. com/watch?v=9HC43wMSpVc

Also, I was astounded that it hasn't triggered any warning lights, considering how violent it sounds and feels...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
But if the sound is coming from middle of the car I could only think of the center diff..
Maybe the rear is putting the pressure back on the driveshaft, causing the clang to emanate throughout the car?

Keeping my fingers crossed that it's not the center diff, I REALLY can't afford that right now...
 

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If its legit the center of the car, you could have a bad CV joint in the drive shaft. It would be the Rzeppa joint, the one that isn't a U-Joint
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Update:
Car is up on jacks, Rzeppa and u-joints on driveshaft seem fine, binding still occurring under no load, can feel roughness when rotating any of the wheels by hand, no difference after turning ASC off or pulling AYC fuse
Rear diff does seem to thump around a little as the binding happens (just enough movement to be visible), but I'm doubtful that a loose rear diff could be felt even through the front wheels...
 

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If it's not obvious, I guess next you'll have to disconnect/unbolt the driveshaft and narrow it down to the front/center or rear. I went through this on my winter beater and it turned out to be a combination of the rzeppa type joint and a toasted rear diff bushing but it sounds like you might have something else going on.

I know you had this done recently, but you could always change the transmission and differential fluids and see what they look like. If one of them comes out full of metal or is dry, you'll know for sure. If your broke AF you can use a VERY clean container to catch your fluid and reuse it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the tips, guys. I put it in gear a few times while it was up on jacks yesterday, and at one point the front wheels were spinning smoothly, but the back wheels were standing still until my buddy jiggled one of them, then all four spun and the clanging resumed, so I'm guessing it has to be either the center or rear diff. I'll definitely try the disconnected driveshaft trick as soon as I can get back after it, that'd be way cheaper/easier than having to refill diffs again (not that it'll mean much if I have to get a diff rebuilt anyways, but at least I wouldn't have to drain both lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, I'm gonna go ahead and admit that I'm in way over my head here...
Does anyone know a decent shop in the Lawrence/Kansas City area that could fix my drivetrain without fucking it up, or is it time to call Jack's?
Either way, my credit score's about to be screwed hahaha
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Lol That's the real kicker - I've had it sideways a couple times since I got it, but I was barely even playing when it broke, maybe half-throttle at 2/3rds-left turn? I can tell this car's been abused by the previous owner(s), though, and the dealer that replaced the clutch that went out right after I bought it (since I picked up the car 1k mi from home, and it went out 20 min from the used car lot) said the diffs were leaking like crazy, and that they "fixed" that as well... :slaphead:
 

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Lol That's the real kicker - I've had it sideways a couple times since I got it, but I was barely even playing when it broke, maybe half-throttle at 2/3rds-left turn? I can tell this car's been abused by the previous owner(s), though, and the dealer that replaced the clutch that went out right after I bought it (since I picked up the car 1k mi from home, and it went out 20 min from the used car lot) said the diffs were leaking like crazy, and that they "fixed" that as well... :slaphead:
If you could bring it to me, I could fix it.

You can remove the 4 bolts on that shiny cover plate on the center diff and look at your gears that way.

The way the tires should rotate (off the ground, car off, neutral)

Front - front (free spin) - One wheel should rotate, other side should be reversed. Rear tires will not rotate at all
Front - front (tire held) - when one wheel is held in place, and the other rotated, the rear tires should spin

Rear (either side) - When one tire is spun, the front two should spin. The opposite side may spin as well (in my case it usually doesn't, or will spin very little). It may be harder to turn the rears VS the fronts, especially depending on your fluids in the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update:
Drained rear diff - fluids looked great, still translucent with some color to them
Drained transfer case - gear oil was blacker than the blackest black times infinity, and had a bunch of filings stuck to drain plug - surprising, considering it was filled in June. Dealership also appears to have "manufactured" a t-case fill plug from some all-thread and a nut at that point (said it was leaking terribly when I took it in for a new clutch).

Pulling transfer case and transmission to send to Jack's to be rebuilt, as well as ordering urethane bushings for the rear diff and redoing the CV joints. Will update if all this does not solve the issue. Thanks again for the help, guys!
 

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Update:
Drained rear diff - fluids looked great, still translucent with some color to them
Drained transfer case - gear oil was blacker than the blackest black times infinity, and had a bunch of filings stuck to drain plug - surprising, considering it was filled in June. Dealership also appears to have "manufactured" a t-case fill plug from some all-thread and a nut at that point (said it was leaking terribly when I took it in for a new clutch).

Pulling transfer case and transmission to send to Jack's to be rebuilt, as well as ordering urethane bushings for the rear diff and redoing the CV joints. Will update if all this does not solve the issue. Thanks again for the help, guys!
Thats disgusting.

FWIW, the fill plug should be this here



16x1.5mm Drain plug
 

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Indeed, it was quite disgusting, and smelled like rotting fish...
Thank you, sir. If Jack's doesn't throw a new one in there for me, that'll be a handy link! :)
Its not the EXACT plug that came out of it, but it should all be the same dimensionally. It may be a MM or so shorter on the threaded end, but otherwise should not cause any issue.
 
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