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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So let me give everyone the full story. Bought the car a year ago, and it obviously had some mods on it. A few months after buying it the engine went boom and literally sprayed oil on my windshield. So I have now spent around 15 grand rebuilding the motor. Had it rebuilt buy MAPerformance and it now has all the parts listed in my sig. My issue is I feel like it does not have the power it should. I have everything I need to tune and log the car and have on an ongoing basis been adjusting the tune a little here and there to first of all get rid of knock, which seems to be impossible because no matter what I do it seems to always want to knock even if its just a little. And since it is knocking I am afraid to increase boost or timing to get more power out of it. If someone could take a look at a few of my logs and my tune it would be much appreciated. Let me know what I am doing wrong. According to VD I am getting somewhere around 315 to 335 HP on 93 octane at 25 pounds boost. Thanks for any help that can be givin.

PS. The attached file named 10042012.csg is actually my tune, I had to change the extension to a .csv to upload it so you will just have to change the extension back to a .bin to view it in openECU or whatever program you use.
 

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YOu have way too little timing top end. Your WB cuts in and out.

Without seeing the maps its hard to make a judgement.

So let me give everyone the full story. Bought the car a year ago, and it obviously had some mods on it. A few months after buying it the engine went boom and literally sprayed oil on my windshield. So I have now spent around 15 grand rebuilding the motor. Had it rebuilt buy MAPerformance and it now has all the parts listed in my sig. My issue is I feel like it does not have the power it should. I have everything I need to tune and log the car and have on an ongoing basis been adjusting the tune a little here and there to first of all get rid of knock, which seems to be impossible because no matter what I do it seems to always want to knock even if its just a little. And since it is knocking I am afraid to increase boost or timing to get more power out of it. If someone could take a look at a few of my logs and my tune it would be much appreciated. Let me know what I am doing wrong. According to VD I am getting somewhere around 315 to 335 HP on 93 octane at 25 pounds boost. Thanks for any help that can be givin.

PS. The attached file named 10042012.csg is actually my tune, I had to change the extension to a .csv to upload it so you will just have to change the extension back to a .bin to view it in openECU or whatever program you use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the wideband is fine

the maps need a lot of work
Can you be more specific? which maps need adjustment and what needs to be adjusted? Is it really that far off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
at least MIVEC and timing
Mivec needs to be advanced? Retarded? Both? I'm worried if I start advancing my ignition timing I will start to get alot of knock, as you can see from the logs I am already getting a few counts. Does the Mivec need to be advanced on the intake side more in the higher RPM higher load cells? It has been my understanding that this could cause too much overlap and actually hinder performance, and even cause compressor surge, eventually leading to turbo damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You are tuning yourself for the first time?
Sort of, after the engine was rebuilt it was installed and tuned by a shop in NY, but I wasn't totally satisfied with how it felt. It actually felt a little slower then it was before the engine was rebuilt. Also, after the rebuild, one of my cams ended up needing to be replaced so I had the upgraded GSC S1's installed. So, I decided to just buy the Tactrix and try tuning it myself, and after a few months of reading on the forums and going through Merlins tuning guide about 50 times I went ahead and started adjusting the tune myself, not making huge changes, just adjusting the timing a little and the AFR tables a little, and the Mivec tables, but I haven't really noticed much of a difference in power, and can not seem to shake off the knock. No matter what, it always seems to knock at least once or twice, even with the timing as low as it is right now.
 

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Mivec needs to be advanced? Retarded? Both? I'm worried if I start advancing my ignition timing I will start to get alot of knock, as you can see from the logs I am already getting a few counts. Does the Mivec need to be advanced on the intake side more in the higher RPM higher load cells? It has been my understanding that this could cause too much overlap and actually hinder performance, and even cause compressor surge, eventually leading to turbo damage.
Hey man,

I'm sorry to say but you are not experienced enough to tune this car properly. The reason why your car is picking up knock is likely because the forged internals of your new engine make the engine sound different. Often with built engines the knock noise multiplier maps need to be tweaked in order to accommodate for these changes. If you don't have experience doing this, it's really in your best interest to let someone with experience do this for you.

One easy and sure-fire way to eliminate the false knock given your situation is to fill up with race gas. If you do this, and your knock still doesn't go away then you know for pretty much certain your knock is phantom knock. You should be able to run a LOT more timing than you currently are. I honestly believe you need to choose a reputable tuner in person, or over the web, and get it tuned right. Use what they teach you, and what you have on your car as a stepping stone to learning how to tune.

You've invested too much to fuck this up to be honest, and what I am explaining to you are still very basic concepts. There is a lot to tuning a built engine properly. Perhaps you should make the drive to Speed Circuit and let Dino take care of you?
 

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Mivec needs to be advanced? Retarded? Both? I'm worried if I start advancing my ignition timing I will start to get alot of knock, as you can see from the logs I am already getting a few counts. Does the Mivec need to be advanced on the intake side more in the higher RPM higher load cells? It has been my understanding that this could cause too much overlap and actually hinder performance, and even cause compressor surge, eventually leading to turbo damage.
Its not just that it has to be revised, it has to be re-done completely.
 

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Bingo^^^^^^^^

send chet an email along with some paypal monies. and go from there. he'll set you right.
either that or pm bakaunchi, hollywood, golden or clipse. whats a few extra hundred dollars when you already spent 15g's
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey man,

I'm sorry to say but you are not experienced enough to tune this car properly. The reason why your car is picking up knock is likely because the forged internals of your new engine make the engine sound different. Often with built engines the knock noise multiplier maps need to be tweaked in order to accommodate for these changes. If you don't have experience doing this, it's really in your best interest to let someone with experience do this for you.

One easy and sure-fire way to eliminate the false knock given your situation is to fill up with race gas. If you do this, and your knock still doesn't go away then you know for pretty much certain your knock is phantom knock. You should be able to run a LOT more timing than you currently are. I honestly believe you need to choose a reputable tuner in person, or over the web, and get it tuned right. Use what they teach you, and what you have on your car as a stepping stone to learning how to tune.

You've invested too much to fuck this up to be honest, and what I am explaining to you are still very basic concepts. There is a lot to tuning a built engine properly. Perhaps you should make the drive to Speed Circuit and let Dino take care of you?
Is there anyone near the Baltimore area that's trustworthy? Who could I ask that would help me online?
 

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ChetRickerman, Golden, BakaUnchi, Clipse, Hollywood.

they all have a reputation on here and you cant go wrong choosing any of them.

i was skeptical with letting someone else program my ecu but im totally happy with chets results and professionalism. he does a great job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Its not just that it has to be revised, it has to be re-done completely.
This is something that you could do remotely? How much do you charge? Don't you need to be with the car to properly tune, especially if your adjusting the knock multiplier?
 

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A tuner can do everything based off of logs, that you already do. Just as you look at them and adjust things, so will the etuner, he just wont be the guy driving it for the logs...he is doing the exact same thing youre already doing except driving it.
 

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The map is a little rough.

Chet may just be trying to sell you a tune.

You can still do this on your own. Take a look at the Gunzo maps. They are a good starting point.

There are good E-Tuners out there, if you chose to go down that route. You are going to want one that is experienced with built engines. They can get complicated. (Depending on what was done.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think part of my problem is that I have been trying to tune out what is most likely false knock and I need to start by adjusting my knock multiplier, but of course I 1. Dont even see those tables in my bin file, and 2. Have no idea how to correctly adjust the tables if I had them to get rid of the false knock. I don't want to set them wrong and cause real knock not to show up. I have been reading that you should use a Det can to do this. Could this even be done with an E-tune?
 
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