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Discussion Starter #1
Since my AYC pump broke for the third time and now there's now easy way of rebuilding it I'm ordering a new pump. This time I want to make sure that it lasts a long time like it should. After reading lots of threads on the issue, I came across many useful advices on how to preserve the pump.
So, may be it's good to have a thread that summarizes all the experience and hopefully will result in a overall solution that everyone should implement.
So, the firs step is protecting the pump against rust by coating it with an anticorrosion lubricant.
The second issue is cold weather and pump going bad due to the increased viscosity of the fluid. There, I was thinking, I could put up a simple heating solution that would connect the pump circuit only after the fluid or the pump itself is at a certain temperature (t1). The heating will be operating from a 12V power when the car is running and will be truned off when the temperature (t2) is , let's say 10-15 degrees higher than t1.
The question here is, what exactly should be heated: the pump itself, the liquid reservoir, some hoses?
Another solution would be to reprogram the ACD ECU so that the pump is turned on at a certain temperature of the liquid, or if there is no such a measurement, some other parameter - time, oil temp, transmission oil temp, etc. As far as I know from checking evom, ACD tuning is already possible, so making this simple mod should not be a problem.
Please share you experiences and ideas.
 

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Great idea for this thread, there are a lot of owners in Canada that run into this issue.
Here are my thoughts:

Pump guard (will block heavy dirt from hitting the pump, these are available from many manufactures already)

Anti-Corrosive lube / or coating. Not sure what would be better, an anti-corrosive coating or a sealant that would keep any moisture out.

And yes a heater for sure, expecially if live in anything lower then -25*C. I think the pump should be heated as well as the part of lines that are located outside of the trunk. I think heating the pump and lower lines will be enough so that the heat will transfer to the fluid in the container in the trunk. It would also keep the heating element outside the trunk for easier install and a safer situation (electric heaters in cars have proven to be problematic)
 

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Since my AYC pump broke for the third time and now there's now easy way of rebuilding it I'm ordering a new pump. This time I want to make sure that it lasts a long time like it should. After reading lots of threads on the issue, I came across many useful advices on how to preserve the pump.
So, may be it's good to have a thread that summarizes all the experience and hopefully will result in a overall solution that everyone should implement.
So, the firs step is protecting the pump against rust by coating it with an anticorrosion lubricant.
The second issue is cold weather and pump going bad due to the increased viscosity of the fluid. There, I was thinking, I could put up a simple heating solution that would connect the pump circuit only after the fluid or the pump itself is at a certain temperature (t1). The heating will be operating from a 12V power when the car is running and will be truned off when the temperature (t2) is , let's say 10-15 degrees higher than t1.
The question here is, what exactly should be heated: the pump itself, the liquid reservoir, some hoses?
Another solution would be to reprogram the ACD ECU so that the pump is turned on at a certain temperature of the liquid, or if there is no such a measurement, some other parameter - time, oil temp, transmission oil temp, etc. As far as I know from checking evom, ACD tuning is already possible, so making this simple mod should not be a problem.
Please share you experiences and ideas.
You still need to change / upgrade plate internally...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You still need to change / upgrade plate internally...
Why would you need to change the plate in a new pump? Wouldn't it be enough to seal the joints properly, so the corrosion doesn't get through?
 

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if youre looking for an acd shield i have one for sale. its a Carbing ACD Guard and it comes with all the necessary hardware for installation. i purchased it straight from japan. its fairly new on the market and unfortunatly i didnt realize it doesnt fit USDM Xs. seeing that youre in russia, it might fit for you. if youre interested, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
if youre looking for an acd shield i have one for sale. its a Carbing ACD Gaurd and it comes with all the necessary hardware for installation. i purchased it straight from japan. its fairly new on the market and unfortunatly i didnt realize it doesnt fit USDM Xs. seeing that youre in russia, it might fit for you. if youre interested, let me know.
Thanks, but I also have a USDM model, so I guess it won't fit my car also.
 

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That pic is the rear passenger side wheel well?
I dont know where half the awd shit on this car is but each spring I give her a nice belly rub and spray some wurth rost off all underneath.
 

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Yep, that's the rear passenger side. This is what it looks like before the plate:


Here's a behind shot:


You can actually see the bottom of the pump assembly and all the hydraulic lines..
 

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I am so glad I live in an area with no snow or freezing temperatures. That underbody looks really corroded and parts that are eaten by road salts.
 

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That's what two Quebec winter do to a car! Well, it's worst than it looks like because it's way too dirty, once cleaned up, it'll be better, But still...
 

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Why would you need to change the plate in a new pump? Wouldn't it be enough to seal the joints properly, so the corrosion doesn't get through?
You will still develop moisture in plate section ,if you dont upgrade plate your pump actually may fail sooner than expected
 

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I spray the whole area with plastidip. Then sprayed complete rear under belly with clear high temp ceramic engine paint. Looks like new under there.
 

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Ummm.....you do realize the pump needs a way to dissipate the heat right?
 

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Pump cools pretty well. I made a cover for it also. But that was too much. I could smell the plastidip. Cools just fine without cover on it. Still need to see how it is on a 90 degree + day.
 

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A complete fix is removing the AYC altogether, RS rear diff is a good thing. ;)
 
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