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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is designed with the sole purpose of preventing negative feedback towards the E-Tuners. Many people get into E-Tuning thinking they'll be done within the first day, which is not so. I keep reading reviews where people whine about their tuners not replying within the hour, which annoys me and pisses of many others, and tuners get negative feedback, which prevents other ignoramuses from getting a tune from these tuners, who happen to be amazing at what they do. This is also designed to prepare you for E-Tuning, if you are willing to go with the process. I will also use myself as an example in this post to give you a basic idea of what e-tuning is like.

Note: None of the tuners in this section are bad. They are all amazing tuners, working in their own unique fashion. Whichever way you go, you won't be disappointed.

Pre-requisite: Before getting ANY sort of tune (e-tune, road tune, dyno tune, etc), make sure your car is inspected and serviced. Your car MUST be at 100% health. Before starting my tune, I took my car to the service, had it checked out, and had the oil changed along with the oil filter. Also follow the procedures highlighted by UT in the F.A.Q section of this post.

Let's start with preventing ignorance from the very beginning. Prior to entering the E-Tuning stage, you must be aware that it may take anywhere between a week to a month in order to complete your tune (I'm sure there are outliers). Tuners have shops (unless they are dedicated e-tuners) and they also have other customers. Don't expect immediate replies. I always give my tuner time to reply, and loads of it, and I want him to take his time with the maps. If you are in a hurry, you should probably get a dyno tune. If you have no patience- e-tuning is not for you. You can't simply rush your tuner and then give him a bad review because it took him more than 2 minutes to reply.

You will go through a number of maps. Usually the first map won't be a power map. It is used in order to prepare future maps. You will do a ton of logging, including cruising on the freeway for up to 20 minutes at a certain rev range, idling logs and down to WOT runs in 3rd gear. I am currently on my 6th revision, and the process is still on-going. The tuner will take his time to make sure everything is correct. If you feel something out of the ordinary, you MUST tell your tuner. He's not a wizard, he's a human, and he's not directly next to you. You must let him know if something is wrong.

Now we get to talk about things you will need:
-TIME!TIME!TIME!. Gotta have loads of it. Not just during the day, but also throughout the tuning process. All the tuners on this forum are patient. Unless you sign up for a same day service, you have loads of time to complete the tune.
-Wideband Gauge: REQUIRED! I would suggest AEM UEGO because it was tested and proven to work. You can hook it up to your rear o2 or using serial. My tuner walked me through the process of connecting my gauge and even went and took his own car apart to make sure I'm doing everything correctly. Your tuner will do the same.
-Cobb AP or Tactrix: If you don't have one already, get one of these, for they are REQUIRED for tuning. Clarify with your E-Tuner which one they prefer. Usually, they can work with both. Chances are, you will need Tactrix regardless, in order to log using EvoScan and get your Virtual Dyno game right. So might as well go with Tactrix from the very beginning.
-Follow THIS guide to get your wideband set up for some heavy datalogging.

Note: E-Tuning is more expensive in the long run (if you count the gas prices and all the items you have to buy).

F.A.Q:
What's better, dyno tune or an e-tune?
They both have their positives and negatives. A dyno is safer since it's in a controlled environment and you dont have to worry about speeding tickets, other drivers, pedestrians , etc. Many shops are busy, and more cars on and off the dyno means more money. So the faster they can finish the tune, the faster they can get another car on the dyno.

With an E-tune, I can spend as much time as I need on the tune to get everything right, not just WOT, because I dont have to worry finishing one car before I can move onto the next.
What should you do before a tune?
If it isn't included in a "pre dyno" package with an e-tune, doing a compression test and a boost leak test are essential. I would also suggest cleaning your MAF as I always see them produce better readings after a good cleaning (only use MAF or electronics cleaner).

If you have a boost leak, the whole tune will be influenced and you'll likely need a full retune after the leak is fixed. In addition, boost leaks are very bad for turbocharger health as they lead to you overspinning the compressor/turbine wheel which causes undue stress and extra wear on the whole turbocharger unit.

Compression imbalances in the motor can also lead to similar tuning inaccuracies. Even worse, if you have an unhealthy motor, the additional power from the tune can cause things to go south very quick.

I would recommend changing plugs during the compression test, and making sure you have oil that's got plenty of life left before starting the tune (fresh preferred).
What is the best break in solution on a new motor while being etuned?

