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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my Evo from a forum member in early 2015 but lost the progression of modifying it through old phone backups and old laptops, so most details or photos are from within the past year. I daily my Evo so I never had the idea of modding it with fancy, track-driven parts. It originally had a Cobb AP OTS tune on stock turbo that would taper boost at high RPM like expected, but it was fun regardless. My first few mods consisted of an open dump downpipe, fmic, test pipe, and a tune at IveyTune in North NJ. It was fun an fairly reliable for some time (a misfire here or there, easy fixes).

I did actually take it to the track once at NJMP lightning and man, was this car cheat codes. I didn't think I'd be getting point-bys from Corvettes and M4s.
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Shortly after, my stock turbo started acting strangely. I normally like to upgrade as opposed to replace, so I bought a used FP red (not buying a used turbo ever again, or any used air/fuel parts for a turbo car). That really changed the car and kept the relative spool characteristics compared to stock and gave me a taste of what a turbo car can do. Unfortunately it blew a turbo seal in the middle of nowhere and I needed a tow. At that point, I became serious with modifying the Evo by avoiding sourcing used parts on Facebook group pages. I had CBRD in York, PA install and tune their BW EFR8374 kit (.92 a/r, IWG). The transient response with the turbo was incredible and it held boost without tapering.

I'd get my valve cover powdercoated some time after by a reputable company in the Philly area and due to my ignorance, I didn't check whether the baffles were cleaned (I assumed they were cleaned by the company) and some tens of miles shortly after, my oil pump got clogged up and I experienced rod knock for the first time. It was faster to throw in a new 2014 crate engine, so I went that route and got it re-tuned. At least now I didn't have to do the timing chain service on an old 08 engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've taken the Evo on multiple trips, including 1500 mile roundtrip drives to Canada, multiple 1000 mile roundtrips to family, and this recent trip in mid-2021 to Maine:
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In early 2022, my tcase ran dry due to the Mitsu dealer not torquing down a drain plug. So that was replaced by another dealer with a Shep built tcase, which led to other tcase-unrelated issues. I previously would only go to dealers for drivetrain fluid service and documentation of it, but I think I'm done with Mitsu dealers. At this point, I've been doing some random maintenance on the car.

Refurbishing calipers with VHT rattle cans, surprisingly not bad.
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Random suspension mods, like aluminum caster bushing in the flcas:
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Hated removing and reinstalling the front lcas, but found out it's easy to remove if you start with the balljoint at the knuckle. Remove that bolt and nut (hammer or chisel it out) and then use a long pry bar between the knuckle and arm to push the arm and balljoint out of the knuckle. You definitely should replace the balljoint bolt and when reinstalling, the bolt should glide in fairly easily. If not, readjust the balljoint so the divot lines up parallel with the knuckle, allowing the bolt to go through. I had the bushings pressed in by a local shop.

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Fed a duct into my MAP heatshield.

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Adjusted the whiteline front sway bar to the middle setting. Also did an oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think this is such an under-rated and excellent mod to do for your evo, especially if you're lowered (I have OEM MR bilsteins on swifts): the SSP aluminum undertray. I used to have a plastic undertray by WTF tuned (same as NRG) and it did not hold up too well and does not compare to this undertray at all.
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Had to refill and burp the coolant after a coolant return line on my turbo blew....that was a pain to replace right before a long trip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As of July 2022, this is how the car sits. I just had it tuned by Moore Automotive in VA and it made 473whp/360wtq on stock engine, EFR8374, ID1000s, AEM340 (93 octane).
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I have a bunch of mods that I didn't list, but I'll recall some here that made differences to the driving experience:
TS front engine mount made the shifting so much quicker--wow. I ended up developing a weird shaking at highway speeds afterwards, so I replaced the rear OEM engine mount with a TS mount as well, and now the car doesn't shake, shifts even better, and the whole dash vibrates (although that's been slowly winding down as the mounts are broken in).
I've done some suspension mods too like whiteline f&r swaybars (the front sway bar does make the car feel better all around and/or planted, despite being a doozy to install), whiteline rck, flca big bushings, swift springs, rear control arms (so easy to adjust without using the eccentric bolt). I'd recommend these several suspension upgrades, sans the swift springs--I'd substitute those with a real coilover setup (like Ohlins). Will update this in the future with cams, flex fuel, and coilovers, probably.
 
