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Discussion Starter #1
What do u guys think of this mod list in this order?

Stage 1:
-Cobb stage 3 kit (Intake, turbo back, boost control, access port)
-Cobb intercooler pipes upper and lower
-Cobb BPV

Stage 1.5:
-Pro tune

Stage 2:
-Ohlins coil overs
- Cobb sway bars

Step 3:
-Fuel injectors?
-Fuel pump?
-Recaro seats
-Rays TS06 wheels

What is your opinions on these mods and the order of them? The ones I'm curious on are if I should do the Injectors and pump earlier or later. I plan on eventually upgrading the turbo and cams, etc, but that's years down the road, so I wanna prep for that but not over due it in the beginning and waste money on stuff I could do later.


My plan for this car is to keep the outside as stock as possible but build the motor. It's going to be a DD for me so I do need it to be reliable. However, I plan on bringing it to the track every now and then, along with possibly dragging it (not often though)
 

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You could wait on the fuel mods until you get the turbo and install all of that at once and go for your 2nd tune unless you want to run e85 on the stock turbo
 

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You can save a lot of money not going with cobb's kit or the accessport. Better to go open source and just finding the parts your self not buying them off cobb.

With that said, intake, EBCS, and test pipe are the best bang for your buck and make around 350whp. Downpipe doesn't do much for stock turbo. Not worth the hassle and cost on stock turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You could wait on the fuel mods until you get the turbo and install all of that at once and go for your 2nd tune unless you want to run e85 on the stock turbo
Ok, I didn't know if fuel mods would make any difference on stock turbo, looks like I'll be saving money there until I upgrade the turbo. No plans to run e85. Idk how accessable it will be in the states I'll be driving in.

You can save a lot of money not going with cobb's kit or the accessport. Better to go open source and just finding the parts your self not buying them off cobb.

With that said, intake, EBCS, and test pipe are the best bang for your buck and make around 350whp. Downpipe doesn't do much for stock turbo. Not worth the hassle and cost on stock turbo.
I'm actually kinda set on Cobb parts simply because they come in a "kit" look fairly stock and I also get a %15 discount from them.

I thought about just scrapping the down pipe cause I read that it does nothing for stock turbo, but ultimately for an extra $350 it will just be more prepared for a bigger turbo down the road.

The acessport port I'm also set on cause it does way more than just flashing the ECU and gives some really good data with it.
 

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I thought about just scrapping the down pipe cause I read that it does nothing for stock turbo, but ultimately for an extra $350 it will just be more prepared for a bigger turbo down the road.

The acessport port I'm also set on cause it does way more than just flashing the ECU and gives some really good data with it.
User mikelbring has a point, and you should consider the advice you have been given. There are more limitations on the accessport than with an opensource solution. You get more logging ability over evoscan and RAXv3 logging. Also, a lot of bigger turbo options will not use the OEM style down-pipe. Totally not worth it. The best part about this platform being around for so long is that the community has tried out everything already. There are common pitfalls and regrets. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought about just scrapping the down pipe cause I read that it does nothing for stock turbo, but ultimately for an extra $350 it will just be more prepared for a bigger turbo down the road.

The acessport port I'm also set on cause it does way more than just flashing the ECU and gives some really good data with it.
User mikelbring has a point, and you should consider the advice you have been given. There are more limitations on the accessport than with an opensource solution. You get more logging ability over evoscan and RAXv3 logging. Also, a lot of bigger turbo options will not use the OEM style down-pipe. Totally not worth it. The best part about this platform being around for so long is that the community has tried out everything already. There are common pitfalls and regrets. <img src="http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" />
That's a reason I wanted an Evo so bad, it's been around for a while lol

So u r saying don't get the down pipe or get it for bigger turbo options?

Also what are my open source options? I haven't looked into any of that nor heard of open source tuners.
 

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That's a reason I wanted an Evo so bad, it's been around for a while lol

So u r saying don't get the down pipe or get it for bigger turbo options?

Also what are my open source options? I haven't looked into any of that nor heard of open source tuners.
Stay on the oem downpipe until you do the turbo. A lot of the kits include the downpipe.
Take that $350 and grab a firmer front engine mount/bushing, and sway bar/end-links. Those 2 stupid little things change the feel of the car so much, really noticeable. Probably the easiest things to install too.

Browse through the forums and find an etuner. There are some good ones that you will see mentioned often.
*TACTRIX/OPENPORT cable for accessing the ECU.
*Evoscan for logging.
*ECUFlash for flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's a reason I wanted an Evo so bad, it's been around for a while lol

So u r saying don't get the down pipe or get it for bigger turbo options?

Also what are my open source options? I haven't looked into any of that nor heard of open source tuners.
Stay on the oem downpipe until you do the turbo. A lot of the kits include the downpipe.
Take that $350 and grab a firmer front engine mount/bushing, and sway bar/end-links. Those 2 stupid little things change the feel of the car so much, really noticeable. Probably the easiest things to install too.

Browse through the forums and find an etuner. There are some good ones that you will see mentioned often.
*TACTRIX/OPENPORT cable for accessing the ECU.
*Evoscan for logging.
*ECUFlash for flashing.
Awesome! Thanks I'll look into all of this more.
 

