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Need recommendations on my next upgrade journey

4K views 39 replies 6 participants last post by  EvoXtope 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all! I'm planning on upgrading my stock turbo. I'm thinking of getting MHI 18K together with few more bolt-ons like intercooler, downpipe and gauges. My Boss (wife) only gave me permission to spend maximum of $4K labor/retune included. LOL :) If my budget won't be enough for these upgrades, I might just get coilovers and new wheels....

My question is, will my current mods work with upgrade plan? or do I have to upgrade my current Injectors, pump, etc.?

My current mods are:
K&N DROP-IN FILTER
AMS UICP
MXP TEST PIPE
GS 3 PORT SOLENOID
E85 FLEX CONVERTER
WALBRO 255LPH
FIC 1100 INJECTORS
BLAQ OPS FUEL PUMP KIT
NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUGS
HKS HI-POWER DUAL EXHAUST
T U N E D

Other recommendations on how I will get the best bang for my buck are very welcome!
 
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#3 ·
Well, a tune is probably around $500..
Intercooler- $650
Downpipe- $450
Turbo- $1800

So that doesn't leave a ton of room for gauges.. But it's possible. But with E85, you might have to run bigger injectors.
Thanks! Yeah I figured :( plus installation labor. I can install the intercooler myself but not the turbo and downpipe.

Maybe ill skip the intercooler.
 
#4 ·
Buy you intercooler 2nd hand, or when they have a sale.

Same with the downpipe

I don't see that with your cuurent mods, you couldn't keep the new mod budget under 4k. You've already purchased a lot, and if she is willing to allow you another 4k, I think its do-able. If you plan to do e85/flex fuel, I would recommend a minimum 1200cc injectors. You will also need the flex fuel sensor setup as well, plug and play kits are approx 400
 
#6 ·
Buy you intercooler 2nd hand, or when they have a sale.

Same with the downpipe

I don't see that with your cuurent mods, you couldn't keep the new mod budget under 4k. You've already purchased a lot, and if she is willing to allow you another 4k, I think its do-able. If you plan to do e85/flex fuel, I would recommend a minimum 1200cc injectors. You will also need the flex fuel sensor setup as well, plug and play kits are approx 400
Thanks! Yes i thinks its a good idea to look for a used but good condition IC and DP. Im already on flex fuel and uses e85 80% of the time. E85 is just 9 mins away from home.
 
#8 ·
Like the others said you should get bigger injectors for e85. As for the IC and DP I was on a tight budget and got a Depo IC(350$) and DP(180$). Haven't had any problems at around 500whp(dynojet) as of yet granted that I haven't taken the car to the circuit yet. Used good quality parts is also a good option like the others mentioned.

I'd also get a bigger turbo for 450-480 on a mustang. Maybe go for TPC GT or GT-R spec turbos since they can make over 500 on a mustang comfortably with e85.

Though if I were to do it again I would probably save for an EFR turbo kit(EFR 8474 or 9274) since you will always want more power down the line;), they also spool really quick for the power they make. IF you build your block you can at least keep the EFR and make 700+ easily, but if you don't intend to go further I'd try the TPC turbos. Xona rotor turbos seem to be getting popular as well.

If you have another car maybe try doing the labor yourself? It will be a good learning experience.
 
#9 ·
Like the others said you should get bigger injectors for e85. As for the IC and DP I was on a tight budget and got a Depo IC(350$) and DP(180$). Haven't had any problems at around 500whp(dynojet) as of yet granted that I haven't taken the car to the circuit yet. Used good quality parts is also a good option like the others mentioned.

I'd also get a bigger turbo for 450-480 on a mustang. Maybe go for TPC GT or GT-R spec turbos since they can make over 500 on a mustang comfortably with e85.

Though if I were to do it again I would probably save for an EFR turbo kit(EFR 8474 or 9274) since you will always want more power down the line;), they also spool really quick for the power they make. IF you build your block you can at least keep the EFR and make 700+ easily, but if you don't intend to go further I'd try the TPC turbos. Xona rotor turbos seem to be getting popular as well.

If you have another car maybe try doing the labor yourself? It will be a good learning experience.
Wow thanks for the advice. I've been looking online for used parts but can't seem to find anyone selling near me.(Campbell, CA). Ill look into those turbos you recommended. I would really try installing those mods if i can. Issue is currently, i dont have a garage/driveway:cry:. Based on everyone's input, ill upgrade my injectors.
 
#15 ·

Ohlins are the best if you can swing it..
 
#17 ·
wow! I checked the price of Ohlins. $2500! I think ill just go with BC or FA.... Not planning on going to track all the time. Maybe 1 or 2 times a year. :) If I get a good deal on turbo, I might also just consider lowering springs for now until I have enough $$$$ for a good coilovers. My stock height's kinda starting to hurt my eyes! LOL
 
#18 ·
If you don't track it much you could look into H&R, Greddy x KW, HKS, etc coilovers. They bridge the gap between the Ohlins and have significantly better ride than BC or FA coilovers. You could also wait for used Ohlins to pop up. I remember some popped up on the Evo X facebook page last month or something.