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Also, if you're still looking for a better suspension setup, I do recommend these:


Great on both the road and track. And reasonably priced.
 

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You guys still using the standard Ecu , mine does not like to go much further than 25 psi with ecutek, got the gtx3576r gen 2 with all support including full engine build and SST , right now doing 504 bhp/455 nm .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Very nice build. Just curious, how much boost are you running that you can hit 473whp on 93? I'm at about 430whp at 26psi on 93. I run 28psi on E85 for about 490whp.
28psi on 93.

Also, if you're still looking for a better suspension setup, I do recommend these:


Great on both the road and track. And reasonably priced.
I'll look into these but I'm fairly decided on the Ohlins..maybe with Vorshlag caster plates as well. Thanks!
 

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You guys still using the standard Ecu , mine does not like to go much further than 25 psi with ecutek, got the gtx3576r gen 2 with all support including full engine build and SST , right now doing 504 bhp/455 nm .
Yes nearly everyone uses the stock ECU
 

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@JDMV8 enjoying your build. It’s nice to see some activity on this forum. Do you have a link for the Race Ramps… or model number of yours?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
@JDMV8 enjoying your build. It’s nice to see some activity on this forum. Do you have a link for the Race Ramps… or model number of yours?
You can get a pair on amazon: Race Ramps RR-56 56" L Ramps
And I also have extenders: Race Ramps RR-EX-12 56" Xtender

I have a pretty low Lexus and these ramps work very well for it. Evo has swift springs and it clears the ramps easily. Been using them for 3 years, I love em! Not sure if extenders are necessary if you aren't low. I always use extenders with my Evo anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My front axles have been leaking juice for a while and although I had a shop replace the clamps some time ago, the boots were still leaking and one was torn. I replaced them with Insane Shafts 500whp axles.
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Install wasn't too bad. I used a 5lb slide hammer and 2.5" attachment to grip the axle and each axle came out in 5 seconds. Had to remove wheel, undo tie rod, and remove strut--so it wasn't too bad.

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Here's some of the grease the passenger side CV joints flung:
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Next up is drivetrain fluids...

Here's the Evo and ISF.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hopefully your Insane shafts don't get covered in surface rust in a month like mine did on my CRV...
I've read only good reviews about them for other platforms. As long as the CV joints don't rust 😅
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All drivetrain fluids done. It was pretty easy on ramps.
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The car felt a bit unbalanced, especially when making a tight turn. When I had the front torque solution engine mount installed, I had a weird engine wobbling noise happening at 80mph, so I changed the rear mount. Then my turns felt off. So I finally changed all of the engine + tranny mount. I already have driveshaft bushings and I added rear diff side mount bushings as well (poly). The car feels so good now.

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I also added a gate selector bushing (copper one by AMS) and found that the plastic shoe on the shifter lever was missing, so I ordered a chunkier one from Ross Sport in the UK. It did not come pre-drilled, so I had to make a hole with just a little bit of play for the lever to fit into. It's made of delrin.
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I already have aluminum shifter cable bushings+base bushings and with all of these mods, the shifter feels so good.

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Had a slight clunk in the rear and found it was one of the endlinks. Replaced with new Hotchkis heavy duty endlinks--real nice.


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Finally, my cam sensor wire was pinched when I installed the side engine mount, so I redid the wiring and wrapped it in DEI gold.

The car feels great with all matching poly 75duro mounts in front and alignment (front -2* camber; rear -1.8* camber; zero toe front, little bit toe in in the rear).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Got tints. Llumar pinnacle (ceramic), 15%.

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Made a box for a 12" sub. Front and rear boards are MDF and all other boards are birch plywood. Fits and works well. Mounted at two points.

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