[jeremy_almond]

I removed my engine, transmission, and Transfer case. I did not clamp any lines. Supposedly you have to bleed something if so?? Before you bleed though, you have to add fluid. What kind of fluid and where does it go? The service manual does not make sense. When I get my engine/transmission back I'm going to fill my transmission. Im going to fill the Tcase via the servicing port. But what do I have to bleed? And if im having to bleed then surely I have to fill something.

 

[Clipse3GT]

You need MUT III or a special program that Tephra made that intiates the bleed procedure for the AYC. You will probably also get a steering angle code.

 

[grafix143]

^ what he said
I take it to the stealership for that


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app

 

[jeremy_almond]

Yeah, well the stealership is 45 min away, so do I have to trailer? What am I actually bleeding? Because according to the clutch removal you clamp a line, that goes to the back of the car, so what am I bleeding? something back there or the Tcase? Because either way the tcase is empty whether you clamp the line or not.

 

[jeremy_almond]

Also would a local jiffy lube or somewhere like that have a MUT tool?

 

[grafix143]

You can't bleed it just like that
MUT III will be connected to your car OBD and let the pump running while you bleed the Awd system also it will ask you to turn the wheel right then left and it's not 10 mints process .
save your car and take it to stealer ship or an EVO tuner who can crack this pump software and make it run while bleeding normally pro tuners know how to


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app

 

[Clipse3GT]

Tephra made this program to run the AYC bleeding procedure yourself. Contact him and buy it and you can do it from home if you have Tactrix cable following the service manual.

 

[segfault]

You just need to bleed the ACD since your AYC lines in the rear diff remained untouched. Fortunately, the ACD isn't horrible to bleed even w/o tephra's program (though I highly recommend buying it). You'll need two people for this.

Fluid: Diamond ATF SP III
Location: The reservoir in your trunk on the right

1) Get the car on jack stands so that someone can slide underneath.
2) Turn the car on and center the steering wheel
3) Person underneath cracks the ACD bleeding valve open
4) Driver turns the steering wheel to the left slowly til it locks.
5) Person below should watch for fluids/air to come out. When driver is done cranking wheel, person below closes valve
6) Driver centers wheel
7) Person below cracks the valve open
8) Driver turns wheel all the way to the right
9) Person below watches for fluids/air; tightens valve when driver is at full lock.

Rinse and repeat until no air comes out. And make sure your reservoir doesn't go empty.

 

[Clipse3GT]

You just need to bleed the ACD since your AYC lines in the rear diff remained untouched. Fortunately, the ACD isn't horrible to bleed even w/o tephra's program (though I highly recommend buying it). You'll need two people for this.

Fluid: Diamond ATF SP III
Location: The reservoir in your trunk on the right

1) Get the car on wheel ramps or jack stands so that someone can slide underneath
2) Turn the car on and center the steering wheel
3) Person underneath cracks the ACD bleeding valve open
4) Driver turns the steering wheel to the left slowly til it locks.
5) Person below should watch for fluids/air to come out. When driver is done cranking wheel, person below closes valve
6) Driver centers wheel
7) Person below cracks the valve open
8) Driver turns wheel all the way to the right
9) Person below watches for fluids/air; tightens valve when driver is at full lock.

Rinse and repeat until no air comes out. And make sure your reservoir doesn't go empty.

Yes this is the other way to do it.

The replacement for Diamond ATF III is:

Redline D4 ATF (which is what I use)

 

[SiliconTek]

You just need to bleed the ACD since your AYC lines in the rear diff remained untouched. Fortunately, the ACD isn't horrible to bleed even w/o tephra's program (though I highly recommend buying it). You'll need two people for this.

Fluid: Diamond ATF SP III
Location: The reservoir in your trunk on the right

1) Get the car on jack stands so that someone can slide underneath.
2) Turn the car on and center the steering wheel
3) Person underneath cracks the ACD bleeding valve open
4) Driver turns the steering wheel to the left slowly til it locks.
5) Person below should watch for fluids/air to come out. When driver is done cranking wheel, person below closes valve
6) Driver centers wheel
7) Person below cracks the valve open
8) Driver turns wheel all the way to the right
9) Person below watches for fluids/air; tightens valve when driver is at full lock.

Rinse and repeat until no air comes out. And make sure your reservoir doesn't go empty.

:yeahthat:

 

[discogodfather]

^Only thing I question about this process described is the turning of the steering wheel. I was under the impression it's not necessary with the ACD. The ACD is a single line with a proportioning valve, and when you crank the engine it turns the pump on to fill the accumulator on the "hydraulic unit". The ACD proportioning valve cycles right after startup and fluid comes out if the bleeder is open, just do it a few times and your golden.

