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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Update: 1/7/2020

Finally had the stars align for me to take me Evo at to San Jose to someone who offered to help me out. Turns out the previous mechanic had the clutch maxed out in the WRONG direction, so the clutch burning came from unintentionally slipping it too much. I'm now able to drive the Evo normally again. There was a curious side effect though.

The button behind the clutch pedal now doesn't make contact with the clutch pedal when it's pushed all the way in. I'm planning on wrapping tape around the clutch arm until it's thick enough to activate the switch, because otherwise, I can't start the car.

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When I bought my 2013 GSR 2 years ago, I thought it was going to be the perfect car for me. I knew Evo's had weak clutches, but I thought having an absolutely solid engine would be more than enough to offset that.

Hit 50K Miles, replaced the OEM Clutch with a CLutch Master 400 and a Act Streetlite Flywheel.

It worked for a while, until it didn't.


The clutch didn't last long.
So, this time I tried an ACT clutch with the OEM Fly Wheel. And at first, it was absolutely perfect. Clutch bit right away, and gave me the confidence by clearly telling me when I'm in gear. My MC was leaking though, so I went and replaced it with an upgrade kit that used a Evo 9 MC and a reinforcement bracket.

Problem: the clutch is now so high despite being adjusted as low it can get that I burn my clutch even doing something as simple as going through a drive through. I had another mechanic tell me that the pedal or the MC wasn't installed or adjusted right, and I really don't want to think that the shop I've been going to for over 15 years didn't do it right. I spent about $5,000 on just this issue (and I'm still slowly paying my primary mechanic for the clutch install) and now I can't drive my car. A few friends couldn't drive my car either, but my sister can somehow.

I still need to it adjusted/fixed so I can drive the thing when I have to, but I already made the decision to sell the car to my sister when I'm done paying it off.

Paying 500 a month for a car I can't even fucking drive anymore. The car was a mistake, but the Evo community has been good to me every step of the way.

Love you guys.

 

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Wait. You spent $5k on what exactly? Clutch install and CMC install/ adjustment???
 

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easier said than done - but can't you just adjust to the new clutch? having a clutch that engages at the top isn't bad once you get used to it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
easier said than done - but can't you just adjust to the new clutch? having a clutch that engages at the top isn't bad once you get used to it
I tried, I can't get used to it. It's way too high, and now there's zero feedback when I'm actually in gear or not. What's worst is Inhave really bad anxiety problems which doesn't help - relevant because I throw up in the car whether I have anything in my stomach or not. I need to be sure that the car is in gear because I don't have the money for another clutch or install, and I'm sick of having to use a vomit bucket in the passenger seat.

The mechanic I took it too has it all the way adjusted already. That's why I reached out to another mechanic for a second opinion and he said it's set incorrectly. The problem is I can't get my days off to match my sister's so she can help me drive it almost 2 hours away to his shop.
 

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These things happen when you don't take your car to EVO specific shops. Some times you pay more in the long run. Hope you get it sorted out. Not sure how you will manage your anxiety problems when dealing with this car. I sure hope you're not planning to heavily modify your evo. You will need an olympic swimming pool to contain the amount of vomit you will be doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
These things happen when you don't take your car to EVO specific shops. Some times you pay more in the long run. Hope you get it sorted out. Not sure how you will manage your anxiety problems when dealing with this car. I sure hope you're not planning to heavily modify your evo. You will need an olympic swimming pool to contain the amount of vomit you will be doing.
The sad part is I was essentially done. FA500 Coil Overs, upgraded rotors, a cat back and a intake + tuned. It's not the speed or power that makes me anxious (very appreciative that Evo's have a lot of head room, because that helps a lot in comparison to an FRS) it's the car no operating how I want it to, not knowing if I'm in gear, if I rool back too far because the clutch doesn't catch etc
 

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The sad part is I was essentially done. FA500 Coil Overs, upgraded rotors, a cat back and a intake + tuned. It's not the speed or power that makes me anxious (very appreciative that Evo's have a lot of head room, because that helps a lot in comparison to an FRS) it's the car no operating how I want it to, not knowing if I'm in gear, if I rool back too far because the clutch doesn't catch etc

I think you missed the point I was making lol. The more you mod the evo the higher the chance something IS going to break. Your clutch problem is very very minor. Get the car over to an evo shop and get it resolved and be happy :)

The evo can be an emotional roller coaster. Maybe not just the evo, but mod lyfe over all.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do know how that shit works because I learned from my dad's experience with his MR-2

That's why I only wanted to go this far, I didn't want to go that far down the rabbit hole
 

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I have the CM400/aluminum flywheel/Evo9 cmc upgrade in my EvoX and my pedal doesn't feel all that different from stock. How many miles did you get out of the CM400? It really does sound like the CMC wasn't set right, you shouldn't have the pedal problems you've described. ---With that in mind--- there is probably a good chance that something wasn't installed right with the clutch in the first place causing a premature failure. Mine has been fine with 550whp for about 15k ABUSIVE miles. Another friend has about 40k miles on the CM400 with around 450whp in an evo8 without any issues too.


Sorry you have to deal with this crap man, it really sucks.
 

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A lot of people have reported that the master cyl swap puts their pedal in a higher position and is more like an "on-off" switch. Which makes me wonder if the IX master is a larger bore than the X stock master.
 

