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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my X. Had it for about 1 month now. Soo I've been noticing that when I stop hard and come to a complete stop, the rear end of the car like squats back and rolls. When I let off the brake afterwards, the car does not move at all. Unlike a normal car where it would release all 4 brakes and lower/set in. Another thing I noticed is that the rust on the rear rotors is not coming off after drives which leads me to believe that the rear brakes are not working. Even under hard braking.

So far I've bled all 4 brakes and replaced the fluid. I don't believe it helped at all. Seems to be the same. The weird thing is that BOTH the rear brakes are acting this way. So I'm confused. IDK if it's how the car usually is or if the rear calibers are seized. The car only has 29k miles on it. Seems weird that the calipers would seize with this low of miles on it. The only other thing I noticed is that the front rotors are warped. Pads are all still healthy as far as meat on them.

What is the stock brake bias?

So what do u guys think my next step is? I'm kinda stuck at this point and I want to get it fixed before I replace my rotors and pads.
 

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Just need to keep going through the variables. Right now you dont know if the calipers are seized. So I would pull them off the rotor. And have someone hit the brake pedal to see if the pistons actually move.

Other than that, you would be looking at the master cylinder. Or the ABS unit.


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Discussion Starter #3
Just need to keep going through the variables. Right now you dont know if the calipers are seized. So I would pull them off the rotor. And have someone hit the brake pedal to see if the pistons actually move.

Other than that, you would be looking at the master cylinder. Or the ABS unit.


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I can confirm that the rears are indeed not working. I've drove around with the ebrake and hitting the brake at the same time, and it worked as should. But as soon as the ebrake is off, back to only the fronts. The flexible lines are not bent or kinked and ebrake works as normal though when applying the ebrake when moving, I do hear a clunk in the back right one. Doesn't do anything though.

What would be wrong with master or abs? I'm not getting any codes.
 

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I can confirm that the rears are indeed not working. I've drove around with the ebrake and hitting the brake at the same time, and it worked as should. But as soon as the ebrake is off, back to only the fronts. The flexible lines are not bent or kinked and ebrake works as normal though when applying the ebrake when moving, I do hear a clunk in the back right one. Doesn't do anything though.

What would be wrong with master or abs? I'm not getting any codes.
I'm just saying you need to go through the variables. I dont think it would be abs. Because you would get a light on the dash.

You need to see if the pistons in the calipers actually move

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The e brake is completely separate to the foot brake one uses shouted inside the rear rotor one uses pads on the exterior, if the brake works ok that doesn’t mean the foot brake is only real way to tell is jack the car up turn the rear wheel and have a helper put their foot on the brake
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I can confirm that the rears are indeed not working. I've drove around with the ebrake and hitting the brake at the same time, and it worked as should. But as soon as the ebrake is off, back to only the fronts. The flexible lines are not bent or kinked and ebrake works as normal though when applying the ebrake when moving, I do hear a clunk in the back right one. Doesn't do anything though.

What would be wrong with master or abs? I'm not getting any codes.
I'm just saying you need to go through the variables. I dont think it would be abs. Because you would get a light on the dash.

You need to see if the pistons in the calipers actually move

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I'll give that a shot today and report back. Thanks!

The e brake is completely separate to the foot brake one uses shouted inside the rear rotor one uses pads on the exterior, if the brake works ok that doesn’t mean the foot brake is only real way to tell is jack the car up turn the rear wheel and have a helper put their foot on the brake
Yea I learned that yesterday. I thought it was mechanical with the Pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I ended up bringing it to a mechanics shop simply because I don't have the time nor correct tools to work on it myself atm. Long story short, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes at all. He jacked up the car spun the tires and they are locking up. He did however say that I really do need pads and rotors which I knew. Who knows what the previous owner has on there. The pads still have plenty of meat on them, but I'm pretty sure they are stock OEM rotors and no idea about pads. So the mechanic said to get new rotors and pads and see how it does. If it still feels like crap, then we can at least rule out crappy parts. So that's what I'm gonna do for now. I already have rotors and pads in mind that I want. Just been waiting until after I ship my car to my new location where I'll have a full shop with tools I can mess around in.
 

