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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Kinda of a noob question don't know too much, but was wondering what parts in a stock motor that needed upgraded in order to reliably hold between 400-500hp
 

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400 to 500 whp is a pretty large gap dude. That 100whp difference lol.

I finally have my car running reliably.. 510whp, mustang dyno.

Consisting of...

Built motor
LA aftermarket ductile iron sleeves
Wiseco forged pistons
Carrillo forged rods
Moroso oil pan
King bearings everywhere
Refreshed cylinder head
Aftermarket valves, springs, retainers
Kelford 214b cams
Arp bolts everywhere
ID2000 Injectors
Fuel pump controller
Walbro 450 in tank. To surge tank, with aeromotive external fuel pump under the car.
GTX3576R ATP turbo
Custom 4" MAF intake
ETS 4" intercooler

And of course your generic exhaust. and piping mods.

Oh, and....

Rebuilt transmission with new gears (stock ratio), diff pins and shit.

Soooooo all in all. About 20 grand.


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Very true. And it's that 100hp gap that really is where you depart from a mostly stock build to a built everything build...

You can reliably make 400hp with (generically speaking)
Stock Motor
Clutch Upgrade
FMIC
Intake
Boost control solenoid
Turbo-Back Exhaust
Stock Frame Turbo
Fuel Pump
Injectors
Tune

Once you get much above 400hp you're looking at a lot more modifications to be reliable and safe.

As for figuring it all out, there's no magical, preferred Stage X upgrade package that everyone just writes a check for. It's usually best to figure out your use case (drag, street, track, etc) and your HP goals, and figure it out from there. Otherwise, there are a lot of build / dyno threads that show exactly what setup people are running and there's no shame in copying what works!
 

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And to add to the above. If you want to make 400whp on those mods. You better make sure to put it on a dynojet, not a mustang dyno. Or you will be very disappointed lol

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Yeah, most of the dyno sheets of 400hp cars on stock frame turbos (FP Red, GT3076R, etc) are on DynoJet or DynoDynamics dynos and not a heartbreaker!

You MIGHT be able to get to 400whp on a Mustang dyno if you go E85. In my opinion, if you're going to go through all the effort to get to E85, you should just skip the bolt-on phase and go bigger!
 

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Surprised no one has mentioned SST.

That will make a significant difference in cost and parts to run 500whp reliably.
 

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Kinda of a noob question don't know too much, but was wondering what parts in a stock motor that needed upgraded in order to reliably hold between 400-500hp
Big question here is are you looking for HP or WHP? Thats going to be a big factor.

As far as the SST (MR) is concerned, your Torque will cap out around 350 before the stock clutches start to get slippy. So that will limit your HP number for sure.

Also, a lot of people have ran well over 450 WHP on the stock block. It isnt uncommon to see a lot of builds running 500+ WHP with a larger turbo on a DynoJet. At the end of the day it is just a number though. Keep in mind on a stock block the boost must be controlled and ramped up, to keep the torque down. Because of this, the same exact setup (turbo and all) would yield a different feel, lag, etc on a car that had a built engine VS a stock block. 600 WHP on a built block will feel much different than 600 WHP on a built car.

So, knowing this, do you want a car that has a good kick from a stop, stock block, while putting down 500+? Or do you want a car that will blow away the tires, and make you throw up every time you launch it?

If you go the stock block route, the safest route is cams, valve springs and retainers, the obvious full bolt ons, and the turbo/turbo kit of your choice.

If you decide that you want more low end power and want to "bulletproof" the build, then expect a built engine. Shortblock prices will likely be around 4 grand, build/displacement dependent. If you decide to do something to the head (you really don't need to for 500WHP) then you can just keep the springs, retainers, and cams. If you want that torque number up, you'll also have to consider a better clutch. The fuel needs to run 500+ reliability include injectors, around 700 for the set, and your choice of pump system (double pumper, surge, etc)

The ancillary choices you have to make regarding the end goal of the car are going to determine the smartest path to take.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes forgot to mention I have a MR pushing 392hp and 360 something tq and recently blew my engine. And I don’t plan to track it or race with it in the future. For the year and half I’ve had it before the motor went I drove it pretty chill. But I guess my end goal is to be in low 400’s hp. So I’m in search of a stock longblock but would it hold reliably with my current numbers and possibly hold low 400’s hp? Or do I need to upgrade pistons, connecting rods and other components in the engine?
 

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U need a built bottom end, pistons rods bearings... u dun have to sleeve unless u going above 600whp. A built head would be a bonus, else get a stage 1 gsc cam
 

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Yes forgot to mention I have a MR pushing 392hp and 360 something tq and recently blew my engine. And I don’t plan to track it or race with it in the future. For the year and half I’ve had it before the motor went I drove it pretty chill. But I guess my end goal is to be in low 400’s hp. So I’m in search of a stock longblock but would it hold reliably with my current numbers and possibly hold low 400’s hp? Or do I need to upgrade pistons, connecting rods and other components in the engine?

What you need is a better TUNA. Once you find that then you can make all the fo hunnits (400s) that you want.
 

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What you need is a better TUNA. Once you find that then you can make all the fo hunnits (400s) that you want.
First thing to make me laugh this morning right here. Lolololol

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I have 565whp and 460tq on a Mustang Dyno. Stock block with cams and springs. A word of caution when going over 500whp: reliability goes down, especially once you get upgraded motor mounts. Increased shock and vibration reverberating back into the block which results in electrical components going out. I run E-85 and I use 600cc/min Methanol Injection.

Build List:
-GSC2 Cams Titanium Retainers and beehive springs
-AMS intercooler and piping
-1600 cc injectors, upgraded fuel rail
-Bushar Dual 225 fuel pumps and lift pump
- fuel cooler and surge tank (must have)
-Snow Performance Methanol Kit
-Racing equal length exhaust header
-AMS wide mouth down pipe
-COBB 3” exhaust (No Cat)
-Dominator 3.0XTR (flow is between red and black)
-Sympac recirculating valve
-Oil Catch Can System from Mile High Thermal Research
-Heat Sheild from Mile High Thermal Research
-6-Puck Ceramic Clutch
-Fidizana Aluminum Flywheel
-Torque Solutions motor mounts

The broken parts that needed upgraded:
Broke all four axels
Blew up Rear Differantial
Upgraded 5speed with 10% taller main gear (Jacks Transmission).
 

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I have 565whp and 460tq on a Mustang Dyno. Stock block with cams and springs. A word of caution when going over 500whp: reliability goes down, especially once you get upgraded motor mounts. Increased shock and vibration reverberating back into the block which results in electrical components going out. I run E-85 and I use 600cc/min Methanol Injection.

Build List:
-GSC2 Cams Titanium Retainers and beehive springs
-AMS intercooler and piping
-1600 cc injectors, upgraded fuel rail
-Bushar Dual 225 fuel pumps and lift pump
- fuel cooler and surge tank (must have)
-Snow Performance Methanol Kit
-Racing equal length exhaust header
-AMS wide mouth down pipe
-COBB 3” exhaust (No Cat)
-Dominator 3.0XTR (flow is between red and black)
-Sympac recirculating valve
-Oil Catch Can System from Mile High Thermal Research
-Heat Sheild from Mile High Thermal Research
-6-Puck Ceramic Clutch
-Fidizana Aluminum Flywheel
-Torque Solutions motor mounts

The broken parts that needed upgraded:
Broke all four axels
Blew up Rear Differantial
Upgraded 5speed with 10% taller main gear (Jacks Transmission).
I have a somewhat similar build getting put together. Did the axles and diff break from launching?
 
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