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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So recently i replaced my clutch and had to do the master cylinder as well. I have driven many stick cars over the years and never drove a clutch that burns as easy as this one. I went with a stage 2 on/off comp clutch...which was a recommendation from a tuner. So far i think the clutch is good...but i feel that the after market master cylinder is the issue.
The car burns soooo easy its actually odd, i have owned 5 clutch cars and never burned them, my 1974 triumph tr6 had an after market clutch and i never had an issue. In the evo, Backing up i get smell, even when watching rpms...and i never go over 1500 to 1900 rpms. And forwards is easier but it still happens.
The clutch has been worked in about 3 thousands miles....any idea of what the issue could be and has anyone else replaced the master cylinder and had issues. The car drives very jerkish and race like. If you not going fast its not smooth...which is to be expected with a race clutch...but the other race clutches i have driven on stis and si's where not half as bad. I worked the clutch in slow...never went over 4 rpms for over 1,000 miles.
Not sure what to do from here.
i still love my evo though ::D
 

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Where's the engagement point, Kyle? Low?


Also-- Was it 3k Highway miles or street miles? 3k doesnt mean squat if the clutch is engaged the whole time.

Follow up question: How did you pack on 3k street miles that fast :p
 

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had the stage 2+ competition clutch kit w/flywheel on my genesis, it was kind of notchy, didn't have a burning smell though. may need to be bled or something like zabes said. also noticed my buddies evo x with the exedy clutch had a pretty jerky feel to it as well, not smooth at all. when i replaced it with the act hd clutch and flywheel it was a lot better, smoother than stock. may have something to do with getting used to it or as i said before bleeding it. where does the clutch catch when you let it out?
 

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The CMC you're using is known to be a POS. Get an Evo 9 CMC & Magnus adapter. You shouldn't be having a smell from the clutch unless you're abusing it. Otherwise I'd say you're not getting a complete engagement/disengagement.
 

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Side note-- Mine used to burn in reverse for the longest time.

IAllen he has the V3.
 

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Really now... Thought the V3 was without problems.
 

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Interesting.

Do you have your stock one laying around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
catches quick

had the stage 2+ competition clutch kit w/flywheel on my genesis, it was kind of notchy, didn't have a burning smell though. may need to be bled or something like zabes said. also noticed my buddies evo x with the exedy clutch had a pretty jerky feel to it as well, not smooth at all. when i replaced it with the act hd clutch and flywheel it was a lot better, smoother than stock. may have something to do with getting used to it or as i said before bleeding it. where does the clutch catch when you let it out?
The clutch was adjusted to catch right away at the pedal, was frustrating but eventually got it down, they then adjusted it afterwards so it catches a little closer to mid point on the pedal release. And if I may ask im not familiar with clutch jobs, this was the first car where it had to be replaced while i owned it, how do you bleed the clutch? My fear is the amount of money it would cost me, I did the DP when i did the clutch and then the master cylinder went to...just blew 3400 bucks over the past few months. :confused2::confused2:

I did the clutch a few months back and the miles where maily back steets, alot of stop and go, and its a daily driver so the 3,000 miles where easy to put on and I reverse out my drive way every day. the weird part about reverse is that in forward when watching the RPMs i match them with reverse and It might smell slightly, but never smells in 1st forward.
 

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Are you slipping it more in reverse because you need to move slower going backwards than from a standstill going forward?

Reverse is naturally awkward.
 

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It may be necessary to prime the master cylinder prior to bleeding
the system, the easiest way is to remove the cap from the
clutch/brake fluid reservoir and compress the slave cylinder with a pry
bar. You will see bubbles come out of the reservoir, this means the air
is coming out of the system, once the bubbles no longer come out the
system has been bled.

From the AMS Website^

THANKS AMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I usually ride the clutch a little more then i want to in reverse just to make sure i dont hit things. But i try not to slip it to much going forward enless its a hill.
 

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That might be the reason. Riding the clutch in reverse?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Riding is not how i should put it, but I very rarely release the clutch all the way out, when it was adjusted it was the same on off grabby feeling, just halfway through the release of the clutch, instead of right when the pedal left the floor. at first i found this more aggravating then when it was near the floor and grabbing, but know that im use to it I rarley get smell. but backing up is still a total pain in the ass
 
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