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To everyone, thank you for all the replies, input and great info!

I'm curious to know what cars anybody has raced with their turbo set up and how close it was. I'm assuming on my soon to be 500+whp 8374 setup I will be able to beat almost any new stock car. If I could beat a Hellcat or C7 Z06 that would be reeeeeally cool. I'm curious to see what cars have compared to everyones setup whether it be out in Mexico or at the track.

(my ultimate goal would be have an evo that could beat a Mclaren 570s or even better a 720s in a roll race) From races I've seen it looks like it would take probably a 700whp X just to beat a 570s so that will be a goal one day.

I'm thinking for the next mod (at some point down the line) I'd like to change the final drive. I think that's a big downside for the GSR that you have to stop at the top of 4th which is around 120mph. Has anybody done this or have any recommendations or estimate on how much something like that would cost?
I would be happy with Mid 11's for a starter and build form there.

A stock Z06 with a good driver can trap roughly 128 in the 1/4mile. That's low 11's and even 10's with a good driver.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
1st. Sorry for jacking your thread but we seem to be looking for the same thing (except you are going full built motor so will be able to enjoy extra torque) so i figured may as well have all the info in one thread instead of starting my own.

I think after all the reading I came to the same conclusion, the EFR is the way to go, it's just between the7076 and 8374.




I thought the 7670 was capable of 500 mustang.

I have see Black E's videos and am probably sold on the 8374. i also read that the internal wastegate .92ar helps with the spool without loosing too much on the top end.
No problem bro! I already have made my choice so jack the thread all you want.

Yeah the 7670 can make 500whp on a mustang with e85 but i believe that's near it's max. I think I'd love either turbo especially coming from only a 300whp stock turbo evo but I was bored with that power almost from the day I bought it so that's why I decided to go with the bigger turbo so in case I want more power there's still more left in it. And yeah
I went with IWG .92 A/R

I'm not going to launch my car, especially at this power level. I don't wanna break anything so when I race people it will be from a roll so I'm just wondering how it will be from roll races. I've seen 500whp evo x's beating a lot of fast cars. I'm assuming a stock C7 Z should be somewhere around 550whp so it might be close, hopefully I'll get to test that out one day. That's why I think the next mod I'd do is change the final drive cause the gear is too short stock IMO
 

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To everyone, thank you for all the replies, input and great info!

I'm curious to know what cars anybody has raced with their turbo set up and how close it was. I'm assuming on my soon to be 500+whp 8374 setup I will be able to beat almost any new stock car. If I could beat a Hellcat or C7 Z06 that would be reeeeeally cool. I'm curious to see what cars have compared to everyones setup whether it be out in Mexico or at the track.

(my ultimate goal would be have an evo that could beat a Mclaren 570s or even better a 720s in a roll race) From races I've seen it looks like it would take probably a 700whp X just to beat a 570s so that will be a goal one day.

I'm thinking for the next mod (at some point down the line) I'd like to change the final drive. I think that's a big downside for the GSR that you have to stop at the top of 4th which is around 120mph. Has anybody done this or have any recommendations or estimate on how much something like that would cost?
If you decide to upgrade the Final drive, then have the shop do all the other little things to get the trans bulletproof. "While its out" mentality. I would recommend TRE, but you'll be told by many others that Jacks and Shep Trans are both reputable places. So at that point, its moot. You'll likely spend close to 2k or so just in shipping, parts, and the work needed. Don't be afraid to ask the trans shops whats up, and what they would recommend/what they do so you don't go into it blindly and have sticker shock.

