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I am not looking to reinvent the wheel, so I am looking for those who have done this. I have picked up an MR and plan on making it an HPDE car for friends, family, and sometimes myself. Might do some TT3/4 with it, not sure. My budget is $2000 for the entire suspension. New OEM with swift springs? Please nobody tell me to buy Megan racing coilovers. I will be running Proxes RR tires on this, it will not be a street car, and it will have a cage. Looking to stick with the stock brake calipers, unless they are horrible.

School me on this car. Tell me what I need to know. Thanks!
 

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First of all your budget is to small. My MR is an excellent track car, but it took a lot of effort to get there. First of all the stock suspension is to soft and to tall. Coil over are a requirement. I went with Ohlins. There are others in the same class, but the Ohlins have good road manners also. Second is your need camber plates. The stock adjustment won't give you enough front camber for the track. Again add the whileline offset bushing for front caster. It really helps initial turn-in. The brakes will be fine, just gNow I caet a good set of pad and fresh quality fluid. You'll also need rear adjustable arms to adjust the rear camber to a reasonable value. I run 1.5 degrees front camber and 1.0 degrees rear camber on the rear for street driving and 2.75 degrees front and 2.0 degrees rear on the rear. Please don't take these values as an absolute, I picked them using my tire pyrometer. I also run 10.5" wide wheels with 275 tires. I rolled my fenders to accommodate the wider wheels. Not necessary but and extra bit, change the drop links to adjustable ones to take out any binding or preload in the sway bars. Last but not least for the suspension is corner balance. This really does make a big difference. Now to the Achilles heel of the MR, At a minimum replace the radiator with a better one, I used the larger mitsumoto. Heated sump pan for the SST and a larger cooler. Oil temp for both the SST and engine are important to monitor. Stock depending on how you drive the car will either exhibit a lot of push or snap TTO or both. My car now it very neutral and a Joy to drive. This is a road race setup and if you are look for an autocross setup ignore everything I said. Just to reiterate without any cooling upgrades I could only run my car 10-15 minutes at a time on the track before the SST would overheat. I would pull off when the SST was at 240 or the engine oil was at 260. Now I can run an hour in 100 degree ambient and my engine oil will be between 230 & 240 and my SST will be in the same range. I run Michelin PSS, with R888 you'll probably need more camber unless you swap all the suspension mounting bushing over to urethane bushings. The R888 are a really good track tire, just too noisy for the street.
 
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