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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I need some advice and would love to hear people's experience with these turbos I'm thinking about.

My motor is getting built right now (ran it low on oil like an idiot:imstupid:) and so I decided I might as well get a bigger turbo now while it's being worked on. My tuner asked me what I wanted out of the car and since I was a kid I've wanted a stupid fast evo. So we said 500whp or so. He suggested an FP Black which I was all for! It's been over 2 months now and I have all the parts except the turbo and my tuner is saying FP is taking way to long to build this turbo and I should be thinking about maybe getting a different turbo now.

Now I have so many options I don't know what to do. Either wait for the Black (tuner also knows someone who builds turbos and can build a turbo similar to the Black within 3 weeks) or get another stock frame turbo like a GTX, or Dominator. Or go with a T3 set up either a 6266 or 6466. Or the EFR kits like the 8374. Or maybe an AMS 750xp with a 5858.

I've never had a big turbo car so I'm not sure which turbo I'd like best. I've only been on a stock turbo so I'm not used to lag. I've read a ton about all these turbos and still can't decide! I would really love advice from people who have experience with any of them.

I have a truck that I usually drive around so this won't be my daily but I also don't go around looking to race people. I have a heavy foot tho and like to do pulls here and there and play the car like an instrument sometimes and hit the back roads. I'm 24 now so I don't really drive crazy anymore, I just wanna get pushed back in my seat a few times each car ride and maybe an occasional roll race with some lol

Also what do you guys think about getting a used turbo kit? My build is already about $8,000+ without the turbo, so I'm trying to save money any way I can.
 

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You need cams, dont make the mistake of building the motor and upgrading the turbo without cams--get S2s, Kelford B or AMS TMP. And you'll need GSC springs.

I didnt know FP is still making the Black, I would get the ATP Gen 2 GTX 3576. IMO this is the perfect turbo for the Evo X, I love mine. Easy to install, spools fast and tons of power. I'm neck and neck with C7 ZO6s and Gen 5 Vipers on the straights. If not the 3576, I'd get the FR EFR 8374, but that's a different ballgame with a lot more heat and welded parts that can crack.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You need cams, dont make the mistake of building the motor and upgrading the turbo without cams--get S2s, Kelford B or AMS TMP. And you'll need GSC springs.

I didnt know FP is still making the Black, I would get the ATP Gen 2 GTX 3576. IMO this is the perfect turbo for the Evo X, I love mine. Easy to install, spools fast and tons of power. I'm neck and neck with C7 ZO6s and Gen 5 Vipers on the straights. If not the 3576, I'd get the FR EFR 8374, but that's a different ballgame with a lot more heat and welded parts that can crack.
My tuner said I don't "need" cams to get to my goals. It would benefit me but he said the stock cams are good enough. FP Black is discontinued but he has connections to get it made, but it's taking too long so I told him to cancel that.

I have not heard anything good about the GTX turbos so I already crossed that off the list.

I'm going EFR...Hopefully by the end of the day I'll make my final decision between the EFR7670 or EFR8374. I'm just trying to figure out which one will suit me best, they're both amazing turbos!
 

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You need cams, dont make the mistake of building the motor and upgrading the turbo without cams--get S2s, Kelford B or AMS TMP. And you'll need GSC springs.

I didnt know FP is still making the Black, I would get the ATP Gen 2 GTX 3576. IMO this is the perfect turbo for the Evo X, I love mine. Easy to install, spools fast and tons of power. I'm neck and neck with C7 ZO6s and Gen 5 Vipers on the straights. If not the 3576, I'd get the FR EFR 8374, but that's a different ballgame with a lot more heat and welded parts that can crack.
There are a few places out there that will make a turbo to a "red" or "Black" spec turbo. It may not be a legit brand new FP black, but it will be sized close or to the same specs as such.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just wanted to give an update that I made my decision last week. I went with an EFR 8374 IWG .92 A/R kit from Full Race! It was $5,700 but I think it'll be worth it. I was told it should get here within 5-6 weeks :/ my tuner is going to start my motor build next week
I'll do my best to inform the community what my thoughts are with this turbo, as well as a dyno sheet so maybe one day it'll help someone with the same questions I had. Thank you everyone who replied.
 
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It's redonkulous not to upgrade your cams while your building a motor. You are already paying for all the labor, just pony up another $600 for a set of cams.

if you don't want cam lope, get a set of Kelford 214-B's. You can't even tell the car has cams and they make good power.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It's redonkulous not to upgrade your cams while your building a motor. You are already paying for all the labor, just pony up another $600 for a set of cams.

if you don't want cam lope, get a set of Kelford 214-B's. You can't even tell the car has cams and they make good power.
If it was that much than sure but he told me that if I do cams I need springs, if I get those I should get buckets, he kept going on till it was the entire head lol. This turbo will make more than the power I'm after so I don't need cams to get to that power level at least. I'm at 12k in parts only... I have no idea what labor will be so I'm already way over my budget
 

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If it was that much than sure but he told me that if I do cams I need springs, if I get those I should get buckets, he kept going on till it was the entire head lol. This turbo will make more than the power I'm after so I don't need cams to get to that power level at least. I'm at 12k in parts only... I have no idea what labor will be so I'm already way over my budget



I understand needing to draw the line somewhere when it comes to budget, but he really could have stopped at cams/springs/retainers/buckets.



Bigger cam and stronger springs would have helped that bigger turbo breathe and let you rev out past the OEM redline. They match up very nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I understand needing to draw the line somewhere when it comes to budget, but he really could have stopped at cams/springs/retainers/buckets.