For the upgrade, you will lose a little bit of low end punch but it will make up for it in the longer gears. Being in a gear longer means you are on power for a longer time. The less shifts, the less time spent off power. The tradeoff is if the gearing makes you fall outside of the sweet spot of the torque curve, you'll have to adjust your shift points to counter this. If you're below the curve at every shift even out to redline, then there won't be anything you can do about it. So keep that in mind that while you may have to shift less, you may still end up with the same time/speed say if you went to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Here's an update for everyone. I've had a lot of problems along the way but the car is almost finished. The latest problem I have is the engine and trans were installed onto the car and then the clutch kept popping out. They said it was a bad wave clip, (Competition) so now they have drop the motor again and overnight an ACT monolock. They've expressed their dislike for this Full Race turbo kit. They said they didn't like the design because of the fitment, there's barely any room. They had to grind down (clutch otter shell?) just to make one of the lines fit. They said whenever I need a new clutch they'd have to drop the whole motor to do the job because of the poor fitment of this kit. I'll attached a pic to try to explain a bit better.



Also the sleeving job turned out to be just as expensive as I originally thought. My tuner said it would be $600 for the sleeves and around $500 for the machining. He used a new shop for my car though and I've read some reviews about him and apparently he does excellent work but he's expensive. The sleeving job came out to be $1,200! so almost a 2K job. Even my tuner and his mechanics were shocked when they heard how much. Maybe there's a particular reason, idk. At least it's over with.






If you noticed they also they decided against going with the Turbosmart wastegate actuator and sticking with the BW setup that comes with it. Apparently they talked to Full Race and was told that the IWG setup has 9mm of preload so they think they will be able to run the amount of boost they we want, around 35PSI, aiming for 700whp. After doing research on Black E's posts I am a little worried but I trust in my tuners knowledge vs my own, so lets hope everything works! They want to finish the car this week but I'll be waiting patiently.
They think I should of went with an ETS Precision turbo kit 6266 and that it would be a better setup, they work on those like everyday. I'm really hoping that all of this is worth it and all the hype BW EFR turbos have proves true and proves them wrong! This is a street car after all, not a dyno queen or drag car... at least as of now.


PS - I can't upload the pictures, just got to https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-engine-turbo-drivetrain/750774-need-some-advice-what-turbo-get-3.html#post11860562 to see them
 

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I'm about to order my 8374 kit and have done a lot of research.

What shop is doing the install? Do you have the bottom mount or top Mount kit? I haven't read about any clearance issues with the bottom mount kits. I don't see any pics, can you post one?

The motor has to be dropped slightly to do a clutch on the evo with even the stock turbo on it.

As far as heat goes I'm looking into options as well as they do create a lot of heat when you are on it. Again it's more of a problem if you are racing the car.

Everyone says to get the turbo smart wastegste ( single port is fine) as it holds boost better than the bw wastegate. It's only like $100.00 and easier to install now when the turbo is still not in the car than later. I think it requires 2mm of preload.

I also read a lot about bolts backing out due to vibration with the bw kits. Racing set ups for sure but also some street. People have safety wired the bolts that hold the compressor housing on the turbo ( once it's clocked of course). The bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold are the ones that seem to back out the most. The kit may come with nord-lock washers which may be ok as long as you aren't tracking the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
I'm about to order my 8374 kit and have done a lot of research.

What shop is doing the install? Do you have the bottom mount or top Mount kit? I haven't read about any clearance issues with the bottom mount kits. I don't see any pics, can you post one?

The motor has to be dropped slightly to do a clutch on the evo with even the stock turbo on it.

As far as heat goes I'm looking into options as well as they do create a lot of heat when you are on it. Again it's more of a problem if you are racing the car.

Everyone says to get the turbo smart wastegste ( single port is fine) as it holds boost better than the bw wastegate. It's only like $100.00 and easier to install now when the turbo is still not in the car than later. I think it requires 2mm of preload.

I also read a lot about bolts backing out due to vibration with the bw kits. Racing set ups for sure but also some street. People have safety wired the bolts that hold the compressor housing on the turbo ( once it's clocked of course). The bolts that hold the turbo to the manifold are the ones that seem to back out the most. The kit may come with nord-lock washers which may be ok as long as you aren't tracking the car.
I'm pretty sure Full Race is a Top Mount only? The shop is DDA (Daily Driven Autosports) in Newburgh, NY the owner's name is Remy and he's a pretty chill guy.

