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Discussion Starter #1
I have a question. When you guys swap yours snow tires for the summer tires do you mark which tires go where? Would it affect how straight your car drives?

Basically I had snow tires... car drove straight when i took them off. Place put summer tires on that i bought and the car drove crooked. Place then swapped my right and left... it drove crooked the other direction and so they replaced the summer tire and then it drove straight. Now i just had my snow tires put on again and the car drives crooked again?

Any ideas.

On another note how many of you have had your valve stems crack? I have a leak from one now (who knows if the tire shop caused it) and I've already had one replaced?

Lastly,
anybody figure out how to turn off the TPMS yet? I'd like to just get regular rubber valves so I don't have to goto the dealership everytime one of these valves goes.
 

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lots of summer tires have directional tread, which probably translates into different rolling resistance when going backwards. There should be an arrow on each tire to mark the direction of rotation
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok this is bullshhit... so i take the wheel off the car to rotate it to the other side so i can do a swap and and see if the tire\wheel is causing the pull. I roll the tire not even a foot to take it to the other side of the car and now this tirestem breaks... what a fuking joke. That's the third one now?!??!
 

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I vote less on the directional tire pull, more on radial pull from a slipped belt or bad tire, but even that isn't very common.

Just before getting wrapped up in everything,
--verify the wheel is bolted on properly with proper lug torque.
--Verify no hub-centric spacer or other stuff is missing or included when it shouldn't.
--Verify that the tires are actually the same size and the wheels have the same offset.
--Lastly, when you swapped your wheels, check to make sure you didn't knock a part of your steering or suspension out.

Long time ago when I worked at a shop this guy came in and had jacked his car up to put a spare on, but didn't realize he wasn't on the control arm, the weight of the car was on a tie-rod. It bent the tie-rod and it's why the car wasn't driving straight. It was an error of inexperience more than anything. complete PITA because he had to replace the punctured tire too.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I vote less on the directional tire pull, more on radial pull from a slipped belt or bad tire, but even that isn't very common.

Just before getting wrapped up in everything,
--verify the wheel is bolted on properly with proper lug torque.
--Verify no hub-centric spacer or other stuff is missing or included when it shouldn't.
--Verify that the tires are actually the same size and the wheels have the same offset.
--Lastly, when you swapped your wheels, check to make sure you didn't knock a part of your steering or suspension out.

Long time ago when I worked at a shop this guy came in and had jacked his car up to put a spare on, but didn't realize he wasn't on the control arm, the weight of the car was on a tie-rod. It bent the tie-rod and it's why the car wasn't driving straight. It was an error of inexperience more than anything. complete PITA because he had to replace the punctured tire too.
Wasn't me who changed the tires. Was tire shop
Wheels just sat in my attic. Unless the donks at the tire shop damaged them they should be fine.
 

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1. super-glue the stem, that's what I did when mine broke (This was temporary and I got a new one when I bought my next set of tires
2. Alignment is not needed when swapping tires. The alignment lines up the suspension, not the tires/wheels
 

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Wasn't me who changed the tires. Was tire shop
Wheels just sat in my attic. Unless the donks at the tire shop damaged them they should be fine.
I've seen shops do some stupid sh!t. Good Luck on sorting this out quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I take my two wheels up to the dealership this morning and the a-hole tells me I need to wait 30minutes just to see if they have the TPMS in stock. What a freaking joke... I told him to move the cars outta my way so i could leave... and I'm going with the rubber valve's from the local tire shop (NOT THE ONE WHO INSTALLED MY TIRES BY THE WAY)....

What a mess. The rubber ones are probably safer anyhow cause I don't have to worry about the stem corroding and breaking off while driving. It's probably galvanic corrosion between the brake dust and the aluminum valve stems. Genious!

Maybe somebody will sue them one day for being so stupid. My car isn't even 2 years old and I got 22000 miles.... And 3 of the 4 valve stems have failed. Sounds safe to me.
 

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-TP...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c20d10fa6
you can buy a spare used set pretty cheap. i leave sensors in all the sets of wheels i have and just program them when swapping. i have seen maybe 10 sensors have stem problems and a couple of those had not ever been messed with. but it sounds more like your case is a problem with the shop installing the tires to have that many problems. if you over tighten the stems or cores even a little they will break.
 
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