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Stay on the oem downpipe until you do the turbo. A lot of the kits include the downpipe.
Take that $350 and grab a firmer front engine mount/bushing, and sway bar/end-links. Those 2 stupid little things change the feel of the car so much, really noticeable. Probably the easiest things to install too.

Browse through the forums and find an etuner. There are some good ones that you will see mentioned often.
*TACTRIX/OPENPORT cable for accessing the ECU.
*Evoscan for logging.
*ECUFlash for flashing.
I have the TS motor mounts but still have stock sway bars and end-links. I heard the rear is the one to replace, did you do both front and back?
 

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I have the TS motor mounts but still have stock sway bars and end-links. I heard the rear is the one to replace, did you do both front and back?
I only did the rear sway bar and end-links, and it made a big difference. The hardest part was removing the old end-links because everything was rusted up. Did it on ramps since you want the suspension pre loaded. Front is a different story. Going to do the front next time I have the sub chassis dropped.

Do you have the rear TS mount? And did you do it at the same time as the front or separately? I have it, just haven't installed yet because I heard it can be tricky to get to some of the bolts. The $60 driveshaft solid bracket bushings are also totally worth it.
 

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So is the front sway bar worth the trouble of dropping the sub frame the replace?
Time-wise rear sway bar is like 30 mins to install yourself. Front is way more time consuming. Its worth swapping out, but based on what others have posted, not as noticeable as the improvement you get with swapping the rear. Wait until you are already doing something that also requires dropping the front sub frame, like clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So is the front sway bar worth the trouble of dropping the sub frame the replace?
Time-wise rear sway bar is like 30 mins to install yourself. Front is way more time consuming. Its worth swapping out, but based on what others have posted, not as noticeable as the improvement you get with swapping the rear. Wait until you are already doing something that also requires dropping the front sub frame, like clutch.
Fair enough, what stiffness do u have yours setup to, hardest setting?
 

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Everyone who tunes evos tunes via opensource as a default. I don't think I've personally heard of anyone offering AP tunes as their main/first tuning service.

Downpipe isn't going to hurt performance, but you wont see many gains from it either.

As far as exhaust goes, its all pipes, so look into youtube and see which one you think sounds the best. TBH unless I couldn't find what I wanted in decent condition, 10/10 would buy used/good condition components here.

I would also look for a used intake as well, the fiter elements are fairly cheap to purchase anyway if they are damaged. Stock turbo, the stock airbox should handle about any power level you may make. You might be sacrificing 10 WHP at best after buying a K&N or Cosworth drop in "panel filter" Personally I would buy the Cosworth as it is a dry element style filter.

Do the fuel injectors, pump, EBCS, and any and all tunes at the same time. They will need to tune you for the new injectors when you install them so its going to shut you down until you do so.

UICP might be beneficial. Lower Intercooler pipe won't really benefit you much.

And as far as the sway bars and suspension is concerned, those can be done at any time. Almost everyone I've seen that has tracked their car or driven competitively would suggest a rear sway bar, and keep the front stock.

Some other minor improvements to be made would be to replace the front motor mount, or buy the STM/aftermarket front mount/crossmember. It will help keep the engine from shifting as much. The rear can be done too, but I would suggest to hold off on it until you replace the sway bar if you choose to do so, or inevitably replace the clutch.

My two cents on the subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
awesome! this has narrowed it down a lot, thanks!

I asked this in my other thread, but i figured id ask it here too:

Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark. To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits.

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf

Also would u recommend running a thicker weight?
 

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awesome! this has narrowed it down a lot, thanks!

I asked this in my other thread, but i figured id ask it here too:

Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark. To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits.

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf

Also would u recommend running a thicker weight?
Yes, AYC fluid is a separate enclosed system, so while the rear diff and AYC use the same fluid they don't really mix.

Both the OEM Gear and ATF fluids are pretty well regarded so I don't think you have a reason to switch them for aftermarket unless you're building a track car and need heavier weight because of temperature reasons.

Here's some discussion about that, Shep Trans recommendations and correct fluid lists:

https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19516
 

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Discussion Starter #19
awesome! this has narrowed it down a lot, thanks!

I asked this in my other thread, but i figured id ask it here too:

Just a quick question as im putting together a list of fluids and oils that need to be changed at the 30k mark. To confirm, the fluid in the AWC resivor in the truck DOES NOT make contact with the fluid in the transfer case or the rear diff AYC where the ATF goes. So that means i can use any fluid i want in the transfer case, and both rear diffs. I know the factory calls for Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil SAE 90 in the transfer and rear diff gear and Mitsubishi Diamond ATF SP III in the rear diff AYC. However im not a fan of using factory oils. Can i use these oils from redline for the transfer diff gear and diff AYC? Both of them say they are compatible and worthy culprits.

https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-gl-5-gear-oil
https://www.redlineoil.com/d4-atf

Also would u recommend running a thicker weight?
Yes, AYC fluid is a separate enclosed system, so while the rear diff and AYC use the same fluid they don't really mix.

Both the OEM Gear and ATF fluids are pretty well regarded so I don't think you have a reason to switch them for aftermarket unless you're building a track car and need heavier weight because of temperature reasons.

Here's some discussion about that, Shep Trans recommendations and correct fluid lists:

https://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19516
Man I've been looking for a thread like this for 2 days! Lol appreciate u posting that!
 
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