What kit do you think you're going to get and IWG or EWG?

To see pics, go to the link, It's on the EvoM forum
 

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I'm pretty sure Full Race is a Top Mount only? The shop is DDA (Daily Driven Autosports) in Newburgh, NY the owner's name is Remy and he's a pretty chill guy.

What kit do you think you're going to get and IWG or EWG?

To see pics, go to the link, It's on the EvoM forum
Full race has a top and bottom mount efr kit.

I got the bottom mount 8374 with internal wastegste. It is going to be street driven mostly and I didn't want open dump. I had one on my old talon years ago and even light boost it would open and be really loud. People would think you were trying to race them when you are just accelerating. It was pretty sick when you are racing wot as it just screams. It was a love hate relationship I had with my open dump wastegate...

Now that I'm a little older in want the car to look stock and be somewhat of a sleeper.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Full race has a top and bottom mount efr kit.

I got the bottom mount 8374 with internal wastegste. It is going to be street driven mostly and I didn't want open dump. I had one on my old talon years ago and even light boost it would open and be really loud. People would think you were trying to race them when you are just accelerating. It was pretty sick when you are racing wot as it just screams. It was a love hate relationship I had with my open dump wastegate...

Now that I'm a little older in want the car to look stock and be somewhat of a sleeper.
What else are you getting done besides the EFR kit? That's the reason why I really like EFR's because you can get them IWG. I do think EWG sounds pretty cool but like you said, anytime you get into boost you're gonna be screaming and I don't wanna draw attention myself> Only thing I'm wondering is how good the integrated BOV is gonna sound, it's not like you can just get a new BOV if you want more sounds.
 

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What else are you getting done besides the EFR kit? That's the reason why I really like EFR's because you can get them IWG. I do think EWG sounds pretty cool but like you said, anytime you get into boost you're gonna be screaming and I don't wanna draw attention myself> Only thing I'm wondering is how good the integrated BOV is gonna sound, it's not like you can just get a new BOV if you want more sounds.

My budget is limited so I am going to be stock motor right now.

I am getting EFR 8374. - 92 AR Driven fab kit. Driven Fab is the only one that makes a 3.5" down pipe for the Internally Gated hot side. I am told the 3.5" down pipe will help with faster spool.

WTF tuend Flex Fuel kit
WTF Tuned ID 1700's with Walbro 450 fuel pump
Clutch: Not sure yet. Leaning towards the Exedy twin, either HD or their organic disc.

I already have the 3.5" ETS FMIC and barolla exhaust (it may only be 2.75" though). It sounds really good so I don't really want to get rid of it.

It will be tuned with evoscan e-tuned.

I want to drive it like this for this year and then get a set of cams next season with springs so I can rev it out a little more.

I usually like to do a few things at a time but with these cars you can't just upgrade a turbo without doing a bunch of supporting mods so you pretty much have to do things all at once.

If I end up going to the track I guess I will have to get a surge tank to prevent fuel starvation but that is another $1000+.

If I do track it this season I will bring a bunch of fuel with me and make sure I don't go below 1/2 tank. Same with the 1/4 mile.

Only thing I'm wondering is how good the integrated BOV is gonna sound, it's not like you can just get a new BOV if you want more sounds.
You can run an eternal BOV. You can get a block off plate for the internal EFR blow off valve so you can run what ever you want. You may have to get ports welded on to the lower IC piping (stocl location) and intake if your kit doesn't have them. Some EFR kits won't have the plumbing for external BOV because it is integrated into the turbo.

The integrated BOV is supposed to help keep the turbo spooled during shifts as it dumps the air right back into the compressor turbine. This is great for GSR's that have manual transmission.

The draw back is this is hot air that hasn't been through the intercooler which will increase intake temperatures.

I guess we will see how well it works.