1.) Don't run too rich as it can bore wash the cylinders.
2.) Don't let it idle at the same RPM and don't cruise at the same RPM or speed for more than a few seconds.
3.) Run a decent amount of boost. The more BMEP the better, for seating in the rings initially.
4.) Lots of engine braking is generally regarded as beneficial for break in as well.

Make sure to let your tuner know you're not afraid to run it at a nice optimal AFR initially. Let him know that you want to maximize burn efficiency in fueling, which means timing advance can be kept conservative.
Now a little bit about the tuners that offer E-Tuning services:
Jon Drenas (BakaUnchi/Jesus/5150 Racing)
Chet Rickeman (Rickerman Tuning)-GSR Only
Justin Garrett (Hollywood X/Precision Violence)
Kaizen Tuning
Beeble Tuning

If you have any questions or need any help with your maps, FREE assistance can be received by the one and only, UT_EvoX
 

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Good post.

However; I disagree with you saying that a dyno tune is better than a E-tune. They both have their positives and negatives. A dyno is safer since it's in a controlled environment and you dont have to worry about speeding tickets, other drivers, pedestrians , etc. Many shops are busy, and more cars on and off the dyno means more money. So the faster they can finish the tune, the faster they can get another car on the dyno.

With an E-tune, I can spend as much time as I need on the tune to get everything right, not just WOT, because I dont have to worry finishing one car before I can move onto the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Never thought of it that way. Thank you!:thumbup: Added into the original post
 

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Many shops are busy, and more cars on and off the dyno means more money. So the faster they can finish the tune, the faster they can get another car on the dyno.

With an E-tune, I can spend as much time as I need on the tune to get everything right, not just WOT, because I dont have to worry finishing one car before I can move onto the next.
That's weak man. Cut that out.

E-Tuning gives you access to alot of Good (and alot of bad) tuners out there. It gives you options. Anything over two hour drive to a good tuner I'd go E-tune as well. Or maybe theres a good tuner in your area but you don't want to fuck with them for what ever reason. E-tuning is a great option then as well.

My biggest grip with E-tunning are the cars are rarely 100% in some way shape or form before the tunning session start but e-tuners got figure that out remotely THEN make sure the person is competent enough to get it fixed properly. F dealing with that shit.
 

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That's weak man. Cut that out.
Cut what out?

My biggest grip with E-tunning are the cars are rarely 100% in some way shape or form before the tunning session start but e-tuners got figure that out remotely THEN make sure the person is competent enough to get it fixed properly. F dealing with that shit.
Couldnt agree more
 

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Let me pose a question: given the local availability of a tuner very knowledgeable about the Evo X platform, a dyno in their possession that is of a proper load-simulating type, and that the tuner will spend at a minimum 4 hours with your car on the dyno tuning all aspects of real-world driving, what is the advantage of an e-tune then?

I know not everybody is fortunate enough to have access to a *good* and *affordable* shop locally, but I still pose the question.
 

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Let me pose a question: given the local availability of a tuner very knowledgeable about the Evo X platform, a dyno in their possession that is of a proper load-simulating type, and that the tuner will spend at a minimum 4 hours with your car on the dyno tuning all aspects of real-world driving, what is the advantage of an e-tune then?

I know not everybody is fortunate enough to have access to a *good* and *affordable* shop locally, but I still pose the question.
There is no advantage to the E-tune then, but how many shops do this besides you and Jon?
 

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my closest dyno is a few hours away. I have seen a car get dyno tuned. I have an etune...what I will say about a dyno tune compared to an Etune is the same old shit...

TJ...You may be a rare case of a shop or tuner who will spend that 4 hours on that one car...but the reality is unfortunately shops don't "always" do that. I love you for the fact you will do that, and your passionate enough and care enough to do that. If I lived in UT, I would come to you without hesitation.

With that being said...Ive seen a shop in SA, texas spend about an hour maybe a few minutes more on a tune...have the "customer" go drive it around the block, not logging or anything else. Once the driver says it pulls harder, the tune is done. No shit that's what happened on that instance. Now he has been back for retune already, and that was in march of this year.

Etune is cool. It helped me learned so much. But I can actually see what the car is doing myself. I told Chet today as a matter of fact I didn't like how my AFR's were on a set of pulls. He said alright I will fix it...and I know he will. Not very many times ( as I have seen) a shop doing that.