Lowering springs work too, but it will act kind of funny without revalved shocks.
 
#20 ·
If you don't track it much you could look into H&R, Greddy x KW, HKS, etc coilovers. They bridge the gap between the Ohlins and have significantly better ride than BC or FA coilovers. You could also wait for used Ohlins to pop up. I remember some popped up on the Evo X facebook page last month or something.

Lowering springs work too, but it will act kind of funny without revalved shocks.
Yeah I check facebook market and craigslist hundred times a day LOL! Not planning on using lowering springs permanently. Just until I have budget to get good coils. ill also get 15 or 20mm spacers, while waiting until I find a wheel that i like.
 
#19 · (Edited)
OP, my X is my daily. i dont plan on tracking my car either but handling is important to me so the DSG package fits the bill for me. like i said for 400 more it comes with FA500's with upgrade 9k/9k SWIFT spring rates, whiteline front/rear sway bars, whitelines front/rear endlinks, whiteline adjustable toe arms and whiteline roll centering kit.

If you want affordable i would say Apexi N1 ExV coilovers. There's someone on this forum that by the name of Razorlab, very knowledgeable guy knows his stuff, and he recommended these to me as a budget coilover setup. These are 8k/8k i believe. This is what he had on his X before he went on to ohlins. He posted better lap times with Apexi's compared to KW's with the setups that come out of the box. Just another option. this can be had for less than 1k
 
#22 ·
I don't want to start another thread for this question. And still related to my upgrade planning.

with my current mods, will I pass smog here in california? I heard people passed with HFC, exhaust, with E85.
If I add the following upgrades, is it going to be zero percent chance? What do you guys do to pass? reinstall some stuff back (which ones). I need to know before I pull the trigger because Next year is going to be my cars 7th birthday. I think DMV will start requiring it to be smogged. Bought it bnew on 2014.

Here are the mods I'm planning on getting that might/will hurt the emission results.
-AMS Wide mouth Downpipe
-GSC S2 cams (combined w/ beehive springs)
-MHI-18K turbo

For those who live here in california, how do you pass smog with all your mods?
 
#23 · (Edited)
unless you know a guy that can look passed the visual inspection thats going to be tough. Especially in california. If not, you will fail visual with any sight of aftermarket parts. i have read, for example, the AMS logo on the upper intercooler pipe if it is the CNC logo. if its the sticker, remove that and youll have a better chance. If your intake isnt CARB legal, itll fail. and 1000% percent will fail if they see you dont have athr stock cat UNLESS you convince them that the HFC they are looking at is the cat. im not trying to scare you man but its really hard here. so many threads talking about this stuff that are worth looking up. comes down to how lucky you are. if they dont care about visual and you pass the emissions side then count your lucky stars. some people revert to stock or atleast put the stock cat and change their tunes to pass. once they do they throw everything back on. im sure theres an easier way

my car is stock minus a catback. my smog is due in september so im waiting til after to throw all my parts and get tuned. that way ill have two years until i worry about what to do.
 
#25 ·
dang, I wish i can move to a different state that are less strict when it comes to mods. I grew up in the Philippines, and we can do whatever we wanted there with our cars! we can pass smog without even bringing the car. Even a blind person can get a driver's license there!! Not to mention when you get caught drag racing, all you need is $10 and the cops will go away! but that was then.....HAHAHA!
 
#26 ·
yeah man, Living in california is great weather, beaches, etc but when it comes to cars its the absolute worst. another thing people do is register their cars in different states with less restrictive emissions laws like Montana for example. but that has its own set of drawbacks.
 
#27 ·
But im guessing upgrading the turbo does not have negative effect on emission,right?

I want more power, but i dont want to have TOO much trouble during emission. Switching the CATH and UICP are easy to do. But DP and CAMS are both pain removing.

Is it still worth it to upgrade turbo without upgrading DP and CAMS?
 
#28 ·
Definitely won't pass smog, with the mhi turbo u most likely will get away with leaving it on(as it looks stock and won't flag any codes) but everything else you're going to have to swap back to oem, plus oem tune or find someone that does it illegal
As far as cams and downpipe, cams aren't needed but definitely get a downpipe
 
#32 ·
You can honestly run the stock exhaust system with an upgraded turbo. You won't get every bit out of it, but it is a compromise that will more or less hide mods.

You can also go the route Bryan (Razorlab) went, and have all your exhaust components heat shielded with ATP WRAP. It's an inconel shielding more or less identical to "turbosource" shielding and gives the components an OEM look. It's generally enough to fool just about every visual inspector. Here is a link to the turbosource site so you get an idea of what I'm referring to. The ATP WRAP company seems to be a little more affordable.

TurboSource Inconel Shielding
 
#34 ·
You can honestly run the stock exhaust system with an upgraded turbo. You won't get every bit out of it, but it is a compromise that will more or less hide mods.

