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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How To: Brembo Brake Pad change.

Parts Required:
- new brake pads, we decided to go with HAWK HP+ for DD and occasional track events.

- PN Front: HB453N.585 Disc Brake Pad; HP Plus w/0.585
- PN Rear: HB615N.535 Disc Brake Pad; HP Plus w/0.535


or something a touch more streetable,

- PN Front: HB453F.585 Disc Brake Pad; HPS Performance Street w/0.585
-PN Rear: HB615F.535 Disc Brake Pad; HPS Performance Street w/0.535


can be obtained via forum sponsors like FREDBEANSPARTS :+1:

Tools Required:
- 800 grit sand paper (not required if you will bed the pads slowly)
- shop rag
- brake cleaner
- brake lube
- center punch
- hammer
- vice grips or pliers
- jack stands and car jack

Recommended Number of People:
- 1 person

Difficulty
- 1.5, hard part is getting the metal pins out of the caliper without scratching it. I taped off the end of the center punch with electrical tape to facilitate an extra safety measure.

Time to complete
- 15 minutes per wheel taking your time.

Step by Step Instructions

1) Jack up the car, and remove the wheel your going to be working on and open up the brake fluid reservoir.



2) VERY Lightly hammer the retainer pins until they hide into the caliper body.



3) Using a set of vice grips or pliers pull on the retainer pins while pushing on the spring loaded clip, start with the top one first.



4) Once the top pin is out, slide out the spring loaded retention clip and remove the lower retainer pin.




5) Slide out the outboard side pad first and remove the metal backing, you will reuse the backing once you clean it, also clean the spring loaded retention clip and pins.




5) Slightly burnish the new pads with 800 grit sand paper (NOT REQUIRED if you will bed the pads in slowly)



6) Place the backing on your new pad and apply brake caliper grease to the round circle areas, to the top and bottom of pad edge and to the front small indent.



7) Push back the outboard pistons with pliers if you don't have a fancy caliper spreader. Also slightly grease your retention pins.



8) Repeat the above procedure for the inboard side pad, then replace the lower retainer pin and spring loaded retention clip.



9) Putting pressure on the spring loaded retention clip slide in the upper retention pin back in.



10) Hammer the retention spring into place until the back is flush with the caliper body. I used a piece of plastic to prevent the hammer from scratching the caliper paint.



11) Thats it you are done...........one wheel :D LOL



12) Repeat for the other three wheels, close the fluid reservoir and then tidy up your work space.





13) Slowly test your brakes and follow manufacturers bedding in procedure and ENJOY your new stopping power :godance:

PHOTO BY PHOTO SLIDE SHOW
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Bedding procedure.

HAWK BEDDING PROCEDURE

I did this write up for the folks who have never changed their brake pads and don't feel like paying a shop $100-150 for something so simple. This job is very easy and I hope my pictures and write up assist you in changing your own brakes.

Thanks for looking and trackjunkie, your welcome.

TheNEWB
 

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Nice write up!
 

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Bedding procedure.

HAWK BEDDING PROCEDURE

I did this write up for the folks who have never changed their brake pads and don't feel like paying a shop $100-150 for something so simple. This job is very easy and I hope my pictures and write up assist you in changing your own brakes.

Thanks for looking and trackjunkie, your welcome.

TheNEWB

On this procedure it states DO NOT DRAG BRAKES as step 3.

Can anyone clear up what "Dragging the brakes" means or entails?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On this procedure it states DO NOT DRAG BRAKES as step 3.

Can anyone clear up what "Dragging the brakes" means or entails?
Drive while brakes are engaged and accelerator depressed.

Two feet on both pedals at the same time. :-/ = bad.
 

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That car looks familar:)
 

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don't forget to bleed the lines afterwards.
 

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don't forget to bleed the lines afterwards.
The fluid should be flushed before doing this - otherwise the old, dirty fluid is just pushed back to the MC through the ABS valves, getting them all mucked up.

There is no reason to bleed if the hydraulic system hasn't been opened (bleeding being defined as removing air). Changing pads does not introduce air to the system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
thanks for all the nice comments, and thanks to TrackJunkie for his assistance with the camera :thumbup:
 

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i have seen some bed in steps mention to NOT come to a complete stop...? whats the story there?
 
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