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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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DISCLAIMER: I am in no way nor is anyone else that posted maps in this thread responsible for any damage you do your own engine. I am a amateur and not a professional. Use at your own risk!!!
PLEASE DO NOT POST PROFESSIONAL TUNERS MAPS ON HERE. IT IS THEIR INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY THAT YOUR PURCHASED. IT IS NOT YOURS TO SHARE FOR FREE.

If you created a map, modified stock map, etc... feel free post your map and a little description what the effects of this map are and the gains your experienced. VDR results pre and post are helpful.

I figured I would create this thread on here because I know there is many misconceptions on MIVEC TIMING Tuning.

Here is a modified JDM map. Safe for even a stock car with a proper tune. It is designed for increased spool below 3000 rpm and help hold boost better through the RPM range and gain more top end.



 

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I can't share my mivec maps since they are based off of a pro tune, but to contribute here is a pdf from mitsu explaining how mivec timing changes can change your power output and fuel economy.

(this for the outlander's mivec but the same principals apply)
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/corporate/about_us/technology/review/e/pdf/2006/18e_09.pdf

edit: found this bookmark that i also found helpful when learning how mivec works
mivec info starts at 7:33
 

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Here are the mivec maps I'm using (stock turbo and cams): http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-...rums/431763-warmup-aggressive-mivec-maps.html

These seem to work pretty well, but I think there is room left to tune these.

Also, from "How to Tune an Evo" (http://forums.evolutionm.net/ecuflash/302895-how-tune-evo.html):

B. Mivec Tuning (Evo 9 only)

The Evo 9 has variable cam timing on the intake cam. It varies the cam timing from a value of 0 to a value of 30 in the VVT table. You can input values beyond 30 in the table but nothing really happens. Those who specialize in ECU disassembly on the Evo have not figured out a way to log cam timing. I am pretty sure that in due time they will figure it out. When that happens we can figure out exactly what load cells we are hitting across the rpm range and create far better maps. In the meantime a lot of DIYers have experimented with cam timing and posted their maps and their findings (http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=210569&highlight=mivec+tuning)

All the maps tend to follow a similar pattern: cam timing advance is low in the lower rpm, but as the engine speed increases cam timing is advanced. Cam timing advance reaches its peak around 3500-4000 rpm and then cam timing is gradually brought back close to zero by 6500-7000 rpm.

Most DIY tuners start by using the Evo 9 JDM RS map. That map forms the basis of 90% of Mivec maps that are posted and used in the VVT table. Here is what the map looks like:



Most DIYers change the numbers in the “island” that has 24 in it to 28.8 and save the map and flash it into the ECU. Others change the entire 28.8 numbers to 30, save the map and flash it into their ECU. This is a really good map.

I tinkered with mivec and was able to come up with a map that I really liked. It is a fusion of two maps. The first map was posted in the Mivec Tuning thread on Evom and the second map was created by John Bradley who is the resident mivec guru on Evom. I took the top end (load cell 70 to 100) from one map and fused it with the bottom end from another map. I was very surprised by the increase in low end snappiness of my Evo. The car felt like an NA car. You can put it in high gear at low rpm and simply touch the accelerator and the car goes. I thought it was only in my mind, but when I tested it on other Evos, the impressions of the drivers were the same. Two caveats about this map: First, it will slightly increase your idle by about 100-200 rpm during normal driving. Second, after you hammer on the car for a while, your idle will go up to 1000 rpm. If you can tolerate this, then go ahead and use the map. If you cannot, then use the JDM 9 RS map.

 

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Okay I never understood how it can advance/retard timing electrically and now I understand it’s off oil pressure from electric spool. Cool!

Let me ask this, how do you know what cells to tune/adjust? I thought we could not log these cells so I’m lost on that part. I understand how advancing the timing on intake side and retarding on the exhaust side makes TQ I just did not know where to start from.
 

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That's one of the issues with tuning Mivec is that it's hard to log where you're at re:mivec. With timing, we can see we're actually getting x* of timing advance when we set y. With mivec you can say go to 30, but try as it may it just can't get it.... hard to tell without a dyno to see if it actually worked.

When you're logging you at least can know what cell you're in since you have the RPM and the load.
 

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Got ya there and understand it would be more simple to tune it on dyno.

Okay let me ask on Clipse exhaust map he is showing the -5 island in between all -10 why is that? Seem to me car would have dead spot in power through them cells since the exhaust is leaven the chamber sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got ya there and understand it would be more simple to tune it on dyno.

Okay let me ask on Clipse exhaust map he is showing the -5 island in between all -10 why is that? Seem to me car would have dead spot in power through them cells since the exhaust is leaven the chamber sooner.
If you want to spool the turbo fast. You retard the exhaust cam, and advance the intake cam. This allows the cylinders to fill up with more air, and more exhaust to spool the turbo. Once the turbo is spooled generally you require less exhaust retard.

I posted this map because it is tame, it is not designed for max power, I have a much more aggressive map I use on my own car. Same principle applies.

Larger turbos would benefit in having more exhaust retard in upper rpm range/load cells. Since they naturally flow more CFM's.

