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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guy,

I am a bit frustrated at this point with my car its been built twice and at this point I have about 300 miles on the new motor. Ive been getting the high low idle issue but only when the car is fully warmed up and I have driven it for 5-10 minutes. Ive done everything check for vacuum leaks, pulled the valve cover to check for damage on cam gear cover, everything is fine.

I installed an oil pressure gauge and drove the car, cold start was around 80psi, then dropped to around 25psi. I started to drive it around and once the I came to idle and the rpms started to drop I noticed the oil pressure was below 10psi. This happened multiple times, I took the car back and change the oil to 15w50 and the issue was the same, oil pressure was the same and it would still drop causing the car to stutter and want to die.

I also have a log I took of the car before the oil pressure gauge that shows the exhausting cam going to -27 before stalling out. Im not sure what else I can do, the oil has very tiny almost dust like particles in it that can only be seen when I move it around, they are so small it looks like what happens during a regular built motor break in as the piston walls and bearings are breaking in. Im not sure what else I can do Ive been told to raise the rpm at idle to 1000 but if the issue is mechanical then that will only put a bandaid on the real issue.

I really dont want to pay for another build so any help would be greatly appreciated.
I will also attach the log below.
 

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If you have that low of oil pressure. You may have some bad rod bearings. As said above though. You need an oil analysis to determine what metal those "dust particles" actually are

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Discussion Starter #5
The only reason I don't think it is a bearing issue is because last build the engine spun a rod bearing on the dyno because of a bent crankshaft. The crank was replaced with all of the bearings as well as the rod. So I am a little skeptical that it will be the same issue this time.
 

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Just go onto the Blackstone website and request a kit be sent to you. Fill it with oil, fill out the little card with info. The sens it off.

Blackstone will then analyze the pil. Give you universal averages, and your numbers. They also provide a little explanation of what is going on.

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The only reason I don't think it is a bearing issue is because last build the engine spun a rod bearing on the dyno because of a bent crankshaft. The crank was replaced with all of the bearings as well as the rod. So I am a little skeptical that it will be the same issue this time.
Did they replace the oil cooler when they redid the block
 

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Has the cam phaser been replaced yet? They seem to be made of glass and love to break after any head-end work.

Sending off the oil for testing is a good idea, you don't want metal particles floating around throughout the block creating restrictions and clogging passages. This is where turismolover22 was going with the oil cooler. If any leftovers from the bent crank aftermath were not properly removed/flushed before the new build then you are going to have problems.

I would take it to a different shop and have them check the timing and timing chain for stretch.

Is the same shop that did the rebuild the one that was doing the original tuning that lead to the crank issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cam housing has no cracks I inspected it. The particles in the oil are invisible until you run a finger through the oil and disturb it in some way to show microscopic metallic flakes, I really dont believe this is the problem since these were in the oil when the engine was first built and the oil was changed after 500 miles of break in and the builder said it was normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I also dont believe it is an oil pressure issue causing this problem, since I pulled the cam bearing cap and it is in perfect condition with no scratches at all.
 
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