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How is it possible to achieve this 0-60 on Stage 1.

8K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  86evo 
#1 · (Edited)
More or less recently i upgraded my wheels, tires, and suspension. I'm currently running a Cobb Stage 1 CHFF tune. Prior to any of the upgrades the AP stated my 0-60 with the MR Launch Control was 4.233s. That was during summer time on a first time launch. Now, yesterday i was on a straight tarmac road that had just been paved. Temperature was 1c. New tires and wheel combo reduced rotational mass weight by 16Lbs. New Eibach Pro kit with a stiffer suspension as well... On my first run i got a 4.121s which i was doubtful of because of how cold the tires were... On my second run, while tires were warmed up, i posted a 3.527s... This is shocking because at first i didn't believe it until i slowed down my recording. How was this possible?
 

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#5 ·
Well... The dyno setting has to be done properly.... I've gotten 300-900whp . 900 when I downshited so you can only imagine what the ap got from that. I'm not saying it's wrong, I have video evidence that is clear as day. I'm just wondering whyyy I was able to post that time with no performance mods other than a tune. Was it the suspension, wheel+tire upgrade or just the cold temp. Perhapa both combined. Any thoughts from experience? I'm still shocked.
 
#7 ·
I have and evo x with full boltons +3port and tune, making around 300-320 whp on 25 psi, I don`t believe that it car do under 4 seconds, even a gsr with an upgraded clutch cannot do that without a turbo upgrade, built engine, and larger injectors.
I plan on shedding some unsprung weight, like rims and rotors, sofar I plan on buying a set of Volk CE28N 18x8.5 +30, sofar it seems to be the lightest rim for our cars, and going wider rim and tire will only slow down the car, and I plan on buying a set of girodisc rotor, sofar they seem to be the best option, and I also plan on doingsome gearbox upgrade, anyways I don`t think it will ever be under 4 seconds without a serious build.
 
#8 ·
Okay, once again I'm not asking anyone to believe anything. I have a video which I plan to upload soon to show that it's between the 3-4 second mark. Back to the original question. I'm pushing 300whp. Mr launch control. Brand new Lighter rims, lightee tires. Stiffer suspension and temperatures of 1c. I'm asking what made the difference here. This was a second launch immediately after posting a 4.1 slightly going up hill. Don't go gyro btw. There are other aftermarket rotors that are lighter than oem but don't compensate the life of the rotor for weight. -_-
 
#9 ·
It depends if you have had your tuner remove the 1st gear torque limiter, if its been removed then I would say the time could be pretty accurate.
 
#12 ·
I did not have a torque limit, EDM model, but my tuner added a torque custom torque limit to protect my gearbox, my car is an `08, so abusing the launch control at higher than stock torque levels is risky.
What rims and tires do you have? Sofar the lightest and strongest rims are Volk forged rims, correct me if I am wrong, but the OEM rims are very light too, sofar most cheap aftermarket rims are not lighter than BBS, only a few like Volk and Yokohama, SSR make lighter rims for our cars, but the lighter you go the more expencieve it gets.
 
#13 ·
Went with tsw nurburgring 18x9 22+. Also purchased new from the market the Yokohama advan sport a/s. Each tire and wheel is combined is 4lbs less than the previous. No spare in the car. And eibach pro springs. As you can imagine the acceleration, handling, braking is much better than oem. Specially with a tune. Ultimately I'll be taking off close to 50lbs of unsprung weight by next month. Guess I'll start posting vids
 
#14 · (Edited)
As I read from an earlier post the girodiscs save around 23 pounds of unsprung weight, the volk ce28n 18x8.5 are 16 pounds vs 18.6 for the stock BBS, that is another 10 pounds, sofar only tires and brake discs save around 33 pounds, I don`t know about the tires themselves do you have the AD08R?
What is the weight of them compared to OEM A13?
Also a carbon fiber drive shaft can save some unsprung weight, the suspension is mostly forged aluminum so no real weight saving can be done there, and I also run without a spare tire.
PS Your wheels are heavier than stock http://www.tsw.com/alloy_wheels_nurburgring.php , according tho their site it is 19.4 pounds, stock BBS is 18.6.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Unsprung weight compilation!

I can't stress how much research I've done and companies I've called for all this info so I'm gonna try and break it down as easy as possible with pictures ETC. First things first. I'm sorry bud, but BBS are 21.5 LBS (21 on pic but it kept going 21.5 and 21 so we need to round up). I have them off the car and took the weight of them here is a pic. The GSR Enkei are even heavier. So, we are looking at 8LBS taken off already. Mind you I've upgraded the width by .5 inches which isn't much but even on the track all that matters most is tires and by not going anything with 10.5 unless it matches the weight. Moving on to the tires. For summer the DW Conti are 5LBS less than Stock tires running at 26 LBS. I believe the measure is 245/35/18 which is IDEAL and perfect for this rim size. They stretch to 9.5 and have a lower sidewall than stock. So far we have 26LBS right there. Moving on to the Gyro which BTW, i might not go with because I've found a better alternative for less than HALF the price.

Girodisc Front Brake Rotors = 17.4LBS Front, Rear 13.4LBS = Total Weight of Gyro Combined. = 61.6LBS over 84.2LBS which is stock. A whopping 22.6LBS savings. So add those up and we have a total of 48.6LBS just off the tires, rims, and brakes. Springs are slightly part of the rotary mass btw. But I'm not even getting into drive shaft either which i can take off another 15 or so Lbs. Total, 63.6LBS savings. Price? PRICELESS. Any questions please feel free to ask. So far I've done only wheels and ALL SEASON tires. Summer time is when I'll be doing brakes, summer tires, perhaps driveshaft. Some people say its 3Lbs taken off for each lb of rotary mass. Some say even 10 which i dont believe. Regardless of what you believe. We can all agree 48.6Lbs or 63.6Lbs from just handling upgrades is incredible. Your call will feel 10x better and the driver involvement as well. Once again, please feel free to ask any questions. Oh, the HP dyno there by the Cobb AP was done properly according to them but this was PRIOR to all the upgrades. Going to do it again soon and see if there is any difference.
 

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#17 ·
1. speedometer is based on the transmission rotation, so is it possible that the new wheels you have are smaller, thus spin faster, even though you are not running any faster?

2. Wheels could have slipped a tad and caused the speedometer to register 60 before it was actually 60.

So the more precise way to measure this is externally mounted speed measurement device.

Assuming it's 1C outside, traction is not as great as in summer.
 
#18 ·
Stage 1 is designed for Subies bro.....:sway:
 
#19 ·
Hhaha, taking the accessport dyno readings/0-60 times seriously, is seriously ludacris. Dude, I've got a Ralliart with all the basic bolt ons with a stage 2 ots map...I've had readings saying 330hp! I never believed that for a second and thought how ridiculous this piece of equipment is. Especially considering I was messing around with my friend in his MR with all the basic ETS bolt ons, etuned achieving around 315hp I believe he said...his car absolutely obliterated my car. Never believe anything you see from an accessport. That's like the same logic as, it's on the internet...it must be real and factual!
 
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