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So today my ef2 decided to spool around 5k+ rpm range every time I WOT. I spend about an hour under the car on the lift and an hour under the hood checking if everything is connected and no hose is flopping around and nothing... Everything is secure. The turbo is still spooling up but boost doesnt kick in till 5k rpm +. I am thinking it is a boost leak issue (havent tested it just yet) but if there was a leak wouldnt it never kick in or kick in at random rpms??

The turbo still spools very strong but at 5k rpm range instead of the 3k rpm range like it was suppose to, at least like it always has...

Anyone have any ideas on what to look for or try to do to fix it? I am thinking of hitting home depot/lowes along with autozone and make myself a 10 dollar boost leak tester but I am not convinced that there is a leak just yet... Maybe the FMIC is acting up or the LICP? Maybe its the cobb bov... no idea... What do YOU guys suggest?

 

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Yea i forgot to mention that... There is no out of the ordinary sound, nothing extra. You can still hear the turbines turning like normal. No whine, no whistle (air leak) or any type of leak sound is coming out of the engine bay. Had my mechanic listen while I revved and vice versa, nothing different...

 

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Alright, I did check the couplets for the pipes again about 10 minutes ago. Everything is secured. Maybe the gs3 has gone bad or the tune has thrown itself out.

Gonna hit back the shop and do some more testing today.

 

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what type of boost controller are you running?

Im running the grimmspeed 3 port bc, it could be the problem as well.

Check your MIVEC solenoids

Everything is secured :/ Perhaps it is internal.

Tunes won't magically change themselves, unless you have tephra mod and accidentally swapped maps (which would be hard to do).

That's what I am thinking. I've never had a tune "magically" change, I always thought it was one of those "myths" lol.

I have literally checked every damn coupling, every connection in the engine bay, every damn bolt and every damn wire... Nothing is loose.

Here are some new ideas that was suggested by cobb tuning @ plano:
Keep in mind that these are "assumed as theory".

Grimmspeed 3 port bc: shot
Cobb bov: shot
FMIC and its components (L and U icp): shot
Turbo: shot (pretty impossible as I do not hear anything negative from the feedback on it. It still spools, you can hear the turbines spinning without any problems, it's not "rubbing" or nothing like a bolt loose in there and you can hear it...).

I am waiting for a call from the tuner down there now as he will tell me to log some things and we will go on from there. I'll update when there is one.

 

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Yep, too much noise. I did make 2 boost leak testers today. I dont know why two... well, one is 3 to 2 the other is 2 to 1.5'' just to be safe i guess... I just need to acquire an air compressor (keep in mind that I dont have a garage so it is a bit hard to get crap done on my car unless it is the weekend which is when my buddy and I hit his friends place and do it there).

I will go to my dealership tomorrow, they let me roam around and use the garage under supervision there. So I will do the boost leak test. While in Russia... Even though I did not have any CELs I decided to check the codes via accessport and I got hit with 3 codes.

P0300 (i get this damn thing all the time then it disappears and comes back, I am rocking gsc s2's so the idle is "a bit" rougher than stock)

but these two are completely new...

P0219 engine overspeed condition (wtf?)
P0134 heated oxygen sensor circuit no activity detected (orly?)

I cleared all the codes, started the car up let it sit there for a minute. I didnt drive it but the codes did NOT come back. I should know more tomorrow...

 

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Alright... First of all, I love my dealership and how I can pull up on an empty lift and use it as I please. I spent literally 5 hours (well 30 minutes of it for putting things back together) on the evo today and here are the results and what I did.

Major boost leak test, no sizzling no nothing. I thought there was some leak sounds which I tested it via soap water to see but it wasnt coming from me. it was coming from the hose that was connected to the air compressor lol. Boost leak test proved there were no boost leaks. For human error, I had 3 of the mechanics take turn at it as well as myself so hopefully all 4 of us didnt fuck it up. I have also taken the BOV as well as the EBC off to check the lines 1 by 1. All of em had no leaks or holes in them. I did blow some air into them and it holds it just fine.

These leaves the turbo and the leak situation out so whats left... EBC might be screwed internally but highly doubt it but I think murlo26 and spikester603 have nailed the problem. I will check that out tomorrow.

As a side note, my BOV doesnt work lol. I did hit 17 psi (which is the highest I have seen) as I was doing a 4th gear pull for data logging and after shift or cutting gas BOV did not go off...

Do you have a CAT still?

Clogged perhaps.

I believe you nailed it, will confirm tomorrow.

if it was a cat it would make sense that the 02 sensor code popped up. hit it with a rubber hammer and see if lovely noises are heard. other than that, when one of the lines for my BOV was messed up, i would only pull at around that same rpm your saying. could very well be the bov or the line for signal to it, but i dont know anything about cobb bov's so...

I will be checking the HFC tp tomorrow and lets see if that really is the case.

Ive had this code P0134, my CAT element inside was spining around. The lamda sensor was then sending signals to the ECU to cut the boost. Car was slow as shit! Fitted a TP instead.

