[Barrett50cal]

Hi, I'm new to the community and to the EVO X. I have been into RWD cars and bikes all my life. I recently sold my ninja because the military has made it near impossible for me to store it a long with my truck, it's just to much of a hastle. I'll cut to the chase though, I have been in love with the EVO X since it came out in 08( especially after riding in my buddies WW GSR :godance: ). The time has come and I have the ability to pull the trigger and get my dream car. I have done a ton of reading on this forum in my spare time to make sure I understand what I'm getting into. However, I have a few concerns that I can't really seem to find a real answer to after searching and they are holding me back.

1.) I keep reading about this "notchyness" in the transmission and how it's horrible for just normal shifting? The times I have read this all pertained to the 08 GSR, I plan to get a 2010 GSR MAYBE a 2011 with leather (if funds allow). Is this still a legitimate problem or was it fixed? The EVO will be my DD because I am selling my tundra too, so I'm not going to be going balls out all the time, I need to know that this car will be tame when I need it to lol.

2.) I am just planning on minor bolt on mods because I don't want to lose reliability. I'm thinking CAI, Test pipe back exhaust( or just CBE?) because it's so damn quiet, and to let it breathe a little better, and a good tune( dyno tune or cobb ap?) If I get these mods what gauges would be beneficial to have, I know boost gauge and AFR but that's pretty much it. I am a complete virgin to turbo FI so I'm sorry if these seem like stupid questions for some of you pro EVO X Gearheads lol. I like to be well informed of what the engine is doing and how it is running. I look at it like an instrument cluster on an aircraft.

3.) I also keep reading about bad relays, is this still a problem for the 2010 or 2011?

Thanks in advance for helping me out, I just want everything figured out before I go spend a whole lot of hard earned money. If there's anything else that might be a major issue please let me know.

 

[Jakerx]

1.) I keep reading about this "notchyness" in the transmission and how it's horrible for just normal shifting? The times I have read this all pertained to the 08 GSR, I plan to get a 2010 GSR MAYBE a 2011 with leather (if funds allow). Is this still a legitimate problem or was it fixed? The EVO will be my DD because I am selling my tundra too, so I'm not going to be going balls out all the time, I need to know that this car will be tame when I need it to lol.

2.) I am just planning on minor bolt on mods because I don't want to lose reliability. I'm thinking CAI, Test pipe back exhaust( or just CBE?) because it's so damn quiet, and to let it breathe a little better, and a good tune( dyno tune or cobb ap?) If I get these mods what gauges would be beneficial to have, I know boost gauge and AFR but that's pretty much it. I am a complete virgin to turbo FI so I'm sorry if these seem like stupid questions for some of you pro EVO X Gearheads lol. I like to be well informed of what the engine is doing and how it is running. I look at it like an instrument cluster on an aircraft.

3.) I also keep reading about bad relays, is this still a problem for the 2010 or 2011?

Thanks in advance for helping me out, I just want everything figured out before I go spend a whole lot of hard earned money. If there's anything else that might be a major issue please let me know.

First off, thank you for your service, and welcome to the forum.

Let me try my best to answer your questions:

1) The "notchiness" is a minor concern. It's mainly a problem in colder weather before the car has a chance to warm up. The problem goes away once the car has had a chance to reach optimum operating temperature. In addition, many have found changing to Redline synthethic manual transaxle oil eliminates that problem.

2) That mod list is good. Definitely pick up a Cobb AP. It's a great tool. I think important gauges to have (if you're willing to install all four) are oil pressure, oil temperature, boost, and AFR. People will argue ad nauseum about which two or three are the most crucial/beneficial (although everyone seems to agree AFR is important).

3) Bad relays are an easy fix. There are three or four relays in the engine bay fuse box which can be replaced for a nominal fee (if they haven't already been replaced by the previous owner since I'm assuming you plan to buy used by your post).

Hope that helps,

 

[Snakes709]

Hi, I'm new to the community and to the EVO X. I have been into RWD cars and bikes all my life. I recently sold my ninja because the military has made it near impossible for me to store it a long with my truck, it's just to much of a hastle. I'll cut to the chase though, I have been in love with the EVO X since it came out in 08( especially after riding in my buddies WW GSR :godance: ). The time has come and I have the ability to pull the trigger and get my dream car. I have done a ton of reading on this forum in my spare time to make sure I understand what I'm getting into. However, I have a few concerns that I can't really seem to find a real answer to after searching and they are holding me back.

1.) I keep reading about this "notchyness" in the transmission and how it's horrible for just normal shifting? The times I have read this all pertained to the 08 GSR, I plan to get a 2010 GSR MAYBE a 2011 with leather (if funds allow). Is this still a legitimate problem or was it fixed? The EVO will be my DD because I am selling my tundra too, so I'm not going to be going balls out all the time, I need to know that this car will be tame when I need it to lol.

