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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. So I ended up with Murlo's 2008 Evo GSR. The car has been a absolute blast to drive. I picked the car up with 85k on odometer in Oklahoma. Supposedly had a blown head gasket. Was tuned by Aniel from APRacing I believe. Since then has been re-tuned by Slowpoke on the east coast, to 450hp after getting codes for bad MAF & 02 sensor causing crazy idle/stall.

The only issue I've had with the car was about 10k miles ago, the clutch spring on the ACT 6 puck failed. I figured I would upgrade the clutch the exedy twin disk, seems that this was a bad choice.

Everything was fine at first. Nice stiff clutch, shifted perfect. Never had a single issue. The only thing I can think of is the fork was far to the left(farther away from slave) then what Jacks Transmission recommended in his videos, he said it should be about dead center. So ran great for about 10k miles & that's when my issue started. I noticed the transmission fork kept shifting closer to the slave cylinder. So I would adjust the clutch fork stop closer to the slave as it moved. I read that you need to keep adjusting it for clutch wear.

So as the fork kept moving farther inward eventually last week I felt my peddle get unusually soft. Normally it was very stiff.

So I figured the clutch killed off the MAPerformance upgraded master cylinder. The fluid was unusually dark so I read thats the seals failing.

I took the car to the shop and dropped it off because it was making a terrible noise when trying to rev with the clutch in. My thought was the throw out bearing was touching the fingers on the clutch because of the failed CMC.

So I ordered the Magnus CMC & a new slave from Mitsubishi. I go to pick the car up today and the pedal feels way off. Engagement is at the floor as soon as you move your foot. No freeplay at the top of the pedal. Does not feel as stiff as before which is awesome because now I'm out $1500 bucks. I do not want to drive the car like this & cause any damage because it's not correct.

I tried going to Mitsubishi and those assholes charged me $200 to adjust the rod that goes in the CMC, did not bleed the system like I asked. They told me "it's a real pain in the butt". At this point I just drove home before I had a stroke.

Can anyone help me out here? Does that mean there is still air in the system or the pedal is improperly adjusted? I checked the fluid when I got home and parked and it was low so the shop said bring it back tomorrow but I am just stumped as to why the pedal feels so extremely different? I've never smelled the clutch at all, just that weird noise before I had the CMC/slave replaced.

P.S. I am pretty retarded when it comes to cars but I have been researching this as much as possible please any advice is appreciated. I regret not attempting doing this installation myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its cool to see you taking care of the car. I remember when he just started building it. good times.
Thanks man. Slowpoke said the same thing, he laughed at how long ago that was. I love the car, I have driven halfway across the US 4 times but now just battling this clutch issue. So now I'm 5 grand deep in tools, clutch, cmc & slave cylinder, lol I just wanted to go e85 and bigger injectors =/
 

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I empathize with your dealer woes. A dealer toasted my tcase by not torquing the drain plug and another dealer repairing this damage caused so many issues putting another built tcase in. Never again. Much better to do your own work--the more tools you have, the easier a job is.

You can try bleeding your clutch. It's very simple, can do it yourself if you have a pressurized power bleeder (Motiv power bleeder). On your slave cylinder, which is right below your intake (take off your intake), there is a nipple. That's where you can bleed your fluid (which is shared with the brake fluid). If you have the power bleeder, just fill it with ~2 quarts of fluid, hook it up to the brake fluid reservoir, pressurize it, place a tube feeding into a gatorade bottle onto the nipple, and unscrew it a tad. Then screw it back on once you stop seeing bubbles in the line feeding to your gatorade bottle. Can also do this with 2 people, similar as to how you bleed brakes (unscrew nipple, pump the clutch pedal and hold down, screw nipple back on, release pedal, repeat).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I empathize with your dealer woes. A dealer toasted my tcase by not torquing the drain plug and another dealer repairing this damage caused so many issues putting another built tcase in. Never again. Much better to do your own work--the more tools you have, the easier a job is.

You can try bleeding your clutch. It's very simple, can do it yourself if you have a pressurized power bleeder (Motiv power bleeder). On your slave cylinder, which is right below your intake (take off your intake), there is a nipple. That's where you can bleed your fluid (which is shared with the brake fluid). If you have the power bleeder, just fill it with ~2 quarts of fluid, hook it up to the brake fluid reservoir, pressurize it, place a tube feeding into a gatorade bottle onto the nipple, and unscrew it a tad. Then screw it back on once you stop seeing bubbles in the line feeding to your gatorade bottle. Can also do this with 2 people, similar as to how you bleed brakes (unscrew nipple, pump the clutch pedal and hold down, screw nipple back on, release pedal, repeat).

Awesome, thanks man. Yeah the dealership by me has horrible customer service, there is two of them here and the one of the other side of town is alot better. The tech there has been working about 15 years on Mitsubishi's and he loved the car, nice guy & very knowledgeable. The prices are outrageous though. They quoted me $600 to change all the fluids.

I'll try to grab that power bleeder today. I got it going through gears with ease once it's warm, just not confident all the air is out of the system. The pedal was alot stiffer before I switched to the Magnus CMC, trans felt less notchy as well.
 

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The evo x is the better looking car, especially in white. However the new wrx/sti shits on the evo's interior and reliability while still perfoming as equals. the evo x was my poor mans dream car, but I opted for the wrx after seeing owner reviews and comparing them on everything but looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The evo x is the better looking car, especially in white. However the new wrx/sti shits on the evo's interior and reliability while still perfoming as equals. the evo x was my poor mans dream car, but I opted for the wrx after seeing owner reviews and comparing them on everything but looks.
I've yet to meet a wrx that was able to perform even close to this evo
 

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The interior will obviously be nicer in a newer WRX considering it’s got the Evo Xs design beat by 10+ years. The Evos interior was never the greatest.

Evo still performs better in most areas tho. And I would argue that my 10 year old X is more reliable than a newer STI.
 
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