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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I just noticed a leak coming from the mating surface of the trans and t-case. I'm assuming I must have nicked a seal/o-ring when re-installing my trans after my latest clutch failure, roughly 4500 miles ago. I'm looking for help in diagnosing which seal or seals I damaged so I can fix the leak. I'm not positive but based on smell the fluid leaking is the diaqueen t-case fluid and not my amsoil trans fluid.

Any ideas which seal or seals need to be replaced and what are the part numbers. I found this part number MN132370 for the big o-ring on the side of the t-case is this correct.

Here's some pictures first one is the spot from leak on my under-panel, next one is of the leak. I couldn't get a great picture but the leak is coming from the mating surface that is in that gap.

Thanks for any help.



 

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Mine is leaking on the same place and it was also after the new clutch was installed. How bad is urs leaking?
 

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I'd give Jack's transmissions a call and ask them. They'll set you straight, and can ship you the parts you need as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The leak really doesnt seem bad its probably been leaking for the whole 4500 miles. Ill try giving Jack's a call today or monday if im too late and report back.
 

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The gaskets are cheap enough, you could also just order...all of them for a tcase swap and just swap them all. Usually the tcase leaks at the rear main seal where it connects to the driveshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just emailed jacks hopefully I'll here back soon. I will probably end up ordering all the seals for the trans to t-case mating surface as that is definitely where the leak is and having spares or swapping all of them can't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update.
Jacks got back to me they just added a full seal kit to their site, it includes 2 o-rings and 2 seals that are used for their stage 0 rebuild. Price is 129.99 I will probably going this route and either replacing all the seals or selling the ones I don't need.

Thanks for the suggestions and ill update again after fixing the issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick update. I have the seal kit and fluids ready to go just got slammed with school work these last couple weeks. Hopefully I will be pulling the t-case tomorrow depending on the weather. I will try and throw together a how-to might not be great but we'll see.
 

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Quick update. I have the seal kit and fluids ready to go just got slammed with school work these last couple weeks. Hopefully I will be pulling the t-case tomorrow depending on the weather. I will try and throw together a how-to might not be great but we'll see.
Good, i still have the leak, might ask the dealer to check it while doing the cmc
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok here's a quick and dirty how-to if there's interest ill take the time to write it up more formally and include my own step by step instead of adding to hollywood's clutch change how-to. Note this is for a gsr I have no idea if parts will differ between the manual and sst. Sorry in advance for the cell phone pictures.

Be advised this is barely easier than a clutch swap and is a PITA if using jack-stands as opposed to a lift.

OK to start off you need to get the t-case out of the car for this we will follow hollywood's how-to ( http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20757 ) with a few changes to make life simpler.

The changes are that you only need to remove the following pieces not listed in any particular order.

From engine bay
UICP
Rubber portion of LICP
Strut bar
Intake and turbo inlet
BPV hose and BPV
Intake bracket
Disconnect shifter cables

Now under the car
Remove under-panel
Remover front wheels
Front cross-member
the brace panel that is under/behind the downpipe
Cat-back (not necessary to remove the whole thing but it gives you more room to work)
Remove downpipe (just lower portion if stock)
Pinch acd line (pg 25 in hollywood's how-to)
Drain trans and t-case
Remove front axle nuts
Remove front axles by using the method on pg 18 of hollywood's
Remove drives side stub shaft using slide hammer
Remove the forward portion of the drive shaft
Place your jack on the square peg at the rear of transmission
jack up just enough to remove the rear motor mount bolt
Unbolt the t-case from the trans and remove as stated in hollywood's how to.

OK so now that the t-case is out inspect your seals to find which ones need replacing.

It seems both the seal and o-ring on the drivers side of mine were slightly damaged so on to replacing those.





The o-ring is self explanatory just pull the old one off with out scratching the mating surface clean any dirt/oil/debris from the surface and re-install the new one.

The other seal was a little tricky. I'm assuming Jack's and Sheps would disassemble the t-case to remove the seal since there's very little room to pry the seal without damaging a mating surface when the t-case is assembled. But i was not going to open mine up and inevitably put it back together wrong. I tried several attempts with picks and just manged to rip the seal to pieces. So I bought this seal puller from autozone and very carefully inserted it into the gap so as not to damage the surface and the seal popped right out.



With the old seal out again carefully clean the mating surfaces then install. I used a rubber mallet to gently seat the seal. Make sure you go slow and keep the seal even and press it in until it is flush.

Then "simply" throw everything back the way you removed it and refill your fluids.

Hopefully this helps, let me know if there are any questions or if you would like me to make a more in depth version.
 
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