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Yep, a bit of a bummer for those of us who spent $750 on a relocation kit, thankfully I've not installed mine yet so I'll hold off until the last pump under warranty is provided before doing the relocation.

I wonder if those Evo owners who had to pay for their replacement pump will get a credit/refund from Mitsu...
Now it's like playing poker on when's the right time to install it. I'd look over the pump and if the pump looks fairly good then relocate. If it looks in bad shape then maybe let it die first and get a brand new one before relocating. That said, relocation should not void a "corrosion" warranty.
 

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Since my AYC pump broke for the third time and now there's now easy way of rebuilding it I'm ordering a new pump. This time I want to make sure that it lasts a long time like it should. After reading lots of threads on the issue, I came across many useful advices on how to preserve the pump.
So, may be it's good to have a thread that summarizes all the experience and hopefully will result in a overall solution that everyone should implement.
So, the firs step is protecting the pump against rust by coating it with an anticorrosion lubricant.
The second issue is cold weather and pump going bad due to the increased viscosity of the fluid. There, I was thinking, I could put up a simple heating solution that would connect the pump circuit only after the fluid or the pump itself is at a certain temperature (t1). The heating will be operating from a 12V power when the car is running and will be truned off when the temperature (t2) is , let's say 10-15 degrees higher than t1.
The question here is, what exactly should be heated: the pump itself, the liquid reservoir, some hoses?
Another solution would be to reprogram the ACD ECU so that the pump is turned on at a certain temperature of the liquid, or if there is no such a measurement, some other parameter - time, oil temp, transmission oil temp, etc. As far as I know from checking evom, ACD tuning is already possible, so making this simple mod should not be a problem.
Please share you experiences and ideas.
The problem is where it's located! And the dealerships in Canada not including it in power train.
We got one replaced less than a year ago and its cooked again.
There is a relocation kit to move it to the truck not behind the right wheel in the fender with the bolts exposed
287357
 

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My AWC light has been blinking for a few months now. I've been reading up on the AYC Pump rebuild, and various options to help prevent issues. I think I got lucky and scored a brand new OEM "Hydraulic Unit" which seem to be harder to find these days. With this fresh pump there's no way I'm just sticking it back under the fender. Does anyone have experience with either the Driven Fabrication or Club Spec pump relocation kits? They seem fairly similar.

Some people say that heat is an issue with these pumps. Does it really get that hot in normal operation that it needs to be outside the car in moving air? I've also read that besides the corrosion of wintery areas, the cold temperatures cause the fluid to thicken, causing excessive load on the electric motors? I see Driven Fab sells Redline D4 ATF as replacement and does mention "designed to satisfy the improved low-temperature requirements". Anyone know if this does work better than the OEM Diaqueen fluid?

Lastly, once I get it all hooked up it'll need a bleed. There's the AYC/ACD Bleed Control Box from evolution hydraulics in the UK. They seem to be the only company that specializes in this system? Is there any US based company with good knowledge, experience, service and support for Mitsubishi AWC systems? I'm curious what the dealership might charge just to bleed the system? Did find one local tuner who said they had done one replacement, years ago, and used their advanced scan tool to perform the bleed, and mentioned it was a PITA. Thanks!
 

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My AWC light has been blinking for a few months now. I've been reading up on the AYC Pump rebuild, and various options to help prevent issues. I think I got lucky and scored a brand new OEM "Hydraulic Unit" which seem to be harder to find these days. With this fresh pump there's no way I'm just sticking it back under the fender. Does anyone have experience with either the Driven Fabrication or Club Spec pump relocation kits? They seem fairly similar.

Some people say that heat is an issue with these pumps. Does it really get that hot in normal operation that it needs to be outside the car in moving air? I've also read that besides the corrosion of wintery areas, the cold temperatures cause the fluid to thicken, causing excessive load on the electric motors? I see Driven Fab sells Redline D4 ATF as replacement and does mention "designed to satisfy the improved low-temperature requirements". Anyone know if this does work better than the OEM Diaqueen fluid?

Lastly, once I get it all hooked up it'll need a bleed. There's the AYC/ACD Bleed Control Box from evolution hydraulics in the UK. They seem to be the only company that specializes in this system? Is there any US based company with good knowledge, experience, service and support for Mitsubishi AWC systems? I'm curious what the dealership might charge just to bleed the system? Did find one local tuner who said they had done one replacement, years ago, and used their advanced scan tool to perform the bleed, and mentioned it was a PITA. Thanks!
don't want to sell your pump for $ 100 that doesn't work ?
 
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