I used a small clear PVC hose and actually looked for bubbles, they where gone within a few cranks.

If you didn't touch the rear diff at this point your done. Problem comes when you did crack the AYC lines. The reason the above procedure does not work for the AYC is that there is a directional valve added between the two circuits. It is always closed at startup and doesn't actuate until a certain speed and steering angle occur.

Even with the MUT 3 and Tephra's program you need to turn the steering wheel with the car off the ground so as to stimulate the steering sensor.

All the MUT 3 and now Tephra's program does is turn on the directional valve so it flows to either right or left, and you turn the steering wheel to fill in the second part of the equation to get the pressure to the bleeder and let fluid out.

Bleeding the system is all about protecting the pump long term, so even if you have to drive it for 50 miles (avoiding sharp turns and driving like grandma) to get to the dealer is really ok, no serious damage can occur. Serious damage occurs after the dealer touches the car, though.

 

[jeremy_almond]

Thats what I dont get, the ATF fluid, I never drained any, so why do I have to bleed it? Isnt the only fluid I lost, the tranny fluid, and Tcase fluid which is LSD oil?

Im thinking I will bleed the ACD as described, make sure all fluids are full, and drive the 40-50 miles and have them bleed the..... AYC I guess, right?

Maybe change some other fluids too, that I did not, like rear Diff.

How many different fluids/resvoirs are there anyways? I know Tranny, Tcase, rear diff., AYC (is that another one?, ACD (Is that part of Tcase)?

 

[segfault]

When you took out the transfer case, you touched the ACD. The AYC you didn't touch because you didn't remove the rear differential housing. It doesn't hurt to bleed it though.

For fluids you have tranny, transfer, rear differential gear fluid, rear differential AYC gear fluid, and ACD/AYC pump fluid.

Transfer and rear diff use 75w90 severe gear
Transmission uses normal 75w90
AYC gear case uses ATF SPIII. (Draining and filling this does NOT require AYC bleeding)
AYC/ACD pump resevoir uses ATF SPIII

 

[jeremy_almond]

ACD was the Metal line with banjo bolt to top of Tcase im guess? So I do not need to bleed, but is not a bad idea? If so, thats good, Im fine with taking it to Dealership for bleeding, its just that the dealership is 50mi and I really dont want to rent a trailer to tow all the way down and back.

Transfer and rear diff Resvoirs are in those specific components? They just have a servicing port?
Transmission resvoir within it/service port
AYC gear case uses ATF SPIII. (Draining and filling this does NOT require AYC bleeding) Revoir in trunk?
AYC/ACD pump resevoir uses ATF SPIII, Resvoir?

 

[segfault]

Just bleed your ACD with the instructions posted.

Go look at a how to or find the service manual to see how to drain fill the transfer and rear diff reservoirs. That includes the AYC gear case.

the reservoir for the AYC PUMP, not gear case, is the one in the trunk.

 

[discogodfather]

Here is a chart, it's complicated but the ACD clutch paks run in gear oil and the AYC clutch paks run in ATF. It makes everyone's head hurt. There is a tiny bit of ATF in the Transfer case but it's all on the pressure side, meaning it actuates a piston that pushes on the clutch paks which are in gear oil.

The AYC clutch paks run in a bath of ATF, but it is separate from the pressure side of the AYC which is also ATF (on the pump circuit).

 

[jeremy_almond]

Ok, i get it, that helps a lot. Thanks guys.

 

[Snakes709]

Transfer and rear diff use 75w90 severe gear
Transmission uses normal 75w90
AYC gear case uses ATF SPIII. (Draining and filling this does NOT require AYC bleeding)
AYC/ACD pump resevoir uses ATF SPIII

Not sure if i picked up the right/best fluid. When i do my clutch im changing all the fluids at the same time. I got everything else sorted out but for the rear diff i got Redline 75W90 Gear Oil (GL-5) which is the same thing MAP has on their site. Is that the correct oil or do i need "severe gear"

 

[jeremy_almond]

Finally doing this, couple ? though. On the rear diff. on the driver side it has a 17mm plug in front and 14mm on the back, both say gear oil, do you fill those both? On the right side it says atf III below lower plug, above it it has a plug that says oil on it, when you take that top plug out, some kind of oil comes out, what is it? whats it for?
And lastly you drain the ATF and gear oil from the 2 bottom allen plugs?

 

[jeremy_almond]

NM, the rear diff has arrows pointing at bolts, but they are just bracket bolts. They are just indicating what fluids go on each side. So I got it all filled up. The only bleeding required is for the resvoir in the trunk right? And there is a bleeder on the rear diff. and front Tcase/diff for that right?