As far as sound goes I am going to guess it's not going to be as loud as an external BOV vented to atmosphere but I assume you will still hear it when shifting.
 

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You can always get an SXE housing as well, which does not have the internal BPV provisions and looks more like a "standard" housing. The benefit to that is that the housing is smaller, IIRC, as well as comes with anti surge ports on smaller offerings like the 7163
 

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You can always get an SXE housing as well, which does not have the internal BPV provisions and looks more like a "standard" housing. The benefit to that is that the housing is smaller, IIRC, as well as comes with anti surge ports on smaller offerings like the 7163

You can get the 8374 with the SXE housing?
 

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What is the difference between the SE-X compressor housing and the regular 8374 housing?
SX-E compressor covers look like the traditional turbo covers. They do not have the provisions to hold a boost control solenoid, nor do they have the built in recirculating valve.

They make the turbo a little narrower last I knew, as the inlet isn't nearly as tall to house the re-circulation valve.
 

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SX-E compressor covers look like the traditional turbo covers. They do not have the provisions to hold a boost control solenoid, nor do they have the built in recirculating valve.

They make the turbo a little narrower last I knew, as the inlet isn't nearly as tall to house the re-circulation valve.
Thanks for the reply. I never knew this housing was an option. I am going to try and use the integrated BOV as they say it is supposed to help keep spool up during shifts.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
To all following, I finally got my car back. It was supposed to be broken in on the dyno and I was waiting for a couple weeks for it to get a break-in tune but the place that sleeved my motor told them it needs a soft break in of 1,000 miles. I was a little disappointed being told I was going home with a 450whp car that I would be allowed to do some pulls with and then the next day I can't go into boost for 1k miles. Regardless I just want my car to be perfect so I'm happy with whatever the best way is. So my rev limiter is set at 4600 rpm. It's hard to start with the cams and until it warms up I have to rev it or it dies. That will be taken care of when it gets it's real tune. Also he told me to get rid of the Cobb AP and he's going via opensource and he said something about speed density. If anyone is interested in my bill I can post it. I will probably start a new thread when I get it tuned and review the turbo kit, supplier and power numbers.
 

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To all following, I finally got my car back. It was supposed to be broken in on the dyno and I was waiting for a couple weeks for it to get a break-in tune but the place that sleeved my motor told them it needs a soft break in of 1,000 miles. I was a little disappointed being told I was going home with a 450whp car that I would be allowed to do some pulls with and then the next day I can't go into boost for 1k miles. Regardless I just want my car to be perfect so I'm happy with whatever the best way is. So my rev limiter is set at 4600 rpm. It's hard to start with the cams and until it warms up I have to rev it or it dies. That will be taken care of when it gets it's real tune. Also he told me to get rid of the Cobb AP and he's going via opensource and he said something about speed density. If anyone is interested in my bill I can post it. I will probably start a new thread when I get it tuned and review the turbo kit, supplier and power numbers.
Most blocks these days don't need much of a break in because they are plateau honed. We did a few heat cycles on my block and some vacuum pulls then started tuning it. But I guess probably best to listen to the builder.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Most blocks these days don't need much of a break in because they are plateau honed. We did a few heat cycles on my block and some vacuum pulls then started tuning it. But I guess probably best to listen to the builder.
Yeah my tuner said he was just gonna break it in on the dyno and let me drive around for a while and then turn it up but if something goes wrong with the sleeves he's gonna bring it back to them under warranty so we have to do what they say. But I have problem, I have a CEL on so I can't get it inspected or renew the registration so it's sketchy to have to drive 1k before he tunes it out!
 

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It's hard to start with the cams and until it warms up I have to rev it or it dies. That will be taken care of when it gets it's real tune.
If giving it more throttle @ the start keeps it from dying, then it sounds more like too much fuel initially. Should be able to get that right once the real tune is in there. Wouldn't think its from the cams. I had the same thing until tune was worked out.
 
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