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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Due to stock turbo seal broke, I'm in process of change an aftermarket turbo. The process was never been smooth to me as I found out the oil feed line hole is now stripped (yes, the one on the Aluminum engine block). Anyone has some suggestion?
 

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:duh: its a simple fix if the engine is out not so simple with it in. you need to get an adapter for the line and then tap the block out so it matches the size on the adapter the trick is hand tapping straight with the engine in good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:duh: its a simple fix if the engine is out not so simple with it in. you need to get an adapter for the line and then tap the block out so it matches the size on the adapter the trick is hand tapping straight with the engine in good luck!
Unfortunately, the engine still in the car. Yes, it will be much easier for the engine to be out. :(
 

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I had the same problem! Do you have an upgraded oil feed line? Is it completely stripped out, try screwing the banjo bolt in to see if you get some threads. I changed the banjo fitting at the end of my upgraded oil feed line to a thinner fitting, giving the banjo bolt more threads to grab, I only stripped the first few threads so the thinner fitting let the bolt screw in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had the same problem! Do you have an upgraded oil feed line? Is it completely stripped out, try screwing the banjo bolt in to see if you get some threads. I changed the banjo fitting at the end of my upgraded oil feed line to a thinner fitting, giving the banjo bolt more threads to grab, I only stripped the first few threads so the thinner fitting let the bolt screw in.
Yeah. It was working once when longer banjo bolt. Bought the upgraded oil feed line from FP and the stupid filter kept leaking, so had to take the banjo off again to replace with a regular line. This time when bolt back, the thread gave up. Thinking to put in a heli coil....
 

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I put in a heli-coil in mine.... and I always second guess myself about it. It's been fine since, hasn't leaked or anything since. I would recommend doing these things if I could do it all over again. A better fix could potentially be a time-sert(sp?).... if I knew about them at the time I did it, I would have checked with a good mechanic to see if they thought it was an option. If so I would have gone that route despite the higher cost.

1) Use a drill bit one size smaller than the one recommended to use with the tap. (as close as possible, but close) I used a 90 degree drill adapter, tighened the chuck down on the bit... and slowly drilled it out via hand(on the chuck, aluminum is plenty soft for this). Since I did it by hand, slowly... and to say the least at a terrible angle, the hole ended up being ever so slightly larger than the bit originally. Simply from not being able to hold the bit perfectly still in a straight line while turning it via hand. I also kept a heavy grease on the tip of the bit each time I entered it to slowly drill it, to make any metal burs stick to the bit, making it easier to remove.

2) When tapping this is what I did.... a tap can only thread so far in the block. I tapped the block slowly as fas as I could. The I used a dremel to cut a few threads off the tap, retapped it.... cut a few threads off, retapped it. And so on... Upon completion I got a screw where I KNEW the head couldnt pass through the hole at the back of the threaded area. I pressed the head against it, then shot brake cleaner in there to remove any metal shavings, and grease from having it applied to the bit.

3) Lastly... make sure the heli-coil isn't too deep for the hole, as you insert a helicoil it gets a little longer too... so cut off the excess prior to screwing it in the block. I put a little red loc-tite on the outside of the Heli-Coil when threading in the block to try to make sure it didnt walk out in time.

4) Have some AWESOME needle nose pliers.... you may spend 40 bucks on a high quality pair, but this will help make sure you can securely grab the tang when you break it off without worrying about it falling inside and through the hole in a worst case scenario.
 

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I had the same problem! Do you have an upgraded oil feed line? Is it completely stripped out, try screwing the banjo bolt in to see if you get some threads. I changed the banjo fitting at the end of my upgraded oil feed line to a thinner fitting, giving the banjo bolt more threads to grab, I only stripped the first few threads so the thinner fitting let the bolt screw in.
I also sourced out a longer banjo-bolt.
http://www.hdmaddog.com/Fittings/AN-Fitting-Stainless-p9509896.html
(NO LONGER AVAIL)

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Banjo-Bolt-M10x1-25-25mm-Long-/160618200179 same specs it looks like... M10x1.25 25mm long

I would highly recommend this to anyone who has an aftermarket feed line with a wider/fatter banjo fitting... allowing more threads to go in the block.
 

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Yeah. It was working once when longer banjo bolt. Bought the upgraded oil feed line from FP and the stupid filter kept leaking, so had to take the banjo off again to replace with a regular line. This time when bolt back, the thread gave up. Thinking to put in a heli coil....
Any idea why it was leaking? A problem with the feed line itself?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I also sourced out a longer banjo-bolt.
http://www.hdmaddog.com/Fittings/AN-Fitting-Stainless-p9509896.html
(NO LONGER AVAIL)

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Banjo-Bolt-M10x1-25-25mm-Long-/160618200179 same specs it looks like... M10x1.25 25mm long

I would highly recommend this to anyone who has an aftermarket feed line with a wider/fatter banjo fitting... allowing more threads to go in the block.

Thanks a lot for the help. Going to have fun with the tapping. hopefully, this is the last time I'm doing turbo swap..
 

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Bumping an old thread because I'm in this situation now :(

Has anyone done this with the motor in? I went to a couple places today and they suggested removing the motor or dropping the axel/transfer case to get at it.

I might be able to get away without drilling the hole as the threads came out on the bolt and it is aluminium. I'm going to check when I buy the helicoil kit if that's the way I go to make sure the drill bit isn't too many thousandths over the original bolt size.
 

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I did this to my car also. I got the helicoil set, worked fine for the last year. everyone says the helicoil is stronger than the real thing. I had a shop install mine tho, can't take any chances of stravation or bye bye engine and turbo.
 

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Bump

This is happing to me now :(! I over torque the bolt and broke it, I was lucky enough tho I was able to back out the rest of the bolt. Then I notice that I striped a couple of the threads in the engine block. I order a 10mm x 1.25 banjo bolt that I will be installing tonight, hopefully will work or I am F*%#!!!!
 

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BUMP. Literally just did this. I was only using my thumb to tighten the bolt and stripped the threads in the block. I'm crying right now.
 

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I tapped the hole to 1/4 NPT with some heavy duty grease on it to catch the shavings. Also pulled the injector relay and cranked to push shavings out of the hole. Then I installed a 1/4 NPT male to 4AN male flare to fit my flexible feed line. Easy and cheap
 

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Yep, this happen to me earlier this year man. I feel you pain, I was in tears when this happen too. I had to get my car towed to a shop where they taped it and installed a 4 AN. Best of luck buddy!!
 

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I tapped the hole to 1/4 NPT with some heavy duty grease on it to catch the shavings. Also pulled the injector relay and cranked to push shavings out of the hole. Then I installed a 1/4 NPT male to 4AN male flare to fit my flexible feed line. Easy and cheap
Just did this exactly. worked til 5:30 this am getting the car ready and slept til 8. Running on 2.5 hours of sleep now…………………. :coffee:

I still have not tried to start the car. About to flash a base map due to whole new setup and let it idle to check for leaks. The 1/4NPT didn't seem to want to get REAL tight in the block, but I was afraid to push my luck and rip those threads out. About to go back out in the garage….Wish me luck!
 
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