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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimer: This thread features REAL dyno results. VD fanboi's look elsewhere.

Well it has officially been one year since I converted my daily driven Evo X GSR to flex fuel, it has been the best thing I've done to my Evo X since owning it. About a month ago, I started to notice some strange AFR's on my AEM wideband. The sensor was reading lean at idle, cruise, and while in boost. I started to think it was a fuel issue until I pulled the heat shield off of my stock manifold and I saw the infamous 4B11 cracked manifold. At first I was irritated until I remembered I had a shiny new MAP cast manifold sitting on my shelf that was waiting to be installed. I guess I found my reason. Well sitting right next to the MAP manifold was a shiny new FP MHI-18k :D Figured if I'm going to be pulling the manifold out I mind as well swap the turbo as well. To help with the added boost, I ditched the stock DV for a TiAL QR with a 6psi spring. To ensure the MAF sensor would not get maxed out at 5 volts, I upgraded the stock 2.5" MAF housing to the ETS 3.5" MAF adapter (thanks for recommending this Razorlab). Lastly, I decided to switch the DW300c fuel pump for an Asnu FP330E fuel pump.

Fast forward to this morning. I arrived at UMS Tuning in Mesa, AZ. My good friend and tuner Tony Szirka was there ready to make some jam. We loaded the car up on his Dynapack and he created a base map for the 18k. So everyone is aware, his Dynpack features the most recent software update and it reads within 1% of our local Dynojet. To recap from the last year, when we tuned it on the Flex Fuel rom last year with the stock turbo/manifold/DV, the car made 360/360 on ACN91 at 26psi, 380/380 on E54 at 28psi, and 405/410 on E85 at 30psi.

Since September of last year, a bill passed stating that Arizona would only get E54 ethanol from now on. Seeing that E54 is the best I can get from the pump, this is what I showed up to the dyno session with. Unfortunately I did not have time to update the entire flex map during my dyno session today due to work obligations, so we only focused on E54 which is what the car is running 99% of the time.

Took about 4 pulls to really get the tune dialed in. On the 5th pull, the car made 430whp and 417wtq at 30psi on E54. I was very pleased with the horsepower number, but the torque made me a little nervous since I've heard plenty of horror stories of 4B11 connecting rods bending over the 400wtq level. Boost came on strong and I was hitting full boost, 30psi, at 3750rpm. For longevity purposes, we decided to turn it back a little bit. On the next pull, the car did 430whp and 400wtq. Boost was spiking to 30psi and falling to 27psi by 7500rpm. The car pulls like a freight train, it feels a lot like my Evo IX with the 71hta. The most impressive thing about this turbo/manifold setup is the powerband after 6000rpm. On the stock turbo, 6000-7500rpm was a downward slope on the powerband. The 18k/MAP manifold keeps climbing and making power all the way to 7500rpm. There is roughly a 100whp difference between the stock turbo and the 18k at 7500rpm. This is the most noticable difference. All in all I lost about 400rpm on the low end of the powerband to gain an additional 100whp up top, I'll take that any day of the week. At the end of the day I am beyond satisifed with this setup and tune. Maybe I'll bring it back some time soon to see what it'll make on E85. Thanks to Forced Performance for the MHI-18k, MAP for the cast manifold, ETS and VRSF for all the bolt-on's, Injector Dynamics for the ID1300's, Razorlab for his wealth of knowledge, and Tony Szirka at UMS Tuning for the amazing tune. I have said this many times before, but the car is officially done.....until I get some cams of course.

2008 Evo X GSR

Stock block/cams (95k miles, never opened long block)
MHI-18k w/ 18psi WGA
MAP cast manifold
MAP 02 dump
TiAL QR w/ 6psi spring
ETS Intake w/ 3.5" MAF adapter
ETS test pipe
ETS V2 Quiet Exhaust
VRSF 4" FMIC
Muse 1 piece UICP
ID1300 injectors
Asnu FP330E fuel pump (not hardwired)
Cobb 3 port EBC
Flex Converter flex fuel kit


Best pulls of the morning:

433whp and 417wtq at 30psi on E54
432whp and 400wtq at 29psi on E54


Notes:

IDC% at 29 - 30psi of boost on E54 at 7500rpm was 68 - 69%
All pulls done in 4th gear
AFR was 11.5 - 11.8
Peak timing on E54 was aroung 17 degrees
Ambient air tempreture was 82 degrees while car was dyno













 

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Discussion Starter #2
Dashed line - stock turbo/manifold
Solid line - FP MHI-18k / MAP manifold

Same boost, both E54. 400rpm loss down low for roughly 100whp gain by 7500rpm.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
You have your QRJ on backwards. ;)

EDIT: Nevermind, just noticed it's a QR, not a QRJ. Carry on, nothing to see here....
Lol, I considered a QRJ but I like the classic look of the TiAL QR better.
 

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Does AZ have strict emissions like CA?
 

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Super nice. I'm going with a very similar mod list so it's nice to see some results.
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Discussion Starter #9
Does AZ have strict emissions like CA?
Not really, I've never had an issue in AZ passing emissions with a test pipe
 

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How did you remove the rear studs off the stock manifold? I'm trying to do that nut to nut trick, but it's really difficult to get that stud to break loose.
 

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How did you remove the rear studs off the stock manifold? I'm trying to do that nut to nut trick, but it's really difficult to get that stud to break loose.
Hose them down with penetrating oil. Let it soak in over night. Hit it multiple times through the night. Nut trick worked for me. I was surprised how easily they came out, but my whip is only at 17k.
 

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I bought metric stud remover but even then it was a bitch to get them off
Which stud remover did you get? Did you use the 10mm one? I'm afraid of getting one that's too thick to fit onto the stud
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Which stud remover did you get? Did you use the 10mm one? I'm afraid of getting one that's too thick to fit onto the stud
Are you taking about the studs in the turbine housing or top corner studs that secure the manifold to the cylinder head?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
also, what wheels are those :) thanks
Volk ZE40 reps, they're Ambit RT8's. I had real volks on my last DD and they got tore up after 4 years of daily use. I told myself I would only use real wheels for the race car and just use reps for the street
 

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Are you taking about the studs in the turbine housing or top corner studs that secure the manifold to the cylinder head?
Yes, studs in the turbine housing. I have a bad gut feeling that I will have to get under the car and remove the turbo to get the manifold off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes, studs in the turbine housing. I have a bad gut feeling that I will have to get under the car and remove the turbo to get the manifold off.
I removed the forever ago using the double nut technique and a ton of PB blaster. I swapped the studs for two bolts. Made it so much easier to swap this time around
 

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Broke my 10mm stud remover. I have a feeling the studs are not coming out(122,000 miles). On the positive side, I finally removed the OEM exhaust manifold. Had to unbolt the downpipe, and turbo bracket bolts. So I'm forced to remove the turbo in order to have a machine shop remove the studs off the hot side turbine. When unbolting the water line feed from the block, will a bunch of coolant start to pour out? Also how much oil is expected to pour out when unbolting the oil feed from the block?
 
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