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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
If you deleted the A/C, the A/C On and A/C Max numbers won't matter correct?

So all I would need to adjust is the A/C Off column?
My guess is that the lack of A/C hardware is probably not going to cause the ECU to ignore the fan behavior since it's more based on the A/C control panel setting, not the A/C in the engine bay. If anything, you can just set these two columns equal to the A/C Off column.
 

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Yes. 90* F today and I happened to take a 15 minute log of my bumper to bumper crawl.
I like the coolant temps hanging between 180-190*F, very nice. :)

Your intake and manifold temps are really up there though! With a heat spacer gasket on the intake manifold and cold air intake you would drop a good 30-40*F on those.
 

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Just tested this:

For 55580006_2010_USDM_SST, modify above code to read: address="5643E"

The table matches up, I'll test tomorrow to confirm for sure. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I like the coolant temps hanging between 180-190*F, very nice. :)

Your intake and manifold temps are really up there though! With a heat spacer gasket on the intake manifold and cold air intake you would drop a good 30-40*F on those.
Thanks for noticing. I threw IAT, MAT in to illustrate how hot things get when the engine isn't experiencing ram air cooling. FWIW, I'm running an AEM intake.
 

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Good deal, I'll log those as well and compare. Currently using an intake maniflold heat spacer, bypassed coolant on TB, and stock airbox with K&N filter with a cold air duct from the front bumper. Will be interesting to see how it compares. :)
 

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15 minute drive

Here is a 15 minute drive where I got on the highway and then lucked out at the 2 stoplights (of course) and never had to stop before arriving to a customer site. I sat in the parking lot with the engine idling for about 5 minutes and the coolant temps never got above 185*F. While my overall cooling system is definitely upgraded, this really keeps the temps very predictable and stable! :D

Ambient Temps: 86*F
Cruise ECT: 180*F - 183*F
Cruise MAT: 97*F - 100*F
Cruise IAT: 88*F - 93*F

Idle 5 min ECT: 181*F
Idle 5 min MAT: 124*F
Idle 5 min IAT: 102*F

Notable "cooling" mods:

  • Mishimoto X-line radiator
  • 20% coolant/80% water/1 bottle Redline water wetter
  • Heat spacer Intake Manifold gasket
  • Throttle body coolant bypassed
  • Hood vents opened up with water deflectors removed
  • Main hood vent to turbo area enlarged
  • Stock airbox with K&N panel filter
  • Air duct feeding stock air intake location from front bumper
  • Back side of head and coolant pipes have heat reflective tape to block radiant heat from turbo
  • ECU triggers fans much sooner

Temps used to climb up to 200-205*F before coming down again on hot days when there was no airflow... this is a welcome change! I included the settings I used for the fans, it's probably about as aggressive as you would want to get given that you don't want to ever have the cooling system drop below what it considers "Fully warmed up" which I think is 176*F. That probably won't be an issue since the thermostat will regulate the temps to about 180*F. With the way I set the tables the Cruise fan will be on in the 0-40 mph range almost constantly so I may move that up to come on at 185*F and shut off again at 180*F.

I'll try and add some data from lots of stop and go in similar temps as well as a track day session to see how the cooling system fairs under stress.
 

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Here is a 15 minute drive where I got on the highway and then lucked out at the 2 stoplights (of course) and never had to stop before arriving to a customer site. I sat in the parking lot with the engine idling for about 5 minutes and the coolant temps never got above 185*F. While my overall cooling system is definitely upgraded, this really keeps the temps very predictable and stable! :D
I've also been looking to do something to reduce MATs. What are you using for an intake manifold spacer?

Also, do you see any difference in gas mileage with the throttle body coolant bypass? I've gone back and forth on that myself. It's there to heat the throttle plate so at part throttle, it heats up the air entering the intake manifold. Hotter air = less dense air = less fuel = better mileage.

And yes, before anyone says anything, I realize we're not driving a Prius, but there's no rule that says we can't have a fast, powerful car that also gets decent mileage.
 

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I've also been looking to do something to reduce MATs. What are you using for an intake manifold spacer?

Also, do you see any difference in gas mileage with the throttle body coolant bypass? I've gone back and forth on that myself. It's there to heat the throttle plate so at part throttle, it heats up the air entering the intake manifold. Hotter air = less dense air = less fuel = better mileage.

And yes, before anyone says anything, I realize we're not driving a Prius, but there's no rule that says we can't have a fast, powerful car that also gets decent mileage.
I'm using the Boomba Racing Heat Spacer Gasket, it has good instructions, longer manifold bolts, and spacers for the brackets so they attach properly.

It's hard to say how much my MPG would be effected with the coolant bypass on the Throttle body. From what I understand it also helps unfreeze the TB sooner in very cold environments but I did this on my last car as well as my Outlander Sport and I never had the throttle plate freeze shut. There is always plenty of radiant heat from the engine bay to heat soak the components anyways so it really seems redundant.

I can see it heating the intake air charge slightly as it enters the intake manifold but I would rather have the denser air charge and more potential horsepower. If I want to save gas I just press the throttle less, I would think the MPG impact is pretty minimal. Another thing to consider is that the MAF sensor and air temp are read as it enters the intake, so heating up the air charge after those readings are made only reduces the air density which means it will run richer in open loop and average the same hovering around 14.7 AFR in closed loop where the O2 sensor is giving feedback to the ECU.

Pretty much the more you can preserve the coldest intake charge the better off you will be as far as getting the coolest air charge into your cylinders. That's why wrapping your Lower IC pipe with heat reflective material is never a bad idea. You also would want to deflect radiant heat from the hot side of the turbo and manifold from hitting your upper IC pipe.
 

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Thanks for the data. Interested in your cooling mods. Can you snap some pictures of some of the things you've done above?
I'll try and grab some shots next time I'm under the hood.
 
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