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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When at the track, I swap between my OEM GSR wheel with slicks and NT03+M wheels with DOT tires. Before someone asks the obvious "Why dont you put slicks on the NT03+M?" - simple answer is that I get slicks for free in the OEM size, and my NT03+m's are a 9.5" wide.

Point is, I end up swapping wheels a lot. It's not unusual for me to have the wheels on/off the car nearly a dozen times over the course of a month. As a result, I end up breaking quite a few wheel studs. I've been using Dormand or Pick-a-nut replacements, as they're cheap and I can usually get them at any hardware store. But they break a lot, taking a lug nut with them in the process. I'd rather them not break, since it's a hassle and I've bloodied more than my fair share of knuckles replacing studs. Can anyone suggest any wheel studs made for racing that are worth the investment? Please don't suggest any stupid expensive jdm ricer shit that doesn't actually hold up.

Then there's the issue of hub-centric rings. I don't actually run a spacer, since my wheels fit fine without one. But the wheels do use a small plastic hub-centeric ring since the wheel bore is a little larger than the rotor hat. After all tracking, this ring separated from the wheel and fuzed to become a part of my rotor hat, preventing me from putting my OEM wheels back on. The only way to get the fused ring off was with a chisel, thus destroying the ring. Now I cant put my NT03+m's back on until I get a new ring, unless I go lug-centric which I refuse to do. So my question is, what's a good solution to get a more durable hub-centric fit for my aftermarket wheels than replacing the crappy plastic ring with yet another plastic crappy ring? A solution that's easily interchangeable with the my OEM wheels would be ideal. I was thinking some of the forged hubcentric spacers made sense. I noticed some also include wheel studs, which might solve my other problem. Can anyone comment on this?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No, I don't lube the lugs. What do you use? just a silicon spray or lithium grease or something?

i don't use an impact or a torque to put them on. Just doing it by hand until it feels right, but don't he-man it. They always break when taking the lugs off, not putting them on. I always assumed it due to all the pressure on the lugs while cornering at the track.

waltezee - thx, I didn't know ARP made wheel studs. They're stuff is quality, so one down :) We're a 20m x 1.5, right? Via summit, I see Moroso, Wilwood and Moser also make some. Probably can't go wrong with any of those.

Any comments on the spacers? I know Touge Factory can hook me up with a set of new rings.. they actually have a custom set made for this wheel on the Evo X. but I've heard the Kicks and Echiban spacers might get around the ring wear issues. Anyone running spacers without rings on an NT03+M?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
once i think about it, I'm pretty sure the stud ALWAYS breaks on the front passenger wheel. It's definitely always in the front. And I always replace it with a Dorman stud. I'm starting to suspect that Dorman studs suck and I keep breaking the same one.

What do you torque them to? The techs at the track always check for 60lbs iirc, but I've heard guys suggest doing at least 80lbs. Thats a pretty big window, hence why I never really bothered with a wrench. Pretty sure I can guesstimate to hit a 20lb window.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
have both. I'll make it a habit of using the torque wrench on the lugs.

anyone have any advice for the rings? i see some places make aluminum ones. our hubs are 67.1mm, and the nt03+m has an odd-sized 72.6mm bore. makes finding a spacer a bit difficult :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great, a first hand review... that's what I was looking to hear :) Do you live in an area that gets snow/salt? I'm worried about oxidation of the rings over time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think I'm pretty much sold on them. Just trying to put a whole package together and look into the spacer option. If I can get a spacer that acts as a ring, that would be idea, but I'm not sure if anything like that exists. I've seen some spacers that include the ring, but its not a machined part of the spacer itself.

I think the spacer will just add more complexity though. Sure I can get up to 30mm of track, but now when I swap wheels, I gotta take off 10 nuts per wheel instead of 5 =/

BTW, I PM'd Mike @ Touge Factory about it. They had the same problem I'm having with the Enkie rings melting to the hub after a few track days. They actually had to use a torch to get theirs off, so I guess I'm lucky :) They ended up manufacturing their own Evo -> NT03+m specific aluminum spacers, and they're only $22 a set - http://shop.tougefactory.com/produc...7-8-9-X-Enkei-NT03%2bM-(67.1mm-x-72.6mm).html

I think I'll go with that, a full set of ARP studs (part #100-7717), and some open-ended lugs. Are there any lugs that are compatible with the OEM wheels and aftermarket wheels? I have having to carry around an extra set when I swap wheels... one more thing I need to remember to pack (yet always forget)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
hey there? can someone advice me? Evo 9 and 10 using same type of ARP stud?
Yes, they'll work but the APR studs are about 2x as long as the OEM studs. OEM is 45mm, APR is 76mm. You'll need open ended lugs. If your lugs are capped, they wont fit. This means you wont be able to mount the OEM wheels using the OEM lugs, and I'm not aware of any open lugs that are 100% compatible with the OEM wheels. It's an odd seat angle. Anyone know of any?

I noticed Moser makes some studs that match the OEM size perfectly, but I doubt they're as good as the APRs. On the other hand,they're cheap. Here's the details: http://www.moserengineering.com/oth...-1-3-4-quick-start-end-565-knurl-lincoln.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Possible but unlikely. Most wheels come in just 1 hub size regardless of wheel dia/width. They bore for the largest hub applicable because boring too large can still work with a ring but boring too small means the wheel won't work. So finding wheels that use the stock bore is unlikely except with a few manufactures that do custom bores
 
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