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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have any tips that can help with the rear diff bushing removal. I've searched quite a bit and see a lot of its just a pain in the ass. I'm also gonna be doing the diff mount bushings and d.s carrier bushings, not worried about those. I have a lift and pretty much any tools that I need. Just trying to get a few useful tips to speed it up while I'm working on it.
 

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I didn't do the bushing though. Hollywood did and I think I remember him saying that it sucked balls
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well i installed the bushings took me about 2 hours total with one problem. D.S bushings np the we get to the carrier mount bushings. Im on a military post so we have our nice little auto shop to work in. So i ask to use the press to pop the first bad boy out and the nice guy behind the desk says "i''ll get this for you". So I decide thats fine I've popped out bushings all day np. Well he used a socket to press it out that was too big and cracked my mount. See pic...Man I was pissed. So he ordered another up for me but it wont be here til next week. So i do the other side myself. Took 5 minutes. See pic without the crack. Then its on to the other large diff mount. I looked at it grabbed the air hammer and boom out and installed in 5 minutes. That was the easiest one. So the carrier mount cost 70$, I was surprised they covered it! The mount wasnt broke in half so I just cruised home without laying on the throttle. Drove fine no clunking or anything. I def noticed the whine in the car I dont care though. All in all it was pretty easy to do. I'll just stick to pressing bushings out myself....lesson learned
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I've done it. The whine from the rear end is bad at times. But I also did the drive shaft carrier bushings. I got some of the free sample of GMAT. I just did the trunk bottom. It cut noise back down to reasonable level. There is however no more hard shift clunk.

Ryan, whenever your up in Dayton let me know so you can see for yourself.

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Discussion Starter #9
There is deff a whine inside the car now. If something like that would aggravate you I would stay away from the solid bushings and go with the urethane, I'm not sure how much it would quite it down though.
 

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To get rear bushing out spray around bushing with pb blaster let set for a few minutes. Then use an air hammer to get it out. Make sure you hammer evenly, it is possible to stretch metal if it comes out crooked.

Once it out lift rear diff back into place. Use pb again on outside of solid bushing. Can either use brass Mallet or hammer and wood so you don't bang it up. Make sure this is done evenly so bolt hole lines up.


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Discussion Starter #11
Yea I did that exact same thing popped right out. I just used the bolt to pull the bushing into the frame. A lot easier than I expected
 

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Use some dyno mat type stuff in bottom of trunk and the whine is mostly in noticeable. It still there but very easy in ears.


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There is deff a whine inside the car now. If something like that would aggravate you I would stay away from the solid bushings and go with the urethane, I'm not sure how much it would quite it down though.
Lol my Tomei exhaust has rattled the car to pieces, I'm sure a "whine" can't possibly make things any worse.
 

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Used air chisel to remove the rear bushing from subframe
Made special tool to press into rear subframe
** Whiteline Bushing kit was a pain to install but totally worth the effort
- Downshifts more smooth; overall improvement in shift feel
- Helps maintain rear axle angles if you're lowered and eliminated vibrations/wheel hop I had during hard
accels (original issue i wanted to fix)
- No noticeable NVH changes
- Rear end is noticeable more stable as the diff isn't bouncing around as much

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