I like both, and I hope one day soon I will have a dyno near by I can through on there to see how Chet's tune does on it!

Just my thoughts...rape me with the negative if need be
 

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There is no advantage to the E-tune then, but how many shops do this besides you and Jon?
Hey true that, that's why you're a good etuner; because you are willing to spend the hours to get it right.

There are good shops out there looking to provide a good service before thinking about padding their profits. There are also shops out there that overbook, work their tuners to death, and care about volume way over quality.
 

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my closest dyno is a few hours away. I have seen a car get dyno tuned. I have an etune...what I will say about a dyno tune compared to an Etune is the same old shit...

TJ...You may be a rare case of a shop or tuner who will spend that 4 hours on that one car...but the reality is unfortunately shops don't "always" do that. I love you for the fact you will do that, and your passionate enough and care enough to do that. If I lived in UT, I would come to you without hesitation.

With that being said...Ive seen a shop in SA, texas spend about an hour maybe a few minutes more on a tune...have the "customer" go drive it around the block, not logging or anything else. Once the driver says it pulls harder, the tune is done. No shit that's what happened on that instance. Now he has been back for retune already, and that was in march of this year.

Etune is cool. It helped me learned so much. But I can actually see what the car is doing myself. I told Chet today as a matter of fact I didn't like how my AFR's were on a set of pulls. He said alright I will fix it...and I know he will. Not very many times ( as I have seen) a shop doing that.

I like both, and I hope one day soon I will have a dyno near by I can through on there to see how Chet's tune does on it!

Just my thoughts...rape me with the negative if need be
Definitely agreed.

I want to share an article soon in defense of good dyno tuning as there are those out there that try to make a dyno seem like an inferior tool compared to the road. Nobody here, that I've seen, of course, but a lot of "shade tree" tuners spread some serious BS.

I got your PM by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just like the process of e tuning, I learn quite a lot through it and my driving style improves as the tune improves or changes. My absolute threshold for little changes in the car lowers as well.
 

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what should you do before a tune? like spark plugs,etc?
If it isn't included in a "pre dyno" package with an e-tune, doing a compression test and a boost leak test are essential. I would also suggest cleaning your MAF as I always see them produce better readings after a good cleaning (only use MAF or electronics cleaner).

If you have a boost leak, the whole tune will be influenced and you'll likely need a full retune after the leak is fixed. In addition, boost leaks are very bad for turbocharger health as they lead to you overspinning the compressor/turbine wheel which causes undue stress and extra wear on the whole turbocharger unit.

Compression imbalances in the motor can also lead to similar tuning inaccuracies. Even worse, if you have an unhealthy motor, the additional power from the tune can cause things to go south very quick.

I would recommend changing plugs during the compression test, and making sure you have oil that's got plenty of life left before starting the tune (fresh preferred).
 

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This is all good reading!!

So I see mainly suggestions for up and running motors, but what about those that have a newly built motor? Obviously to start you get a basic map from the info that is provided to the etuner, but my main concern is this...

Some say (and have proven to be successful) that giving the motor some stick for the first 20 miles is best, seats the rings and completes the final finishing process on the cylinder walls...some say its not the best and to take it very easy, then there comes the other part to that which I hear...don't go into boost for the first few hundred miles on a new turbocharged motor...kind of hard to do the first part if that's the case.

So what is the real solution on a new motor while being etuned?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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This is all good reading!!

So I see mainly suggestions for up and running motors, but what about those that have a newly built motor? Obviously to start you get a basic map from the info that is provided to the etuner, but my main concern is this...

Some say (and have proven to be successful) that giving the motor some stick for the first 20 miles is best, seats the rings and completes the final finishing process on the cylinder walls...some say its not the best and to take it very easy, then there comes the other part to that which I hear...don't go into boost for the first few hundred miles on a new turbocharged motor...kind of hard to do the first part if that's the case.

So what is the real solution on a new motor while being etuned?


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
1.) Don't run too rich as it can bore wash the cylinders.
2.) Don't let it idle at the same RPM and don't cruise at the same RPM or speed for more than a few seconds.
3.) Run a decent amount of boost. The more BMEP the better, for seating in the rings initially.
4.) Lots of engine braking is generally regarded as beneficial for break in as well.

Make sure to let your tuner know you're not afraid to run it at a nice optimal AFR initially. Let him know that you want to maximize burn efficiency in fueling, which means timing advance can be kept conservative.
 
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