2.) I am just planning on minor bolt on mods because I don't want to lose reliability. I'm thinking CAI, Test pipe back exhaust( or just CBE?) because it's so damn quiet, and to let it breathe a little better, and a good tune( dyno tune or cobb ap?) If I get these mods what gauges would be beneficial to have, I know boost gauge and AFR but that's pretty much it. I am a complete virgin to turbo FI so I'm sorry if these seem like stupid questions for some of you pro EVO X Gearheads lol. I like to be well informed of what the engine is doing and how it is running. I look at it like an instrument cluster on an aircraft.

3.) I also keep reading about bad relays, is this still a problem for the 2010 or 2011?

Thanks in advance for helping me out, I just want everything figured out before I go spend a whole lot of hard earned money. If there's anything else that might be a major issue please let me know.

1. bad mistake on getting rid of the ninja, haha. I'll never let the army make me give up m ZX6R. Anyways, the notchyness annoying, but can be fixed by changing the fluide and bushings. If you really wanna go the whole 9 yards. Get the twm short throw shifter with the cage and bushing replacements.

2. I say add a upper intercooler pipe with that and maybe a intercooler as well since you are in florida. All depends if you plan on taking the car to the track. Go with a TBE system, it will breathe alot better and sound mean.

3. I havent had my fuel relay fail on me yet (7000kms) but its a $13 fix.

 

[Barrett50cal]

First off, thank you for your service, and welcome to the forum.

Let me try my best to answer your questions:

1) The "notchiness" is a minor concern. It's mainly a problem in colder weather before the car has a chance to warm up. The problem goes away once the car has had a chance to reach optimum operating temperature. In addition, many have found changing to Redline synthethic manual transaxle oil eliminates that problem.

2) That mod list is good. Definitely pick up a Cobb AP. It's a great tool. I think important gauges to have (if you're willing to install all four) are oil pressure, oil temperature, boost, and AFR. People will argue ad nauseum about which two or three are the most crucial/beneficial (although everyone seems to agree AFR is important).

3) Bad relays are an easy fix. There are three or four relays in the engine bay fuse box which can be replaced for a nominal fee (if they haven't already been replaced by the previous owner since I'm assuming you plan to buy used by your post).

Hope that helps,

Thanks man, and yea I've got my eye on a 2010 and a 2011 with 16,000 miles bone stock. I could get one that's already been messed with but I'd like to have a fresh canvas to paint on. lol from the way you said that it sounds like it might be a pain in the ass to install all four, I'll have to search for some how to guides.

 

[Stark Industries]

just save up after your next deployment and get a used 09 GT-R. Leave it STOCK and be comfortable with reliability and speed.
Sort of wish I had done that after I got my X during terminal leave.
Dont get me wrong, I love my X!
Car is now tuned on E85 and has full bolt ons... is about as fast as a stock 09 gt-r but frequent drivability and reliability/warranty are a joke. I get 12-15 mpg and had to buy a pos honda accord I daily drive to save on gas and maintenance (I.E. using motul oil, 1 single oil change is over $100)

 

[Barrett50cal]

1. bad mistake on getting rid of the ninja, haha. I'll never let the army make me give up m ZX6R. Anyways, the notchyness annoying, but can be fixed by changing the fluide and bushings. If you really wanna go the whole 9 yards. Get the twm short throw shifter with the cage and bushing replacements.

2. I say add a upper intercooler pipe with that and maybe a intercooler as well since you are in florida. All depends if you plan on taking the car to the track. Go with a TBE system, it will breathe alot better and sound mean.

3. I havent had my fuel relay fail on me yet (7000kms) but its a $13 fix.

Lol I regret selling the ninja everyday man. Will a Cobb AP be just as good as a dyno tune with these bolt ons?, I planned on going to Jester tuning if I got a dyno tune.

 

[ElementX]

The most common gauges installed are boost and A/F R. Oil pressure and coolant temp are a good idea if you will be tracking the car heavily. If not, they aren't needed too much.

If you are going to get a dyno tune, I'd say but ecuflash and a tactrix cable. It's a lot cheaper than the accessport, plus you can get better performance from a tune particular to your car. But to answer the question, a cobb accessport would be fine for those mods.

