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Bumping an old thread as I’m about to add in a second pump to my Radium dual hanger and full radium setup. I’m also currently running the tephra v3 mod.

I guess I’m missing something. I don’t see where this can work as having the secondary pump shut off until a certain load is reached. It sounds like a great idea but I guess I’m missing something.
Just skimming through, it appears as though they have the 'WOT" 9-12v system switch the pump. This is otherwise easily obtainable through a hobbs switch, as load is going to be dependent on boost pressure. Most times I see people switch them on at 5-10 lbs for the secondary pump.
 

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Yeah I thought this was an attempt to do so without the Hobbs switch since some say it’s unreliable.

Then there was talk about a load table maxing out at 160.

I guess I also don’t really understand the high and low voltages for the fuel pump

Edit/update:
I had to really dumb it down for myself and do some research since this post kinda assumes you know a few things about the fuel system and electrical in general.
I’ve pretty much figured it out, the only problem is my rom 58010005 doesn’t have the fuel pump table like everyone else’s. I’m getting that from Rickerman hopefully in a couple days.
 

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I'm also bumping this old thread because it seems the most relevant to something I'm planning to do for wiring a single surge pump without having to worry about high fuel pressure / modifying the return (hopefully).

I'm looking at using a fuel pump controller, such as the Aeromotive PWM setup. Then, instead of running a wire to the front of the car for the tach signal to use the full (variable) functionality of the PWM, I'm just going to use the controller's "override" function in and convert the fancy controller into a low/high setup like the OEM circuit. To do this, I'm planning to have a standard relay setup with a 11V Zener diode that will give the 'override' circuit of the controller a ground signal when the OEM fuel pump feed exceeds the Zener's 11V requirement. While this is a basic approach to using the controller, I like the idea of confining all of the work (lines, wiring, etc.) to the rear of the car, minimizing wiring taps (1), am not overly concerned about fuel temps, and enjoyed reading through some of the latest solutions for the fuel system while trying to come up with something for me.

Feedback is appreciated.
 

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I didn't realize that the Zener drops the voltage that is passed (doh!). Also, the OEM Pump voltage is fairly variable, even when targeting "9V".
When I combined that with how a relay will trip at ~80% of rated voltage but not release till something like 10%, and I've decided to abandon this approach. I have an Aeromotive fuel pump controller though. I was trying to use it's override feature with some of the tips posted in here, but instead I'll be using a CAN signal modifier than will give me RPM and will be fed to the fuel pump controller. It'll work better that my original override approach, but it won't be contained to only the trunk with the wiring/install.
 

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So there are several devices that can do what I mentioned above. Some of them include the CANM8, CarTek, and the Sailes CAN reader. There’s more and you could even design your own.

Ultimately I went with CANM8, as I wanted diagnostics (led status) and the CarTek ties up the OBD2 port, which means it’s fighting with the laptop for data. Research OBD2 splitters if you’re curious what I mean by this.


Eventually I’ll get around to tapping in fuel pressure sensors to different parts of the system, but for now it’s doing well.
 

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I don't know if this helps, but I'm currently testing a patch that uses the second (passive) WG solenoid wiring to energize a secondary fuel pump (via a relay). It uses a Load vs RPM table (just like the low/high voltage for the first pump) to activate.
 

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That’s pretty smart since that’s a pulse modulator and would eliminate the need for the aftermarket fuel pump controller.

I think I’m all set at this point. For me, the CANM8 is working well
 
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