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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Can anybody please recommend me a solution without having to remove the turbo once again? I have a leak where the line meets the block. I replaced the o-ring on the turbo swap (a 20g setup) but it still leaks. I regret not choosing a flex line return but I’ve never heard much about it with stock frame turbos after a thorough search. I’m thinking of cutting the steel OEM line and adding a push on line from the cut section to a push on AN 90 degree to screw into AN male as shown on link below. Can I get your opinions if this sounds reasonable? Or anybody else have ideas?

PUSH ON HOSE (FROM CUT SECTION TO THE BELOW AN FITTING)
http://www.competitionproducts.com/mobile/Goodridge-Push-Fit-Hose-536-Series-10-AN-625-ID-Blue-Per-Foot/productinfo/GDR536-10/#.W_sY4RZOmEc

PUSH ON AN FEMALE
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-209010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PbUlMHw3gIVSdbACh0WSAOhEAQYAyABEgKkyvD_BwE

TO

BLOCK AN MALE SIDE
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-10an-turbo-oil-drain-fitting-with-oem-o-ring
 

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You replaced the o-ring, but have you replaced the copper crush washers? How bad is it leaking? Hopefully the oil line is aligned perfectly and all you have to replace is the copper washers (from STM).

Personally, I wouldn't splice oil feed/return lines, but it may work who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You replaced the o-ring, but have you replaced the copper crush washers? How bad is it leaking? Hopefully the oil line is aligned perfectly and all you have to replace is the copper washers (from STM).

Personally, I wouldn't splice oil feed/return lines, but it may work who knows.

The problem is not the oil feed line (using crush washers). The problem is the stock solid oil drain tube to the block. The leak is on this line from the bottom of turbo to the block. The leak is on the block side. Only uses an o-ring and a 10mm bolt.
 

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The problem is not the oil feed line (using crush washers). The problem is the stock solid oil drain tube to the block. The leak is on this line from the bottom of turbo to the block. The leak is on the block side. Only uses an o-ring and a 10mm bolt.
oh I see. man that sucks. Both options are about the same price. If you don't want to remove the manifold and everything, you can give the splicing a try and see what happens. It's possible for a leak to occur with the splicing, so also get the flex line in case.

If it was my car, I would just install the flex return line. There's probably enough clearance to remove the return line by unbolting the turbo w/o disconnecting the coolant lines
 

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I honestly think that the bore in the block has a slight deformity or scratch on it, causing the leak. The other culprits could be the drain fitting is deformed, or excessive crank case pressure causing oil leaks.

Strange its just leaks like it does, if all things else are correct.
 

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Can anybody please recommend me a solution without having to remove the turbo once again? I have a leak where the line meets the block. I replaced the o-ring on the turbo swap (a 20g setup) but it still leaks. I regret not choosing a flex line return but I’ve never heard much about it with stock frame turbos after a thorough search. I’m thinking of cutting the steel OEM line and adding a push on line from the cut section to a push on AN 90 degree to screw into AN male as shown on link below. Can I get your opinions if this sounds reasonable? Or anybody else have ideas?

PUSH ON HOSE (FROM CUT SECTION TO THE BELOW AN FITTING)
http://www.competitionproducts.com/mobile/Goodridge-Push-Fit-Hose-536-Series-10-AN-625-ID-Blue-Per-Foot/productinfo/GDR536-10/#.W_sY4RZOmEc

PUSH ON AN FEMALE
https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=fit-209010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4PbUlMHw3gIVSdbACh0WSAOhEAQYAyABEgKkyvD_BwE

TO

BLOCK AN MALE SIDE
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-10an-turbo-oil-drain-fitting-with-oem-o-ring
I was thinking of doing something like what you shared. I have my manifold off right now, so I have good clearance and wanted to change those return lines. Can you increase the size with an? And can I use the set up you are going for?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was thinking of doing something like what you shared. I have my manifold off right now, so I have good clearance and wanted to change those return lines. Can you increase the size with an? And can I use the set up you are going for?
I have the below items ready to install. I just haven't gotten to the fix yet. Lazy to fix it and haven't had time since the holidays.

The hose should fit over the hard one based on circumference measurements. Might be a tight fit but confident it's doable

HOSE:
http://www.competitionproducts.com/mobile/Goodridge-Push-Fit-Hose-536-Series-10-AN-625-ID-Blue-Per-Foot/productinfo/GDR536-10/#.XDLD_lxKjIV

AN Fitting:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performance/231/22608/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180037541761&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=44693592161&CATCI=pla-221939629271&CATARGETID=230006180039217689&cadevice=c&jegspromo=nonbrand&gclid=Cj0KCQiA68bhBRCKARIsABYUGicFnL0zQNuAWckseb6MvmqGqOYnY6YcDIrt5XcazEkkUPEKSwfcWdEaAn2FEALw_wcB

To Block Adapter:
https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-10an-turbo-oil-drain-fitting-with-oem-o-ring
 
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