Bigger cam and stronger springs would have helped that bigger turbo breathe and let you rev out past the OEM redline. They match up very nice.
And how much would that have been? He said I might as well do the the rest of the head at that point and it would be at least another 2-3k
 

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Cams ~$650
Springs/Retainers ~$350
OEM Buckets ~$300


It adds up quick, and that's just in parts.


I'm not sure the gains are worth the extra cost to do the rest of the head right now. Whats left? Porting and larger valves? Not really worth it for you just yet. Cams and springs make notable changes to the power band and how the engine behaves compared to OEM.
 
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If it was that much than sure but he told me that if I do cams I need springs, if I get those I should get buckets, he kept going on till it was the entire head lol. This turbo will make more than the power I'm after so I don't need cams to get to that power level at least. I'm at 12k in parts only... I have no idea what labor will be so I'm already way over my budget
12k in parts? My 900-1000hp capable sleeved motor didn't cost that much in parts.

No need for all new buckets. I reused all mine and they are all checked to spec with the new cams.

Either way, your choice, I think it's dumb not to add cams while the whole motor is apart but hey... whatever.. ;)

As an aside, my motor makes easy power, 540whp at 24psi, 640whp at 29psi. Good builds make good power.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
12k in parts? My 900-1000hp capable sleeved motor didn't cost that much in parts.

No need for all new buckets. I reused all mine and they are all checked to spec with the new cams.

Either way, your choice, I think it's dumb not to add cams while the whole motor is apart but hey... whatever.. ;)

As an aside, my motor makes easy power, 540whp at 24psi, 640whp at 29psi. Good builds make good power.
$5,000 for forged engine parts, oil parts etc (had rod knock) I think that includes labor I'm not sure. $500 for a used OEM crank. $800 for like new set of ID1700x's. $200 for downpipe (now not needed anymore) $6,000 for EFR 8374 turbo kit from Full Race. That right there is $12,500. I'm not sure how much labor will cost either, I had no idea it would be even be close to this price, everyone told me like $3,000-4,000 but just to rebuild my motor, lets say I kept the stock turbo and went with forged internals he quoted me $8,500
 

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$5,000 for forged engine parts, oil parts etc (had rod knock) I think that includes labor I'm not sure. $500 for a used OEM crank. $800 for like new set of ID1700x's. $200 for downpipe (now not needed anymore) $6,000 for EFR 8374 turbo kit from Full Race. That right there is $12,500. I'm not sure how much labor will cost either, I had no idea it would be even be close to this price, everyone told me like $3,000-4,000 but just to rebuild my motor, lets say I kept the stock turbo and went with forged internals he quoted me $8,500



Yeah, seems a little high to rebuild the bottom end. You can buy a complete "race" spec short block from ER for $6500 already assembled:
https://englishracing.net/collections/mitsubishi-evolution-x/products/2-english-racing-evolution-x-2-0l-race-short-block
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yeah, seems a little high to rebuild the bottom end. You can buy a complete "race" spec short block from ER for $6500 already assembled:
https://englishracing.net/collections/mitsubishi-evolution-x/products/2-english-racing-evolution-x-2-0l-race-short-block
Damn and it's sleeved and it comes with a new crank. Probably would of been a better way to go but I can't look back at it now. The reason I went with this guy is he's literally my next door neighbor to my fathers shop, he always has a ton of dsm, subie and sometimes GTR's at his shop so he seems to do good work. He also has an 1,150whp evo9 that runs high 8's so I trust him, but it would be nice to have a sleeved motor
 
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$5,000 for forged engine parts, oil parts etc (had rod knock) I think that includes labor I'm not sure. $500 for a used OEM crank. $800 for like new set of ID1700x's. $200 for downpipe (now not needed anymore) $6,000 for EFR 8374 turbo kit from Full Race. That right there is $12,500. I'm not sure how much labor will cost either, I had no idea it would be even be close to this price, everyone told me like $3,000-4,000 but just to rebuild my motor, lets say I kept the stock turbo and went with forged internals he quoted me $8,500
lol, I don't factor in turbo kits with engine build costs. But yea, a 6k kit will blow the budget out for sure.

My RED sleeved block + high quality rotating parts (CP Pistons, Carrillo PRO-H rods, etc) was right around $5,500 built. 900-1000hp capable.

The sleeving cost $1,600 itself total shipped to and from RED.

That overall cost included all new pullies, belts, timing chain, tensioners, chain guides, rear main seal, OEM oil pump, ARP main studs, main and rod bearings, MAP oil pan, MAP oil cooler and labor of assembling the shortblock.

Here is a list of my engine build:

 

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Discussion Starter #20
lol, I don't factor in turbo kits with engine build costs. But yea, a 6k kit will blow the budget out for sure.

My RED sleeved block + high quality rotating parts (CP Pistons, Carrillo PRO-H rods, etc) was right around $5,500 built. 900-1000hp capable.

The sleeving cost $1,600 itself total shipped to and from RED.

That overall cost included all new pullies, belts, timing chain, tensioners, chain guides, rear main seal, OEM oil pump, ARP main studs, main and rod bearings, MAP oil pan, MAP oil cooler and labor of assembling the shortblock.

Here is a list of my engine build:

wow that's pretty cool. Today I texted my tuner and asked him if we can use the oem buckets if I bought cams and springs. He said "we can but valve lash will still need to be set" Idk what that means can you explain? And how much would aftermarket buckets cost?

I found 214-b cams and springs for $750 new so I was thinking of just getting them if thats all I need. So that's all I'd need to rev to 8500? nothing else? Any info on what cams would be recommended? I haven't researched much about that
 
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