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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok.. I'm just about to buy an FP Red off a guy from MLR for a good price.

Turbo has done approx 3k miles.

Q1 Will this be ok if I install the turbo without tune at first?

Q2 What sort of power can I expect just by bolting it on?

Q3 Is it safe to do this without upgrading to a 3 port etc..?

My car is around 380-400bhp already, with just test pipe, cat back. induction, and re-map.

Thanks
 

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Q1 Will this be ok if I install the turbo without tune at first?

Yes so long you stay out of boost getting to tuner.. would be advisable to get tune to send you some sort of map for safety.. i would did this personally. Also just let you tuner know that to keep the torque low on the red... you dont want a window on your block :) unless you have a built block.

Q2 What sort of power can I expect just by bolting it on?

Depends on dynos but 400whp+ for sure.. just from searching around and looking at dynos..

Q3 Is it safe to do this without upgrading to a 3 port etc..?

Yes it is .. the 3port is just a better management of boost but still via ECU, it will make you hit boost sooner and hold it more :) but its also dependent on WGA (holding boost more till red line)

I am not a expert or pro just passing on what ive learned from asking questions and reading so other should chime in with more experience :)
 

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Install turbo, take boost line, connect it to wastegate actuator.

Get a 3port, take it to get tuned, install in parking lot and reconnect proper boost reference lines to the wastegate actuator, get tuned.

Oh and somewhere in there before the tune get a fuel pump and 1kcc injectors installed :p

And no, it will absolutely not be ok without a tune...
 

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Install turbo, take boost line, connect it to wastegate actuator.

Get a 3port, take it to get tuned, install in parking lot and reconnect proper boost reference lines to the wastegate actuator, get tuned.

Oh and somewhere in there before the tune get a fuel pump and 1kcc injectors installed :p

And no, it will absolutely not be ok without a tune...
Well if you stay out of boost should be fine... although i would get tuner to send me map before hand :) and yeah +1 on fuel pump and injectors!! :D
 

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Q1 Will this be ok if I install the turbo without tune at first?
I wouldn't advise it, unless you install and drive directly to a tuner without ever going into boost. You don't mention getting it tuned, you can't run it without getting a tune.
Q2 What sort of power can I expect just by bolting it on?
Provided you mean after you tune it, on stock internals people make over 425whp and around 380wtq on stock internals fairly regularly.
Q3 Is it safe to do this without upgrading to a 3 port etc..?
I would get a 3 port, as it is easier to tune with one and they're cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys just the answers I need.

So if i pull the pipe form the solenoid and bypass the T-piece, and connect the pipe directly from the WG straight to the boost port on the side of the up-pipe on top of the turbo, will i be running lower/safer psi?

is this correct? cos i just confused myself writing all that? even though I sort of know what I mean lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
???

must have confused everyone!! lol

i just tried this today on my OEM turbo, and it works, turbo still spools but really low boost, so should be ok driving to the tuner once the red is installed.
 

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See just reading this thread makes me laugh. People are so much against driving with a untuned 3port boost solenoid but yet say you can drive the car with a bigger turbo....seriously?

OP you can hook up the boost solenoid (if you decide to get one) and turbo without a tune. Drive to your tuner (just stay out of boost) and you will be fine. I recently installed pretty much everything in my sig for a few days without a tune. I stayed out of boost and it was fine, even the 3port. The only thing you cant drive with, untuned is the fuel injectors. I have FIC1100cc injectors and i waited until i had the base map to install those.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so what happened?
I didnt buy it in the end because everythings gone wrong on my car again!!! GRRRR!!

Just waxed lots of money on Performance Friction rotors and pads, as my OEM brake disc cracked and chipped!!? :eek: and now my Manifold has cracked and needs replacing.

I am think to get a Full Race MF so I want a good turbo.

I'm also being told I should get an FP black instead of the red, as I want more straight line power/speed and the reds seem a bit common IMO, I like being different.

I don't know which turbo to go for really???

which is the best?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FP Red = stock engine
FP Black = built engine
Yeah, I have plans to forge the engine so installing a red is a bit of an under kill.
 

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if you're goign to build the engine, get the black. You can run the black on very low boost until the engine is done and still make some nice power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
if you're goign to build the engine, get the black. You can run the black on very low boost until the engine is done and still make some nice power.
how low are we talking?
 

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20-25psi, depending on the tune. You can run a shit load of boost but still have low power if your timing and afr are set a certain way. For example im running 29psi right now on my FP Red but im only making ~343whp since my timing and AFR havent really been touched.
 

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how low are we talking?
24-26psi should be good. Here's my graph from the black +cams and stock engine internals. It lasted through track days and such without issue. I probably was running a bit too hot for long term use, but I knew the engine was about to be built (within 6 months).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
24-26psi should be good. Here's my graph from the black +cams and stock engine internals. It lasted through track days and such without issue. I probably was running a bit too hot for long term use, but I knew the engine was about to be built (within 6 months).
nice, are those HP & tq figures at the wheels or crank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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