Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys I need you help!

I have a 08 Evo X, Full ETS bolt-ons (includes everything from the FMIC to the intake, downpipe exhaust... etc.), CBRD BBX Turbo upgrade, ID1000 CC Fuel Injectors, Cogsworth 272 Cams, Walbro 255lph.

Basically, one of the fuel injectors had a bad connection with the mating plug to the factory harness. I didn't know this was the problem and ran the car home (I live an hour away from work). When I got home I looked over the motor and noticed the plug was loose. Once I reconnected it I also zip tied them together to prevent them from diconnecting.

All tooooo late. Yesterday, I went out of town and when I returned I noticed my car smoking!! The Dip Stick had literrally popped out and oil was spewing all over my engine bay plus oil was leaking all over my downpipe... almost like it was coming out of the downpipe. I looked under the car and oil everywhere. I opened the oil cap and white smoke, lots of it.

The car was practically out of oil. I added oil and turned the motor back on to ensure that the block didn't freeze or anything. The motor did turn and the car does stay on fine.... however, I can tell that the compression is screwed. When I was on the way home I noticed it becuase when I revved up the car the car didn't want to go... kinda like it ran out of steam or was choking!!! When I got home and saw all that oil I put 2 and 2 together. I'm thinking that when the cylinder didn't get fuel from the faulty plug on the injector the hour ride back home basically fried a piston or ring around it. leading to the loss of compression, the excess pressure in the bottom block, the dip stick shooting up and out at boost, and the oil all over the place. In short..... I have to get the car's motor redone.

Money is always an issue. But since the shop would have to basically change out a piston or rings around the piston.... I thought... would it not be better to just build up the motor. I work on commission and can easily knock out 10 - 15k in two months for a fully built motor. Howver what I'd like to know is.... WHAT WOULD YOU DO?

I just put money down and ordered the new FP-Black for the Evo X. I heard it spools better with a 2.2 or 2.3 motor. I saw that Cogsworth makes a 2.2 stroker kit and they also have a nice head that has been reworked. Costs about 11k plus install. I've also seen Burcher Racings entire new build with the BR JE Pistons they created for our Evo X's... it costs about 9k. I'm just not sure where to go. What to upgrade... Are there any companies that you guys trust or don't trust for engine builds. i.e. pistons, rods, vavles... etc. I'm asking because in order to push the FP-Black to its limits I need to raise boost... which should be preferrably done with a built motor. I want a good solid rebuild, but I don't want to have to pay 12k for it if there are options that are proven out there that may only cost me 8k.... so WHAT WOULD YOU DO?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
333 Posts
I just ordered the fp black as well. I'm just gonna have Sean Ivey build my motor I think. P
I'm also stuck on what to do lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,273 Posts
dang dude, that sucks. first thing i'd do is consider the source of the problem. did you buy the injectors and install them yourself? or did you get them from a shop and paid them to do the install? If so, I'd talk to them and see if you can't get a discount on some of the labor. Or at least let you use their facilities and get some guidance if you're capable of doing it yourself. If you bought the injectors yourself but paid a shop to install, then it's gonna be a battle between the shop (who'll claim manufacturer defect) and the manufacturer (who'll claim damage during install) and you'll likely be SOL. (edit: i'm assuming the connection fault was in the plug construction. if it was just loose and the clips were in good shape, then it's all on whoever did the install).

I've always been of the opinion that if I'm going to be performing any significant job that has high overhead cost, either on my own or by paying someone else, that the best way to get the most out of your time/money is to improve as much as reasonably possible while everything's torn apart. Studs, valve springs, rods, pistons, and crank are pretty obvious.... it all depends how deep your pockets are and how much time you can let the car sit. Paying the same labor twice is never fun

A quote from my old man: do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i already have most of the parts in the package...