That right there I think really is the problem, will check that tomorrow.

Double check your Grimmspeed 3 port vacuum lines. There could be a kink in one of the lines which will effect boost. In particular, check the line that normally routes back to the intake tube (vacuum).

Oh yes I have, I did take off all the lines from EBC and BOV to test the lines, all are working just fine. Maybe the EBC and BOV are internally screwed...

My god damn back hurts from bending over and hands are cramping from holding the tiny ass ratchet and air tools lol.

 

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http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1034032#post1034032

In this thread they just resolved an issue that may be related. The MFI relay could be broken thus causing your solenoid to remain in the open position. This would mean no boost pressure would be diverted away from the wastegate and consequently would mean the ecu has no waste gate control.

Thanks a lot HappyMint, I am off to run some work related errands then hitting the dealership to test out the HFC cat (gonna take it off and check inside and hit the sensor connector with a rubber hammer as suggested). If that doesnt change jack, I will order me a new MFI relay and if that doesnt fix it either... I will just drive down to cobb @ plano (5 hours away) and get it all fixed.

 

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5 hours?? I could drive through 5 countries in that time lol

good luck with your car:thumbup:

LOL, yes you can haha. 5 hours for only passing 1 state here. Anyhow...

Alright... I GIVE UP. Today i didnt spend that much time on her as I only took out the HFC testpipe, blew 15 psi air through it and "cleared" the cat in it. It was pretty clean, you could see through it without clogs but I cleared it anyways as well as the sensor tube. Sensor looked fine and MUT confirmed that it was working. Did some more tests on the cobb bov. Such a simple device, it works when it gets enough psi through it.

So what's left is that the WGA is shot or the MFI relay. I ordered a new MFI relay today, should be here on the weekend or monday... When I replace it and I am still having this issue, I think we pretty much have the WGA arm/flapper or the whole shabang thats screwed. So by the looks of it, if the MFI relay doesnt fix anything, I will be going down the cobb tuning @ plano to get it all squared... FML.

 

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I did log the boost, let me upload it in a bit. Gotta get my AP out of the car and upload the data.

Its around 2psi till 4-4.5k rpm around 5k rpm it hits 16-17psi and stays there till 7-8k rpm. I am suppose to get 22-26psi and it is all I have been getting so far.

edit1: crap, only recorded up to 2k rpm... I'll do another log sometime today and posted it up.

edit2: uploaded data. I dont think it is recording right... I am seeing 250+ psi on some... I am damn tired, been a long ass week so I might be reading crap wrong at this time...

 

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If you have verified there is no boost leak (to cause the boost to stay at 2 psi at 4k rpm, it would be a hole the size of your fist) and there isn't absurd back pressure (no rocks in your pipes), that leaves very little options.
Question, do you always use such low values for the WGDC on the GS? To maintain 25psi s/b somewhere in the neighborhood of 70 (after the spool style of choice). Yours slooooowly gets to ~50 (when you finally hit 18psi), I'm assuming you are giving it the beans for these logs (no TPS to verify). We can see via MAF it takes a while for your car to really start pulling in air.

I havent self tuned and I am pretty much clueless when it comes to values of data. I do know that there is a massive delay in air intake and boost build up and thats pretty much it lol. The reason I say that is I cant really answer the WGDC being low valued on the GS. My tuner could but he has been sick all week thus my addiction to this thread right now. And, yep. I am WOT in all those logs. Pedal is literally on the floor from 2k rpm to 7-8k rpm.

As a second note... I think it would be very obvious if there was anything wrong with parts on the outside of it. Like a crack on the WGA arm/flapper or it being flopping around as its unattached but it isnt. The cobb BOV could be internally just wide open and letting the pressure out way too early. I pretty much give up. I ordered new a new MFI relay (which I highly doubt was the problem) and I am gonna install my MAP firewall heatshield this weekend and call it a day with this damn problem. I probably will take it down to cobb tuning @ plano and have them work their magic on it. Maybe upgrade to a better WGA instead of the stock one... since I am running EF2. I know on some evo's the stock wga didnt cut it on FP green, it actually slowed down them by 30 whp so I wanna avoid that

 

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Your turbo doesn't have a stock WGA on it, it's MAP's 25psig unit.

You are right, thanks for the correction.


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As much as I hate to say it, it sounds like the wastegate flapper might be stuck open somehow. It would bypass exhaust during spool and create a similar scenario to what has been described here. Unfortunately if everything seems fine externally the next step would be to drop the downpipe

Oh boy, thats gonna be a pita diy job lol. Thanks a lot for the input Chris.

Like Kracka said... I gotta test the wga i guess or i might just drop it at cobb next week...

 

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Ok. I officially give up. I have way too much shit to deal with right now than to work on my baby... Just not enough time :/. I want to thank everyone for their help. At least this way, I will tell cobb what might the problem be. I will take it down to plano. One of these days....

