[Murlo26]

Do you have a CAT still?

Clogged perhaps.

 

[spikester603]

Ive had this code P0134, my CAT element inside was spining around. The lamda sensor was then sending signals to the ECU to cut the boost. Car was slow as shit! Fitted a TP instead.

 

[Mugen_Zensou]

if it was a cat it would make sense that the 02 sensor code popped up. hit it with a rubber hammer and see if lovely noises are heard. other than that, when one of the lines for my BOV was messed up, i would only pull at around that same rpm your saying. could very well be the bov or the line for signal to it, but i dont know anything about cobb bov's so...

 

[Kracka]

Do you have a CAT still?

Clogged perhaps.

Good call on this, it's definitely a possibility!

 

[spikester603]

Good call on this, it's definitely a possibility!

get the car in the air, remove the two bolts from front of the CAT to the DP, have a look inside and see if you can move the element with your fingers. It could be the o2 sensor too, check the cable is in good condition..

 

[kimletrim]

Double check your Grimmspeed 3 port vacuum lines. There could be a kink in one of the lines which will effect boost. In particular, check the line that normally routes back to the intake tube (vacuum).

 

[Tr6]

Alright... First of all, I love my dealership and how I can pull up on an empty lift and use it as I please. I spent literally 5 hours (well 30 minutes of it for putting things back together) on the evo today and here are the results and what I did.

Major boost leak test, no sizzling no nothing. I thought there was some leak sounds which I tested it via soap water to see but it wasnt coming from me. it was coming from the hose that was connected to the air compressor lol. Boost leak test proved there were no boost leaks. For human error, I had 3 of the mechanics take turn at it as well as myself so hopefully all 4 of us didnt fuck it up. I have also taken the BOV as well as the EBC off to check the lines 1 by 1. All of em had no leaks or holes in them. I did blow some air into them and it holds it just fine.

These leaves the turbo and the leak situation out so whats left... EBC might be screwed internally but highly doubt it but I think murlo26 and spikester603 have nailed the problem. I will check that out tomorrow.

As a side note, my BOV doesnt work lol. I did hit 17 psi (which is the highest I have seen) as I was doing a 4th gear pull for data logging and after shift or cutting gas BOV did not go off...

Do you have a CAT still?

Clogged perhaps.

I believe you nailed it, will confirm tomorrow.

if it was a cat it would make sense that the 02 sensor code popped up. hit it with a rubber hammer and see if lovely noises are heard. other than that, when one of the lines for my BOV was messed up, i would only pull at around that same rpm your saying. could very well be the bov or the line for signal to it, but i dont know anything about cobb bov's so...

I will be checking the HFC tp tomorrow and lets see if that really is the case.

Ive had this code P0134, my CAT element inside was spining around. The lamda sensor was then sending signals to the ECU to cut the boost. Car was slow as shit! Fitted a TP instead.

That right there I think really is the problem, will check that tomorrow.

Double check your Grimmspeed 3 port vacuum lines. There could be a kink in one of the lines which will effect boost. In particular, check the line that normally routes back to the intake tube (vacuum).

Oh yes I have, I did take off all the lines from EBC and BOV to test the lines, all are working just fine. Maybe the EBC and BOV are internally screwed...

My god damn back hurts from bending over and hands are cramping from holding the tiny ass ratchet and air tools lol.

 

[jyamona]

Double check your Grimmspeed 3 port vacuum lines. There could be a kink in one of the lines which will effect boost. In particular, check the line that normally routes back to the intake tube (vacuum).

the line that routes back to the intake is pointless, you can vent that to atmosphere if you want.

 

[HappyMint]

the line that routes back to the intake is pointless, you can vent that to atmosphere if you want.

Which would be venting metered air to atmosphere. Not going to get into the VTA debate, just making sure this is understood. The MAF has already metered this air.

 

[jyamona]

Which would be venting metered air to atmosphere. Not going to get into the VTA debate, just making sure this is understood. The MAF has already metered this air.

yea I know that. I meant VTA on that 3port line would have no effect on how his turbo was spooling.

 

[HappyMint]

yea I know that. I meant VTA on that 3port line would have no effect on how his turbo was spooling.

