Magnus adapter plate?

Check Fred Beans Parts. I remember seeing it on their website.

Malves85 said:

Check Fred Beans Parts. I remember seeing it on their website.

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You know what? Im a noob. The upgrade kit is the plate. You need the CNC and the kits.

Here is the link if anyone else was confused. Thanks Malves.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/magnus-mitsubishi-evo-x-master-cylinder-upgrade.html

I HAVE DONE THIS CONVERSION.......it is not fun. you will need a dremel with cutting discs or grinding tip or small angle grinder. your also going to need to bleed your brakes and clutch. this would be a good time to remove clutch restrictor pill since you have to install new SS clutch line. if you have any questions i'll help you.

FYI, Shep says leave the restrictor pill in.

armysoldier1073 said:

I HAVE DONE THIS CONVERSION.......it is not fun. you will need a dremel with cutting discs or grinding tip or small angle grinder. your also going to need to bleed your brakes and clutch. this would be a good time to remove clutch restrictor pill since you have to install new SS clutch line. if you have any questions i'll help you.

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Thanks man I might have to. What do you have to cut?

dboz said:

FYI, Shep says leave the restrictor pill in.

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What was the reasoning? I trust shep, just curious.

dboz said:

FYI, Shep says leave the restrictor pill in.

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heres a great how to
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_articles.php?tech_article_id=4

the only purpose i could see to leaving it in is to allow the clutch to take most the abuse rather than the transmission. they seem to cost less. however i didnt buy an aftermarket clutch with more clamping force just to let the clutch pill allow it to slip...

Yes, I have done this myself as well and it is not as easy as it looks. The "How To" was helpful but the estimated time was nowhere close to when I had mine done.

dboz said:

FYI, Shep says leave the restrictor pill in.

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Funny, Carbonetic says take it out.

I left mine in .... If you chose to this would be best time to. There are 4 bolts on the firewall that held the original cmc to firewall. These are flat top bolts that are welded in. Have to cut off top right and lower left bolts. Then rest is fairly step by step in instructions. A motive power bleeder helps so much if your doing it by yourself.

The reason some take it out is for drag racing. With the pill out you know exactly where clutch engages everytime. With it in is slightly different engagement point everytime. This is how it was explained to me. I don't drag race nor launch mine so I didn't see need to remove it.

What is the typical life of the stock CMC? I know the thing is made of plastic and am wondering if since I am upgrading the clutch to ACT HDSS clutch if I should go ahead and get the Magnus upgrade. I just shelled out some cash for the flywheel, fluids, and clutch so am hoping I can get by till next month.

I know what my next order will be then, thanks.

ddawg1130 said:

Mine survived for 7k miles with an Exedy Stage 2 clutch. Just be prepared for it to break, shouldn't be immediately, but when it does you're gonna have to wait for shipping on parts and blah blah before it's drive-able.
And might have to pay for this depending on where it happens (yes, that's from my CMC failing):

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That's what happened to me after 5k miles

evolution now! said:

What is the typical life of the stock CMC? I know the thing is made of plastic and am wondering if since I am upgrading the clutch to ACT HDSS clutch if I should go ahead and get the Magnus upgrade. I just shelled out some cash for the flywheel, fluids, and clutch so am hoping I can get by till next month.

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seems like to me i read about everyone with around 3k miles on an after market clutch having the stock CMC fail on them

i had 25k miles on my act 6 puck before i HAD to do mine. i guess it is a roll of the dice, and maybe how you drive. some aftermarket clutches are easier on the oem cmc, but it is not a matter of IF but when. There isnt a specific time after clutch install as to when it WILL go.