You can also go the route Bryan (Razorlab) went, and have all your exhaust components heat shielded with ATP WRAP. It's an inconel shielding more or less identical to "turbosource" shielding and gives the components an OEM look. It's generally enough to fool just about every visual inspector. Here is a link to the turbosource site so you get an idea of what I'm referring to. The ATP WRAP company seems to be a little more affordable.

TurboSource Inconel Shielding
Thanks! Thats a good idea! I think ill change my exhaust to something more quiet...🤫
 
#35 ·
yoooo i knew those coilovers, wheels, and ams goodies looked familiar. i follow you on IG haha. if you really want to focus and complete the handling aspect then sway bars. as for the exhaust you can do an ETS quiet. if you want a single exit i think a slight step up from that would be a STM exhaust. i have that on now and i really like it. not obnoxiously loud like say a tomei exhaust.
 
#36 ·
hahaha thanks for the follow!! i got the coils installed. its my first coilover but im pretty happy with it. car handles good and the ride is better that stock. I still want to add more powah tho.... LOL. i might lower the car a little bit more this weekend. I watched some clips on youtube about the ETS quiet.... nice sound, definitely less noise than my hks.
 
#37 ·
287043

UPDATE: pulled trigger on MHI 18K(waiting to be shipped), AMS DP, and AEM x-series gauges.

QUESTIONS: does the MHI 18K includes gaskets? What other parts do i need to order? bolts, nuts, gaskets? Im am also thinking if i should get MAP cast manifold?
Thanks!
 
#38 · (Edited)
I would recommend the MAP manifold. If you can find a used one that would be nice since they are pricey.

I don’t know what the 18K includes but you will need a lot of gaskets and stuff. For the more expensive gaskets like the turbo to manifold and downpipe, there are cheaper aftermarket options instead of the overpriced OEM ones. Same for the exhaust manifold gasket.

I would keep these parts on hand. Some of them you might not need but it helps to be prepared.
  • Turbo oil drain o-ring and paper gasket
  • Turbo compressor oulet and inlet gasket
  • New oil feed line since old one might break or have contaminants(braided ones for easy install)
  • Banjo bolt crush washers(for oil feed and coolant lines)
  • Turbo to manifold gasket (old one might be reusable)
  • Turbo to downpipe gasket (old one might be reusable)
  • Exhaust manifold gasket (again may be reuseable depending on condition)
  • new exhaust manifold studs and nuts if needed.
  • Downpipe stud(optional)
  • Turbo coolant lines (if old ones break)
  • Some form of lock washers that is not a split washer.(nord locks, belleville washers, stage 8 etc)
  • Bunch of bolts because you might lose or snap the old ones.
  • Change the oil
  • A lot of patience(if you live where they salt roads in winter)
 
#39 · (Edited)
I would recommend the MAP manifold. If you can find a used one that would be nice since they are pricey.

I don’t know what the 18K includes but you will need a lot of gaskets and stuff. For the more expensive gaskets like the turbo to manifold and downpipe, there are cheaper aftermarket options instead of the overpriced OEM ones. Same for the exhaust manifold gasket.

I would keep these parts on hand. Some of them you might not need but it helps to be prepared.
  • Turbo oil drain o-ring and paper gasket
  • Turbo compressor oulet and inlet gasket
  • New oil feed line since old one might break or have contaminants(braided ones for easy install)
  • Banjor bolt crush washers(for oil drain and coolant lines)
  • Turbo to manifold gasket (old one might be reusable)
  • Turbo to downpipe gasket (old one might be reusable)
  • Exhaust manifold gasket (again may be reuseable depending on condition)
  • new exhaust manifold studs and nuts if needed.
  • Downpipe stud(optional)
  • Turbo coolant lines (if old ones break)
  • Some form of lock washers that is not a split washer.(nord locks, belleville washers, stage 8 etc)
  • Bunch of bolts because you might lose or snap the old ones.
  • Change the oil
  • A lot of patience(if you live where they salt roads in winter)
Thank you so much for the detailed info. I didnt realized i need a lot more parts to order.
I think ill get the MAP manifold. Ive seen alot of stock manifold cracking.
 
#40 ·
UPDATE: THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND RECOMMENDATIONS YOU GUYS GAVE ME! finally after 3 1/2 months, everythings bought, installed, and ready for a tune this week. Ended up spending more than double of my original budget, but im happy with it.

HOW MUCH WHP (mustang) DO YOU GUYS THINK I WILL MAKE AFTER GETTING A RETUNE?

Currently 380 with old mods:
K&N DROP-IN FILTER
AMS UICP
MXP TEST PIPE
GS 3 PORT SOLENOID
E85 FLEX CONVERTER
WALBRO 255LPH
FIC 1100 INJECTORS
BLAQ OPS FUEL PUMP KIT
NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUGS
HKS HI-POWER DUAL EXHAUST
T U N E D

NEW MODS:
MHI 18K TURBO
WALBRO 450 FUEL PUMP
MAP CAST MANIFOLD
AMS DOWNPIPE
AMS INTAKE
AMS INTERCOOLER
ETS LICP
287156
287157

287159

287160
 
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