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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was on my way to my fathers retirement ceremoney and right before I got onto the highway to get there, my car went from getting into boost, to just bogging down completely!! No more turbo spool up or anything! Only code I have thrown is P0113 and went to the dealer for repairs. Told me it was the IAT (Intake Air Temp) Sensor. It has been replaced and the car still runs like it's eating mud for breakfast. It can barely accellerate. Can anyone tell me what is going on? I just got a few mods done but I'm about 99.999999% sure you don't need a retune after installing a bigger intercooler?
 

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what about calling your tuner...and bringing it back to them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yea, that seems to be my only other option. My master tech (only one I'll let touch my car) at Mitsu told me either to do an Ohm check (not sure if that's the right spelling for that) or just take it to the shop who tuned my car because it could be needing to be reflashed and he can't do it. He checked out all my vaccum lines and connections and said everything was in the right place and connected.
 

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Check your boost lines and see if they are holding pressure.
Check your waste gate actuator lines going to your boost solenoid using a pressure gauge/pump.
What FMIC did you buy? What mods do you have?
 

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im not sure how close mistu and toyota are, but the IAT sensor is a part of the MAFS. the P0113 code is a MAFS code, and usually indicate that the output/input signal is too high or something like that.

Not sure if you drove in some bad rain recently, but it could have gotten wet. Try replacing the MAFS, reset the ECU and see what happens
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Check your boost lines and see if they are holding pressure.
Check your waste gate actuator lines going to your boost solenoid using a pressure gauge/pump.
What FMIC did you buy? What mods do you have?
I had my master tech check all of the lines and he said they were fine. None of them were leaking and they were all connected properly. I just got the Depot Racing fmic. Other supporting mods is ETS LICP, AMS UICP, AMS Intake, Agency Power Adjustable bov (set to 50/50), Agency Power dual catback exhaust, Rexpeed test pipe, and tuned by English Racing here in Washington. **NOTE** Tune was done BEFORE LICP, FMIC, and bov.
I didn't think we needed a tune for a bigger intercooler? Besides that, when I installed my parts, my car ran just fine, and I could tell the increase in power straight away! Only issue I can tell is the check engine light when I was last tuned. That light only came on when I had my test pipe installed. My tuner shut the light off, but it sprang back up a week after I was tuned. I was thinking I just needed to get a o2 sensor spacer?



im not sure how close mistu and toyota are, but the IAT sensor is a part of the MAFS. the P0113 code is a MAFS code, and usually indicate that the output/input signal is too high or something like that.

Not sure if you drove in some bad rain recently, but it could have gotten wet. Try replacing the MAFS, reset the ECU and see what happens
My thoughts exactly!! I ran through here researching all I could and that's what I thought! Although I didn't completely replace my MAF sensor, I bought MAF cleaner from the store, and sprayed it, dryed it, and put it back on. Problem was still there. So I bought a K&N Air Filter cleaning kit (K&N filter used on the AMS intake) and completely cleaned my filter. That also didn't help. That's when I just threw my arms in there air and decided to take it to the dealer. That's when I found out about the IAT Sensor. So they bought a new one, installed it, and it's still running slow as slow as the day is long!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah it sounds like a leak. Check all your connections around the i/c and especially the uicp area that goes over the bumper! GL!!!
Thank you. I think it's a leak as well, or the o2 sensor on my test pipe. I never had a check engine light until I had my test pipe put on. Anyway, I hope you and everyone else is right about the leak, because that is an easy fix. it's just finding out where the leak is coming from...:(
 

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I would say you should get your car tuned after installing a larger IC, it could make you over boost. When you overboost it will make your car feel slow as the "boost cut" cuts in.

If you installed a testpipe with no tune, that alone could make you overboost, so with a test pipe and a larger IC with no tune will defo have an effect on boost IMO.

Also if you had a leak you would be able to hear it on WOT.
 

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that code for the MAF sensor is usually thrown by non-recirculated bov's, if you changed it and even if its 50/50 i still suggest a re-tune. my buddies 2011 gsr had the tial on the uicp and it was atmospheric, not the same one as you, but tuned for it, and kept throwing codes for the MAFS and kept loosing power
 

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that code for the MAF sensor is usually thrown by non-recirculated bov's, if you changed it and even if its 50/50 i still suggest a re-tune. my buddies 2011 gsr had the tial on the uicp and it was atmospheric, not the same one as you, but tuned for it, and kept throwing codes for the MAFS and kept loosing power
No...it doesn't. IAT has nothing to do with a BOV, let alone a vented BOV. However (to Tye1) you mention the tune was done before you put the new BOV on. You'll want to retune for that since the stock BOV leaks and you may be overboosting now. Do you have a boost gauge to keep an eye on it?

P0113
Intake air temperature circuit high input


This could be a bad/cut wire, bad sensor or something like that. Take a look at the plug and wires going into the MAF and make sure everything looks good. It could even go further back into the wiring harness somewhere. Chasing around a code for an electrical circuit can be a pain in the ass...
 

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You could be overboosting if you replaced your BOV after the tune. Did you do logs to make sure you were not hitting higher PSI targets than before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Ok, update. We switched my boost solenoid back to its right place and I got a lot more of my throttle response back. BUT, the turbo isnt spooling at all still. My bud (whichdy got under the hood when I revved it and he said he can feel air.escaping the bov,, but the turbo isnt building any boost. Idea's? Besides a retune (which I plan to do)?
 

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Ok, update. We switched my boost solenoid back to its right place and I got a lot more of my throttle response back. BUT, the turbo isnt spooling at all still. My bud (whichdy got under the hood when I revved it and he said he can feel air.escaping the bov,, but the turbo isnt building any boost. Idea's? Besides a retune (which I plan to do)?
This is common on some vta or 50/50 bovs at idle you will feel some air coming out where it should be recirced. either adjust your bov or recirc and then see if the problem is still there. I still think a coupler somewhere came loose, i had this happen to me and lost my power, i knew exactly what it was cause i heard a pop. good luck hope you figured it out
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies philly!

EVERYONE!: Update!! Thanks to the HUGE help from "JDMevilX" we actually got my Evo up and running perfectly yesterday!!! I wanted to update you all so in case you guys ever see someone with similar symptoms, this is what they may also need to check. So here's the quick run down --

1) Wastegate hose and other hoses near the intake were all hooked up the wrong way. We unplugged them and put them in their right place and I immediately felt a difference straight away.

2) Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor 1 (on top of intake manifold) and IAT Sensor 2 (Mass Air Flow sensor believe it or not.lol) were replaced by the dealer with brand new sensors. Check engine light went away and no codes appeared from the OBD2 scanning tools. Evo still felt like it was in limp mode.

3) Best one yet!!! THE WASTEGATE WASN'T CONNECTED!!! I highly suggest having another Evo X with you and do this in the day light! Doesn't matter if it's an MR or GSR. I checked out JDMevilX's wastegate actuator rod and noticed it was in place. Mine however, was completely off the bolt on the other end!!! There is a small button/small knob that the wastegate actuator pin hooks onto and for some odd reason, it had popped off!! As soon as we hooked it back up, my turbo was back, power was back, and my bov was as loud as ever!!!


So anyway, in a nut shell, the KEY thing you want to check with the symptoms I had is the wastegate! Check out the rod and button pin at the end and make sure they are connected.
Thank you everyone that posted on this thread!!! For the past couple weeks, it has been a pretty depressing deal to handle since this is literally my ONLY vehicle at the moment. Getting around town sucked without having my Evo. Sure, I had friends, family, and co workers help me get around but damn... there really isn't anything like driving an Evo!!

~ FIN
 
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