 

[Barrett50cal]

just save up after your next deployment and get a used 09 GT-R. Leave it STOCK and be comfortable with reliability and speed.
Sort of wish I had done that after I got my X during terminal leave.
Dont get me wrong, I love my X!
Car is now tuned on E85 and has full bolt ons... is about as fast as a stock 09 gt-r but frequent drivability and reliability/warranty are a joke. I get 12-15 mpg and had to buy a pos honda accord I daily drive to save on gas and maintenance (I.E. using motul oil, 1 single oil change is over $100)

Point taken but I'm looking at a 25,000 for a 2010 GSR, I talked the dealer down from 28. I think that's a pretty good deal for the car? Damn, does anything ever break?

 

[Stark Industries]

yeah thats pretty good I paid 33k out the door for mine new back in Oct '10. Only put 8700 miles on it thus far. I mean think about the mods you want to put on the car and price it out. Then go and see what you can get a used gt-r for (if one interests you at all).
Im about 50k or so into mine now after mods. A gt-r can be purchased for right at/just under 60k

 

[Snakes709]

i say give clipse a shout (he is a member on here) and get tuned by him, alot better and cheaper then a AP. What kind of ninja did u have?

 

[ElementX]

Honestly, these cars are pretty reliable as long as you keep up with the maintenance, log your car when you drive, and heed the advice of most of the people on this forum.

There is a thread that has some pretty good info for new/prospective evo X owners. I'll dig it up in a second for ya.

Here ya go
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33641

 

[Barrett50cal]

i say give clipse a shout (he is a member on here) and get tuned by him, alot better and cheaper then a AP. What kind of ninja did u have?

Alright I'll def look into that, but I'd have to take the vehicle to him right? 09 ZX-6R monster, juicebox, full m4 exhaust too. Literally she was a monster lol.

yeah thats pretty good I paid 33k out the door for mine new back in Oct '10. Only put 8700 miles on it thus far. I mean think about the mods you want to put on the car and price it out. Then go and see what you can get a used gt-r for (if one interests you at all).
Im about 50k or so into mine now after mods. A gt-r can be purchased for right at/just under 60k

lol that sounds so tempting but there is no way in hell I could do that right now, or anytime soon. Do you plan on getting the gt-r?

The most common gauges installed are boost and A/F R. Oil pressure and coolant temp are a good idea if you will be tracking the car heavily. If not, they aren't needed too much.

If you are going to get a dyno tune, I'd say but ecuflash and a tactrix cable. It's a lot cheaper than the accessport, plus you can get better performance from a tune particular to your car. But to answer the question, a cobb accessport would be fine for those mods.

looking up the ecuflash and tactrix cable right now lol.

 

[Barrett50cal]

Honestly, these cars are pretty reliable as long as you keep up with the maintenance, log your car when you drive, and heed the advice of most of the people on this forum.

There is a thread that has some pretty good info for new/prospective evo X owners. I'll dig it up in a second for ya.

Here ya go
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33641

:godance: Sweet this is just what I was looking for, I saw it the other day but lost it, thanks man.

 

[Barrett50cal]

Honestly, these cars are pretty reliable as long as you keep up with the maintenance, log your car when you drive, and heed the advice of most of the people on this forum.

There is a thread that has some pretty good info for new/prospective evo X owners. I'll dig it up in a second for ya.

Here ya go
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33641

Just realized that was a sticky:duh::duh:

 

[Stark Industries]

lol that sounds so tempting but there is no way in hell I could do that right now, or anytime soon. Do you plan on getting the gt-r?


someday bud... finishing school on GI bill and want to get back in OCS. When/if I pin on those butter bars, Ill get me one :rock:

 

[ElementX]

LOL. And you do not have to take your car to Clipse (Kris) for a tune. He does e-tunes (he can do Cobb accessport and ecuFlash). To do this, you will need an AFR hooked up for logging, as he will not tune via e-tune without it.
Basically, he'll prepare a base map based on your mods and send it to you. You'll flash your ecu with that map and do log pulls, then send the logs to him. He'll continue tweaking the map until it's where you want it.
Check out some threads praising his work if you're thinking of going that route. He doesn't have any dissatisfied customers.

 

[Evo X_X']

you say minor mods for now, wait till you get in the car and ride around, you'll slowly be like...hmmm it'd be nice to have this...and this.....oh well i could go a bit faster with this.....before you know it youve spent $10k lol

 

[pistolpete69916]

you say minor mods for now, wait till you get in the car and ride around, you'll slowly be like...hmmm it'd be nice to have this...and this.....oh well i could go a bit faster with this.....before you know it youve spent $10k lol

It's so true. I was almost scared to mod my car when i first got it, i was debating just getting a catback and not doing anything else ever. Im at $8k now lol

 

[trick3d]

2.) I am just planning on minor bolt on mods because I don't want to lose reliability.

^does not compute.

 

[Barrett50cal]

^does not compute.

what do you mean?