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Discussion Starter #1
I want to order a test pipe to remove the cat converter and get a 02 bung for my wideband. My question is, does anyone have issues with the AMS test pipe with it rubbing on the drive shaft or any other parts? I been looking at the ETS pipe and it has a bend in it claiming other pipes wil rub. However with shipping the pipe from ETS comes to $387 and if i order from AMS its only $280. (mostly all the difference is in the shipping)
 

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dude if you dont care about brand names you can always go with the rexpeed. I got mine 110 dollars shipped to Fort Mcmurray, piece looks good and still looks good after a month or so. Comes with extra bung for wideband and doesnt rub ( it has the bend in it). You can ask weebles as well as he helped me put it in, it looked like a great piece especially for the price. Also speed was great. I received it in like 4 or 5 days.
 

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I have the ETS test pipe and I really like it, no exhaust rattles at all. But I'm sure the other ones mentioned are good as well. However, I suggest you get your wideband bung in the downpipe instead of the test pipe, are you planning on getting a downpipe?
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
yea im getting a dp as well. That was a question i forgot to ask. Assuming you remove the cat, does it matter where it goes (on dp or on tp)...and why.

In most cases i believe you get what you paid for. Not knocking the other companies but i feel abit un-easy about buying a test pipe that is only $110 from one shop but from a place like ETS/AMS its 2x the amount.
 

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In most cases i believe you get what you paid for. Not knocking the other companies but i feel abit un-easy about buying a test pipe that is only $110 form one shop but from a place like ETS/AMS its 2x the amount.
You are absolutely right on usually getting what you paid for, and to pay over $200 on a piece of pipe with flanges and bungs welded to it seem a bit excessive.
 

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does anyone have issues with the AMS test pipe with it rubbing on the drive shaft or any other parts?
The CAt conv or test pipe is no where near any driveshaft. No chance of rubbing the drive shafts.

A cat-back system, possibly but not a cat or test pipe.
 

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yea im getting a dp as well. That was a question i forgot to ask. Assuming you remove the cat, does it matter where it goes (on dp or on tp)...and why.

In most cases i believe you get what you paid for. Not knocking the other companies but i feel abit un-easy about buying a test pipe that is only $110 from one shop but from a place like ETS/AMS its 2x the amount.
It's best to put it on the DP, the reason being is that you get a more accurate reading which is somewhat important when it comes to AFR's, its not a huge deal if your just doing basic bolt ons and putting it on the TP but I would get it on the DP just in case you go for a little more in the future. It doesn't hurt to be more accurate.

I'm with you to be honest, especially with our shitty winters I'd be a little hesitant to buy a $110 TP good or not. With ETS I've driven it through one winter and I have no rusting and the welds are in good shape. Its a great TP, do it right the first time imo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just picked a T1R Resinated Test pipe from a local member for $100. Will there be any issue with fitment on stock dp and stock exhaust since it will go 2.5" - 3" - 2.5" ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just installed the pipe, no issues getting it in. Did anyone else reinstall the heatshields? They do fit around the resinator but i left them off...although im worried about the sensor wire hanging below the pipe.
 
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