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Not really sure where to put this. I figured here would be a good place.

I came across this on another forum. These are the JDM model turbo sizes, but should be the same for USDM models...

Evo VIII - TD05HR-16G6-9.8T
VIII MR - TD05HR-16G6-10.5T

Evo IX - TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T
IX MR - TD05HRA-155G6C-10.5T

Evo X GSR & MR - TD05HA-152G6-12T

Here are the exact specs for the USDM Evo X....

TD05HA-152G6-12T
Compressor: 12 blade (6 full/6 splitter), 68mm diameter, 48 Trim
Turbine: 12 blade, 56mm,76Trim
Turbine Housing A/R: 10.5cm^2
Wastegate Actuator Open Pressure: 11psi





Just figured this might be helpful to some. Because I know it was for me lol.
 

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I wish i knew what this meant...
 

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Just figured this might be helpful to some. Because I know it was for me lol.
Curious, how was it helpful to you? When determining which larger turbo to go with? Serious question, just want to know what aspect this knowledge helped with...

Or when comparing with the Evo IX turbo which is placed on a completely different engine strapped to a much lighter car? I just don't see the correlation is all.
 

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Also, there is a thread on turbos (stock frame anyway). This should either be merged or stickied under that thread.
 

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Yea, I agree. I mean right now I'm not financially able to afford a lot of mods yet. So, I am looking into tweaking the car as it is to get the most power.
You are asking for trouble, these cars can rack up a HUGE bill quite quickly if anything goes wrong. The rods are noted to be a bit on the weak side, and forget about your warranty, especially if you are "tweaking" things.

I'm in Doraville, and if you swing by you can see my original 4B11T... under the glass of my coffee table. All that along with the remaining parts of my former #3 piston and rod.

I'm sure the cost has gone down a bit from when I needed to get a replacement short block, but I can tell you, it ain't cheap. The damage you can do, in an instant, is pretty much another whole order of magnitude over the cost of the mods you say you are not financially stable enough to afford.

Enjoy your car, forget about the higher power numbers until you have the $$ to do it properly and safely. This will save you terrible headaches, lost time, and TONS more cash if you do it the right way. Mark my words, if you break something, you and your pocketbook will regret it for a long time.
 

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You are asking for trouble, these cars can rack up a HUGE bill quite quickly if anything goes wrong. The rods are noted to be a bit on the weak side, and forget about your warranty, especially if you are "tweaking" things.

I'm in Doraville, and if you swing by you can see my original 4B11T... under the glass of my coffee table. All that along with the remaining parts of my former #3 piston and rod.

I'm sure the cost has gone down a bit from when I needed to get a replacement short block, but I can tell you, it ain't cheap. The damage you can do, in an instant, is pretty much another whole order of magnitude over the cost of the mods you say you are not financially stable enough to afford.

Enjoy your car, forget about the higher power numbers until you have the $$ to do it properly and safely. This will save you terrible headaches, lost time, and TONS more cash if you do it the right way. Mark my words, if you break something, you and your pocketbook will regret it for a long time.
This needs some further explanation and pictures.
 

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I'm sure the cost has gone down a bit from when I needed to get a replacement short block, but I can tell you, it ain't cheap. The damage you can do, in an instant, is pretty much another whole order of magnitude over the cost of the mods you say you are not financially stable enough to afford.
This is something that, unfortunately, needs to be experienced in order to learn from it. I know EXACTLY what you're talking about unfortunately :(

Just one WOT away from an insane bill. Back when I was in the Navy I almost re-enlisted for this... very... reason. :(:(:(
 

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Evo IX JDM comes with TD05HRA-16G6mC-10.5T
m denoting Magnesium wheel

TD05 = size of the mitsubishi turbo .. 03/04/05/06 denotes the size
H = high pressure
R = reverse rotation
A = Titanium alloy turbines
16 = size of the compressor wheels (arbituary number .. can't remember exactly what it means..)
G6 = number of blades / diffusers
C= compressor housing type
10.5T = size of turbine outlet housing ( ie 9.8 = 9.8cm^2 .. 12 = 12cm^2)

Stock X turbo compressor measures 68mm exducer and 47mm inducer (that or 45mm can't remember)

Only JDM GSRs (that includes SSTs and manuals) comes with titanium turbos ..

All the rest of the world (and JDM RS) uses TD05H-152G inconnel wheels

Not really sure where to put this. I figured here would be a good place.

I came across this on another forum. These are the JDM model turbo sizes, but should be the same for USDM models...

Evo VIII - TD05HR-16G6-9.8T
VIII MR - TD05HR-16G6-10.5T

Evo IX - TD05HR-16G6C-10.5T
IX MR - TD05HRA-155G6C-10.5T

Evo X GSR & MR - TD05HA-152G6-12T

Here are the exact specs for the USDM Evo X....

TD05HA-152G6-12T
Compressor: 12 blade (6 full/6 splitter), 68mm diameter, 48 Trim
Turbine: 12 blade, 56mm,76Trim
Turbine Housing A/R: 10.5cm^2 wrong
Wastegate Actuator Open Pressure: 11psi
 

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So stock is twin scroll, what aftermarkets are also twin scroll? The GTII is I believe, what about the FP Green/Red/Black BBX/BBX Lite?
 
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