Indeed, it would have no effect. However if that line was plugged/crimped somehow, then when the 3 port opened to vent air back through the intake to release pressure away from the wastegate, it wouldn't be able to because of the plug, and consequently the pressure would not be released and would instead push open the wastegate, which would obviously result in him not being able to generate any boost (the issue he is having). Which is likely why someone previously suggested checking this line.

 

[HappyMint]

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1034032#post1034032

In this thread they just resolved an issue that may be related. The MFI relay could be broken thus causing your solenoid to remain in the open position. This would mean no boost pressure would be diverted away from the wastegate and consequently would mean the ecu has no waste gate control.

 

[Tr6]

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1034032#post1034032

In this thread they just resolved an issue that may be related. The MFI relay could be broken thus causing your solenoid to remain in the open position. This would mean no boost pressure would be diverted away from the wastegate and consequently would mean the ecu has no waste gate control.

Thanks a lot HappyMint, I am off to run some work related errands then hitting the dealership to test out the HFC cat (gonna take it off and check inside and hit the sensor connector with a rubber hammer as suggested). If that doesnt change jack, I will order me a new MFI relay and if that doesnt fix it either... I will just drive down to cobb @ plano (5 hours away) and get it all fixed.

 

[spikester603]

Thanks a lot HappyMint, I am off to run some work related errands then hitting the dealership to test out the HFC cat (gonna take it off and check inside and hit the sensor connector with a rubber hammer as suggested). If that doesnt change jack, I will order me a new MFI relay and if that doesnt fix it either... I will just drive down to cobb @ plano (5 hours away) and get it all fixed.

5 hours?? I could drive through 5 countries in that time lol

good luck with your car:thumbup:

 

[Tr6]

5 hours?? I could drive through 5 countries in that time lol

good luck with your car:thumbup:

LOL, yes you can haha. 5 hours for only passing 1 state here. Anyhow...

Alright... I GIVE UP. Today i didnt spend that much time on her as I only took out the HFC testpipe, blew 15 psi air through it and "cleared" the cat in it. It was pretty clean, you could see through it without clogs but I cleared it anyways as well as the sensor tube. Sensor looked fine and MUT confirmed that it was working. Did some more tests on the cobb bov. Such a simple device, it works when it gets enough psi through it.

So what's left is that the WGA is shot or the MFI relay. I ordered a new MFI relay today, should be here on the weekend or monday... When I replace it and I am still having this issue, I think we pretty much have the WGA arm/flapper or the whole shabang thats screwed. So by the looks of it, if the MFI relay doesnt fix anything, I will be going down the cobb tuning @ plano to get it all squared... FML.

 

[Kracka]

My guess is the relay isn't the cause of this. Simple to test...just swap in another relay from elsewhere in the box.

 

[HappyMint]

I need a better description of the boost curve here. Is it like 0 boost before 4k rpm? Or like 15 pounds until 5k then you get full boost? Do you have any logs of this that show us a boost curve on virtual dyno maybe?

 

[Tr6]

I did log the boost, let me upload it in a bit. Gotta get my AP out of the car and upload the data.

Its around 2psi till 4-4.5k rpm around 5k rpm it hits 16-17psi and stays there till 7-8k rpm. I am suppose to get 22-26psi and it is all I have been getting so far.

edit1: crap, only recorded up to 2k rpm... I'll do another log sometime today and posted it up.

edit2: uploaded data. I dont think it is recording right... I am seeing 250+ psi on some... I am damn tired, been a long ass week so I might be reading crap wrong at this time...

 

[HappyMint]

I did log the boost, let me upload it in a bit. Gotta get my AP out of the car and upload the data.

Its around 2psi till 4-4.5k rpm around 5k rpm it hits 16-17psi and stays there till 7-8k rpm. I am suppose to get 22-26psi and it is all I have been getting so far.

This is a very odd scenario, you would think the spring on the wastegate would allow the turbo to spool at least some until the boost pressure exceeds the pressure of the wastegate spring and opens the wastegate. Even if your 3 port was stuck open (diverting no air away from the wastegate) you should be hitting at least the PSI of whatever wastegate spring your car has. If I had to guess it'd be that your wastegate is cracked open somehow and is diverting exhaust and it is only until you hit a certain RPM that your turbo is flowing enough air that the cracked open WGA isn't diverting enough air to prevent spool.

We shall find out if my noobie estimation is correct!

 

[sstevojr]

what?? even if something was wrong with the wg system you would still get 11-12 psi