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A lot of people have reported that the master cyl swap puts their pedal in a higher position and is more like an "on-off" switch. Which makes me wonder if the IX master is a larger bore than the X stock master.
I've seen alot of the same thing too.

If your car is essentially done and set up the way you want it, it would honestly be more cost effective to just get the CMC fixed and keep the car instead of buying something else and fixing it up the way you want.
 

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I've seen alot of the same thing too.

If your car is essentially done and set up the way you want it, it would honestly be more cost effective to just get the CMC fixed and keep the car instead of buying something else and fixing it up the way you want.
The pedal pivot can always be modified, to allow a "slower" release of the clutch and drop the pedal down a little at the same time.
 

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I tried, I can't get used to it. It's way too high, and now there's zero feedback when I'm actually in gear or not. What's worst is Inhave really bad anxiety problems which doesn't help - relevant because I throw up in the car whether I have anything in my stomach or not. I need to be sure that the car is in gear because I don't have the money for another clutch or install, and I'm sick of having to use a vomit bucket in the passenger seat.

The mechanic I took it too has it all the way adjusted already. That's why I reached out to another mechanic for a second opinion and he said it's set incorrectly. The problem is I can't get my days off to match my sister's so she can help me drive it almost 2 hours away to his shop.
One thing I would also do is to remove the clutch pill from your line. It's a small little plastic piece that makes the clutch engage a lot softer all the time.

This only helps if you're not used to using a clutch to engage properly (to prevent harsh drivetrain torque), but it also can glaze your clutch which can drastically reduce the life of your clutch.

It's one of the many causes of why Evo X clutches don't last as long either, because it always tries to smoothen the engagement of your clutch, regardless of how hard you dump it. It's even worse if you're up on a hill, because it'll cause your clutch to burn like crazy while you're trying to gas it to prevent roll-back too.

If I were you, try removing the clutch pill first, and you might realize that the car is more responsive with your clutch pedal feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have the CM400/aluminum flywheel/Evo9 cmc upgrade in my EvoX and my pedal doesn't feel all that different from stock. How many miles did you get out of the CM400? It really does sound like the CMC wasn't set right, you shouldn't have the pedal problems you've described. ---With that in mind--- there is probably a good chance that something wasn't installed right with the clutch in the first place causing a premature failure. Mine has been fine with 550whp for about 15k ABUSIVE miles. Another friend has about 40k miles on the CM400 with around 450whp in an evo8 without any issues too.


Sorry you have to deal with this crap man, it really sucks.
I got 5000 miles out of it, just daily driving. I don't dump the clutch or do anything extreme. The burn marks on the disks was actually a huge sigh of relief for me, because it proved I wasn't imagining things
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The cmc pedal high is adjustable:
"Additionally, pedal height is easily adjustable by breaking loose the jam nut, removing the clip, and threading the balljoint to your desired pedal height."

Listed right here:
https://www.maperformance.com/products/maperformance-clutch-master-cylinder-upgrade-mitsubishi-evo-x

I have this and aside from additional pressure, the pedal feels stock. They did not adjust it correctly during the install.
This is the one I have in the Evo right now: https://www.maperformance.com/products/ams-clutch-master-cylinder-upgrade-kit-with-master-cylinder-mitsubishi-evo-x?variant=5343902403&gclid=CjwKCAiAlajvBRB_EiwA4vAqiD6nlQ-7cpdL5b9B6jMNvNbMVYSmqulyDiWQHN8o0DRWaRBgTAHmhRoCpH0QAvD_BwE

Mechanic B (won't use drag the mans name over this) had it adjusted all the way down that he could.

Mechanic C from another shop took one look at the pic I took with my phone and he said it def wasn't adjusted right. He's currently too far for me to be able to drive to so hopefully Mechanic GB will be able to diagnose what exactly went wrong, especially since he has the rep of being the Bay Area Evo Expert
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One thing I would also do is to remove the clutch pill from your line. It's a small little plastic piece that makes the clutch engage a lot softer all the time.

This only helps if you're not used to using a clutch to engage properly (to prevent harsh drivetrain torque), but it also can glaze your clutch which can drastically reduce the life of your clutch.

It's one of the many causes of why Evo X clutches don't last as long either, because it always tries to smoothen the engagement of your clutch, regardless of how hard you dump it. It's even worse if you're up on a hill, because it'll cause your clutch to burn like crazy while you're trying to gas it to prevent roll-back too.

If I were you, try removing the clutch pill first, and you might realize that the car is more responsive with your clutch pedal feel.
I'll give this a shot when I can save up some money, thank you, good tip.

Are clutch pills normal on most cars? I grew up on AE86s and 1st Gen MR-2s. Moved up to an FR-S and then the Evo, and only the Evo I had this kind of driving problems with the clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I've seen alot of the same thing too.

If your car is essentially done and set up the way you want it, it would honestly be more cost effective to just get the CMC fixed and keep the car instead of buying something else and fixing it up the way you want.
Even if I kept going back OEM, the frequency of having to do so would rack up quickly wouldn't it? I heard that upgraded clutches blow out the CMCs quickly
When I put the ACT clutch in and before the CMC upgrade went in, the engagement point was slowly slipping further on its own. CNC went in, now I burn the clutch doing something as simple as starting up hill, drive thrus, etc.
 
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