 

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have you tried driving the car and maybe see what codes you get again??

I still think its a CAT/O2 sensor problem.

My CAT was FUBAR and it just felt like my turbo was coming on late and not much power. Just because they look okay dosn't mean they are okay. My 3 MAF sensors looked fine......LOL

Them codes popped up for a reason buddy.

Multiple missfire code..

O2 sensor fault code...

and p0219 isnt a code you get when you remove the speed limiter (thats rubbish, I dont have that ever and my limiter is gone)

P0219 Indicates the vehicle has been operated in a manner which caused the engine speed to exceed a calibrated limit, is your car an MR/SST?

It will be something simple.

I drove the car multiple times, including today with the AP checking codes ever time I shut the vehicle off and on. None of the codes came back again and I havent gotten a single CEL since the last time I saw those codes. The codes didnt come back so far.

I cleaned the cats out with 15 psi air, well whatever was there to be cleaned because it wasnt clogged even before I put some air into it. You were still able to see through it with light in either end. As for the o2 sensor, I did run MUT diag, multiple of them to test the sensor if they were operational. MAF sensors work as well, unless the MUT is screwed and the ECU doesnt notice they are fubar.

Multiple misfire pops up and goes away all the time after I got gsc s2 cams. Everything seems great even with the engine light on, no stutter, no nothing. It's just something that comes with after cams. Need a bit more forgiving ECU tweak to fix that.

As for the exceeding limit, yea I do have an Mr Touring - SST.

This. Don't give up, we've all been there, it happens! This is your first modded car, when it seems like things are always smooth sailing for some of us it's because we have experience with this stuff, know what to do, know what not to do, have come to expect some issues, and most importantly live local to the shops we use. You'll get your setup squared away and you'll be back to loving your car! Shit happens, don't get discouraged over it, especially something so minor as this.

I know in the end you are right on this, you have been with all the things I needed your help with haha. Not living local to the shops we use aka cobb @ plano is one of the mistakes I have made. Logically speaking, I shouldnt have touch my evo at all haha. Shit happens all the damn time, whether it be minor or major (thankfully nothing major so far). But not being able to 100% enjoy the vehicle and be done with all the tiny little shit just pisses me off now... I get to enjoy the vehicle for a couple of weeks and bam something small... I still love the car, just hate driving it lol. I should be back at Dallas Tuesday around 2 or Wednesday around 2 FOR SURE.

 

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Unfortunately if you don't live near a shop (I'm like 3+ hours from the closest decent Evo shop) you need to be knowledgeable enough to trouble shoot stuff yourself, or have a friend who can. I have a friend who's much better at wrenching on stuff than I am - he also has a badass tool set. I on the other hand, am constantly searching for more knowledge so that I can use it to tell him what I think the issue is and what I want to have him help me with in order to fix it. There are so many particularities with every car, it's not possible for a single shop to be experts on everything, which is why these forums are important!

You are right on all the aspects of what you just said for sure. Forums are very important and I do have access to my dealers workshop, I pull in there and use the lift to work on my own car. That's what I have been doing the past week. I do my own oil changes there as well. So I am covered on the tools part plus I have a few special tools that I got from snap on (like the plastic annoying popit/rivit tool extractor). Evo knowledge wise, I sometimes know a lot more about the evo than the mechanics and dont have any friends who are evo monkeys so I am a bit SOL on that.

I also most of the times have a language barrier happening every now and than and dont really understand how to and/or what to do sometimes but Kracka is always there to help out lol which I appreciate all the time but hey in return I get him some drinks haha.

 

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got a feeling its either the exhaust or WGA. Almost always responsible for late spool. One guy had an issue with late spool and it was a clogged cat. If you can just use a test pipe to check then you'll know once and for all if its a cat problem.

I wish I had a straight test pipe to change it up and test it out :/ No biggie, I will hit up cobb in a 2-3 days so they will figure it all out!

 

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P0219 on an MR is overboost I think? that would defo cause the symptoms that your describing.

I'm not an expert on SST's but that will need to be cleared from the ECU or your car wont boost properly.

Have you tried resetting the ECU? i don't know if this works with all codes??

also if it is overboost, you need to find out what's causing it? leak, cold temps etc... just a thought? i might be barking up the wrong tree here..

hope you get it sorted soon

Appreciate that man, Tuesday I afternoon I will be at Cobb so I am gonna have them look at it. Most likely the WGA is all shot so that will be the first thing to look at. I'll update on what the problem was and how it was fixed for sure.

 

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Alright after a bit of inspection on the turbo at Cobb... The arm that's on the wastegate that holds the actuator is broken here is a picture of it. MAP (Chris Carey) has handled the problem without questions by standing behind his product within a minute after hearing the actual problem which is how every company should do. I really appreciate it all Chris.




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Again, I sincerely apologize for the inconvenience sir. I'll have that replacement in Cobb's hands tomorrow.

No worries, everything is all set. Thank you for standing behind your product to the fullest and more!


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