Sounds nice except for it has a bunch of stuff that I already have which would double my cost. For example, I already have the FP-Black (paid for four days ago before I found out about the problems.) I also already have the Exedy Twin Disc HD clutch, I installed a custom Evo 9 clutch master cylinder, I already have the exhaust, FMIC, UICP, LICP, MBC, Cams, and the same ID1000 that they are using in the AMS 900x package. Thanks for the reply though...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
Since you have a full ETS setup, why don't you try contacting them for suggestions? I'm sure they have a wealth of knowledge, considering they have a shop X too, that will help you get up and running with the best combination of parts for the money in the most reliable way you want.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
good idea..

Since you have a full ETS setup, why don't you try contacting them for suggestions? I'm sure they have a wealth of knowledge, considering they have a shop X too, that will help you get up and running with the best combination of parts for the money in the most reliable way you want.

I'll call them today, I didn't know they had engine builds. I knew they have some nice turbo kits but since I kinda already bought the FP-Black.... I didn't really want to buy another T3 kit... I'll post the results after wards.

Thanks!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
I don't think they do builds either, but I'm sure they can steer you towards the right direction considering they run a built motor too on their 9-sec X.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
dang dude, that sucks. first thing i'd do is consider the source of the problem. did you buy the injectors and install them yourself? or did you get them from a shop and paid them to do the install? If so, I'd talk to them and see if you can't get a discount on some of the labor. Or at least let you use their facilities and get some guidance if you're capable of doing it yourself. If you bought the injectors yourself but paid a shop to install, then it's gonna be a battle between the shop (who'll claim manufacturer defect) and the manufacturer (who'll claim damage during install) and you'll likely be SOL. (edit: i'm assuming the connection fault was in the plug construction. if it was just loose and the clips were in good shape, then it's all on whoever did the install).

I've always been of the opinion that if I'm going to be performing any significant job that has high overhead cost, either on my own or by paying someone else, that the best way to get the most out of your time/money is to improve as much as reasonably possible while everything's torn apart. Studs, valve springs, rods, pistons, and crank are pretty obvious.... it all depends how deep your pockets are and how much time you can let the car sit. Paying the same labor twice is never fun

A quote from my old man: do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again

Yeah, doing it right the first time is kinda what I was thinking... That's why cost and time in shop isn't a factor right now. But that doesn't mean I'm willing to spend money on something that isn't worth it just becuase of brand recognition. This is technically my daily driver so I want to make sure that if i drop 10k into it..... that I do it right. Any suggestions on which copmanies to use for stroker kits or piston/rod combo's etc.

The shop that installed the injectors is in NY. I live in Florida. Funny thing I bought them online. Go figure. No one claims responsibility ( I already tried that... lol). So i'm on my own.
 

·
Resting in Peace
Joined
·
7,218 Posts
A lot of us have gone this path so I'm definitely sympathetic. Based on the experiences of people that I know, it tends to take 6 months to get these kind of things done by a good shop (they're always too busy).

I'd personally go with Buschur if I were doing a whole motor. Give them a call and figure out what the cost difference would be between shipping them your whole car or having them work with a shop in FL for the swap. They could probably recommend a FL shop to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Awesome help

I don't think they do builds either, but I'm sure they can steer you towards the right direction considering they run a built motor too on their 9-sec X.

I called ETS. There shop Evo X that currently makes 806whp with over 40lbs og boost uses Cogsworth Pistons, Rings, Rods, Bearing, Headgasket, and the ETS Vavletrain Kit, plus ARP Headstuds..... We are talking about $3150 plus labor and I'll be able to do the FP-Black that I bought with higher boost without a problem!!! I guess this sounds like the way to go.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,756 Posts
well, considering winter is approaching, I don't think the shops will be as busy in the near future. Shep does good work on motor builds too. I've already been slapped on my hand for posting a link to their site (non vendor), so I'll refrain this time.

But its good that cash is not as big a constraint for you as it is for some others. I wouldn't worry about finding a good shop and getting a kick ass build done on time.

Good luck.
 

·
High Mileage X-phile
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
A lot of us have gone this path so I'm definitely sympathetic. Based on the experiences of people that I know, it tends to take 6 months to get these kind of things done by a good shop (they're always too busy).