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Yea I learned that yesterday. I thought it was mechanical with the Pistons.
Some vehicles DO use the brake pistons as part of their E-brake system. But the Evo is a generic inner drum style e-brake like a lot of modern rear disc vehicles.

So I ended up bringing it to a mechanics shop simply because I don't have the time nor correct tools to work on it myself atm. Long story short, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes at all. He jacked up the car spun the tires and they are locking up. He did however say that I really do need pads and rotors which I knew. Who knows what the previous owner has on there. The pads still have plenty of meat on them, but I'm pretty sure they are stock OEM rotors and no idea about pads. So the mechanic said to get new rotors and pads and see how it does. If it still feels like crap, then we can at least rule out crappy parts. So that's what I'm gonna do for now. I already have rotors and pads in mind that I want. Just been waiting until after I ship my car to my new location where I'll have a full shop with tools I can mess around in.
When was the last time you flushed your fluid? If there is air in the lines, or the fluid is garbage (water logged), that would cause an issue. I would first throw at least a whole liter of DOT-4 fluid through the system and see if it helps. I bet that the fluid that comes out looks like shit. Run a hose down to a piece of paper so you can see the color of the fluid that comes out. I would start there first before just swapping pads and rotors. Unless the pads are terribly uneven, or the rotors are warped, you should still get brake force. There is absolutely no reason why some old pads would cause your rear to function the way that it is.

I would take the time to spray your bleeders with a penetrant now if you are worried they will be hard to crack open.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Yea I learned that yesterday. I thought it was mechanical with the Pistons.
Some vehicles DO use the brake pistons as part of their E-brake system. But the Evo is a generic inner drum style e-brake like a lot of modern rear disc vehicles.

So I ended up bringing it to a mechanics shop simply because I don't have the time nor correct tools to work on it myself atm. Long story short, the mechanic couldn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes at all. He jacked up the car spun the tires and they are locking up. He did however say that I really do need pads and rotors which I knew. Who knows what the previous owner has on there. The pads still have plenty of meat on them, but I'm pretty sure they are stock OEM rotors and no idea about pads. So the mechanic said to get new rotors and pads and see how it does. If it still feels like crap, then we can at least rule out crappy parts. So that's what I'm gonna do for now. I already have rotors and pads in mind that I want. Just been waiting until after I ship my car to my new location where I'll have a full shop with tools I can mess around in.
When was the last time you flushed your fluid? If there is air in the lines, or the fluid is garbage (water logged), that would cause an issue. I would first throw at least a whole liter of DOT-4 fluid through the system and see if it helps. I bet that the fluid that comes out looks like shit. Run a hose down to a piece of paper so you can see the color of the fluid that comes out. I would start there first before just swapping pads and rotors. Unless the pads are terribly uneven, or the rotors are warped, you should still get brake force. There is absolutely no reason why some old pads would cause your rear to function the way that it is.

I would take the time to spray your bleeders with a penetrant now if you are worried they will be hard to crack open.
Flushing the system was my first step. Fluid was a little dark but nothing out of the unusual. When I bled the system, a tiny bit of air came out of the rear outside and inside bleeders, but after correctly bleeding the system, issue still persistent. Seems right rear brake is getting more use than the left judging by the rust. However both have some serious grooving going on.

I've replaced the front pads only with some cheap sh*itty ones I got off rockauto cause before I got the car in my possession, I was told front brakes have no pad left (spoiler alert, the place lied to to get me to buy their brakes). I decided to throw them in anyway cause end of this month all 4 rotors and pads need to be replaced anyway and I had already bought them. It seemed to help a little. But I think that's just because of the new pads on the front. The front Pistons pushed back in very easily. No issues.

When I took the front pads out I noticed they were the stock brembo pads and rotors from factory in 2015. Car has 27k on it.

Going to be replacing rotors and pads with Power Stop Z23 rotor and pads end of this month and will monitor rear wear pattern. Before I do that however I'll test the rear brakes myself.
 
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