You can try variations of this map for example change the -5 section of the map in the middle to -10 deg.

Best to check these results with VDR if street tuning to see if they help.
 

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Clipse.. care to post your aggressive map, or even PM it? I am looking for something in the middle. I have some based off of HiBoost, but they seem a bit.. "off".

Any good tips on tuning MIVEC? The links you provided do explain some, but I am just looking for information on how to visualize the peak curves in the timings so I can try to "see" where the maximum advance angle might be, then dropping to where there is valve overlap. For example, at say.. 1500 RPM at 90 load, if Intake is advanced 10, and exhaust is retarded 0, this means I am pushing more air into the chamber, but exhaust will open at the normal time?

Thanks..
 

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Cool clipse and thanks for doing this I know hounded you bit on this and want say THANK YOU for open this can of worms! I come from a single cam and degree wheel. Lol. But really neat how this works and I understand 100% behind the thought of doing this. I'm going play with this some when I get some time and weather gets better. I'm wanting to upgrade turbo but I wanted get this down first so I can be at 100% of what she will do. But weather is crap till april or may here.

I would like see your map just see what you adjusted and understand why more. You got my email I think if you want to share it.
 

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Clipse.. care to post your aggressive map, or even PM it? I am looking for something in the middle. I have some based off of HiBoost, but they seem a bit.. "off".

Any good tips on tuning MIVEC? The links you provided do explain some, but I am just looking for information on how to visualize the peak curves in the timings so I can try to "see" where the maximum advance angle might be, then dropping to where there is valve overlap. For example, at say.. 1500 RPM at 90 load, if Intake is advanced 10, and exhaust is retarded 0, this means I am pushing more air into the chamber, but exhaust will open at the normal time?

Thanks..
The X is an interference design .. even in failed mivec condition there are still overlaps between the intake and exhaust cam timing..

Intake cam is full retard on fail mode
Exhaust cam is full advance on fail mode
 

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Here are my maps for my Green, and these help me reach 26-28psi by 3000rpm.
The trick with the MIVEC is to think of your valves as a restriction while at low rpms.
Your turbo is wanting to spool up fast and has the heat to do so but low engine rpm blocks the flow like an orifice plate. By advancing the intake cam and retarding the exhaust cam your giving the motor a little more time to breath. So your turbo can get rpms up faster and be at full spool earlier. MIVEC basically gives you a little more room on your cams to keep a good bottom end but increase the top end.

Since my Green is anti surge I can spool up pretty fast and not have issues so I can be more aggressive on my tables. Also keep in mind when your tuning a bunch of exhaust retard in the higher rpms won't do you any good. Also you'll reach a point on the bottom end where advancing the intake will just cause knock without helping spool.






Also a little side note is if your tuning and you have a pesky point in your map where you keep overshooting load targets be proactive instead of reactive and use the MIVEC to control boost spikes.
 

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So no matter what you can't make a valve slap a piston by tuning mivec what your say right Gunzo... I know you will have to adjust other map in ecuflash to comp for the new mivec maps so you won't go WOT and then BOOOM... But there is a point where you can make it knock like crazy I know, lol.
 

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Thanks Hollywood that helps too man!

And see that how I would think of tuning mivec maps is how Hollywood got his set like they kind of match in terms of +/- in the loads. Let me ask before your turbo swap did you run the mivec maps like that but turned them down more +/-?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So no matter what you can't make a valve slap a piston by tuning mivec what your say right Gunzo... I know you will have to adjust other map in ecuflash to comp for the new mivec maps so you won't go WOT and then BOOOM... But there is a point where you can make it knock like crazy I know, lol.
Just google it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Like I said before if you want to spool the turbo, just advance the intake, and retard the exhaust. There is really not set perfect way to do it. Every car is a bit different. Just play around with different maps in VDR.

Also becareful when advancing too much and retarding down low, you can over do it. So you might have really richen up the 2-3k sectors of the map so you don't lean out.

As for playing up top in the rpm range. It is hard to see if you gain or lose anything without a dyno or checking with VDR.

MIVEC tuning is best done on a dyno in the upper rpm ranges. No doubt about that.

Thanks for posting a more aggressive map hollywood. I can say my other one is similar, yet it isn't ;).
 

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MIVEC tuning is best done on a dyno in the upper rpm ranges. No doubt about that.

Thanks for posting a more aggressive map hollywood. I can say my other one is similar, yet it isn't ;).
Don't forgot who gave you that map son......:inout:


People think one map works on every car..... it does not.

Testing on the dyno helps but sometimes it can react differently on the road.
 

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I'm proud to see all of my Gearheads working together in the same thread!

I spent a bit of time on the dyno playing with MIVEC sub-4000rpm when I first developed my base maps.

My lower RPM stuff looks more aggressive than Clipse's map, but not quite as aggressive as Hollywood's.

However, my high rpm tables are more conservative than both.

The characteristics of one of my tunes are generally the sensation of a light car due to a quick spool up with fast throttle response at low RPMs, and a clean pull through redline.

That said, next time I'm on the dyno, maybe I'll play with more of the mivec numbers up top to experiment some more.
 
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