I'd personally go with Buschur if I were doing a whole motor. Give them a call and figure out what the cost difference would be between shipping them your whole car or having them work with a shop in FL for the swap. They could probably recommend a FL shop to you.
That is just plain ridiculous. I can not believe it takes that long. Is this shipping the motor out or something? Better be doing a 'across America road trip' as yes a motor rebuild does take a long time but 6 months? I think the shops are either overloading them selves or really taking their sweet as time. 1 hour a day? If that...
 

·
Resting in Peace
Joined
·
7,218 Posts
I think the shops are either overloading them selves or really taking their sweet as time. 1 hour a day? If that...
Many of the performance shops are 2-man shops. They don't turn down work and instead just line up cars. In the Spring the shop that built my motor had up to 30 cars in various states of being worked on.

I have trouble faulting them because work can get really slow in the Winter and then they'd have to lay people off. Perhaps shops on the coasts or down south don't have the same issues.
 

·
High Mileage X-phile
Joined
·
2,942 Posts
I see your logic but that is also where there is an issue. YOU can see that work goes up and down depending on the season. Why not save the cash reverses for the slower season instead of lining up too many projects just so you have work for a later time? Who cares if they are working on 30 cars in one month...not all get finished and they don't get any monetary gains. IDK so many factors. But I would not spend $5000+ for a car to be down 6 months. Nope.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,107 Posts
I see your logic but that is also where there is an issue. YOU can see that work goes up and down depending on the season. Why not save the cash reverses for the slower season instead of lining up too many projects just so you have work for a later time? Who cares if they are working on 30 cars in one month...not all get finished and they don't get any monetary gains. IDK so many factors. But I would not spend $5000+ for a car to be down 6 months. Nope.
Quality work is worth the wait imo...my car has been down since may 1st (so 4.5 months so far), Lomker and I use the same shop.

It really sucks but the nice thing is you spread out the money over that time and it is easier spending 10k, lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
well, considering winter is approaching, I don't think the shops will be as busy in the near future. Shep does good work on motor builds too. I've already been slapped on my hand for posting a link to their site (non vendor), so I'll refrain this time.

But its good that cash is not as big a constraint for you as it is for some others. I wouldn't worry about finding a good shop and getting a kick ass build done on time.

Good luck.
Actually, I called my local shop and he suggested another route. he suggested Buschur Racings short block and a new Valve Spring and Retainer Kit job plus head studs..... Either way, he figured it would be cheaper since Buschur sends back the motor already assembeled as opposed to buying the individual pistons, bearings, rods... etc. and having to pay my shop money to assemble it and put the motor back in the car. So labor/machine'ing time gets cut down drastically. Sounds like a plus to me. He assured me that pump with a built motorw would probably hit 500+whp on a Dynojet and 600+whp on E85!! Now I almost feel fortunate to have cracked a piston/ring... LOL!!

I see your logic but that is also where there is an issue. YOU can see that work goes up and down depending on the season. Why not save the cash reverses for the slower season instead of lining up too many projects just so you have work for a later time? Who cares if they are working on 30 cars in one month...not all get finished and they don't get any monetary gains. IDK so many factors. But I would not spend $5000+ for a car to be down 6 months. Nope.
A shops gotta do what a shops gotta to make ends meat. I called my shop and they told me that the entire new build I'm considering will take a little over 1 month to complete. This is becuase I am going to go with Buschur Racings Short Block upgrade which takes 3 weeks just between ship time and build time to and from Buschur.

Quality work is worth the wait imo...my car has been down since may 1st (so 4.5 months so far), Lomker and I use the same shop.

It really sucks but the nice thing is you spread out the money over that time and it is easier spending 10k, lol.
True. I'm willing to wait it out if my car comes back well worked. Also, the money thing is spot on. If your going to spend 10k in a new build.... might as well stretch it out if you can. Most shops only charge a deposit and then full payment at end of build.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top