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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings folks,
The titles says it all. Ive searched just about every source i could come across, looking for stories about ppl who have encountered a problem similar to the one im currently having. Up to this point, ive managed to find ones that resemble my issue, but dont fully equal it. My problem is with the clutch operation. I had been driving my '10 gsr for about 30min, when i attempted to slow down for a light. I depressed the clutch pedal and felt engine vibration upon reaching the halfway point of the pedal stroke. When i went to select first gear, it was difficult to engage, which gave me reason to believe i wasnt getting full disengagement. My theory was further confirmed as i tried to start moving, due to the fact that I had all but lost my slip travel. The clutch bit about one inch off the floor, and i had no ability to slip it. I checked the entire hydraulic system and found nothing unusual. Also, the problem never got worse, or better for that matter, and actual pedal feel, remains normal. My clutch setup consists of a Spec stage 3 pressure plate and disk, oem slave w/pill removed, braided line, and evo 9 cmc. Ive yet to get weather nice enough to jack up the car and look inside the bell housing through the inspection hole, although i did pull the release fork boot and look inside. I wasnt able to see anything that looked abnormal. I could see that the release levers on the pressure plate appeared to be intact and undamaged. I could also see part of the tob and retainer collar, which also appeared undamaged, and im not hearing any odd sounds. So, I wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue or heard of it happening, Im aware of the collar breaking and the release fork being prone to over traveling. It just seems like every case ive read where theres a failure related to the tob, operation of the clutch ceases immediately. I still have some operation, albeit, not much. I would think that if the tob were to become fully separated from the pressure plate, disengagement of the clutch would be impossible. Im already putting together a game plan to pull the trans, and i know what that involves. I just want to know what im dealing with, and what parts to get. Im thinking ill get a new tob, radium stop, and a monoloc (even though i supposedly have one already). Other than that stuff, i dont know. Ideally, id like to put it back together in a way where this doesnt happen again. Ive already replaced one cmc because of failure. Believe it or not, it was a evo 9 cmc that failed, not the garbage plastic one. Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read this post, and thanks in advance for any input. Im really itching to get back on the road!!
-WILL
 

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I'm under the presumption that your Comp clutch blew up. Buddy lost one of the springs out of the hub and had the same issues you had. Hard shifting, never quite disengaged, etc. The only other issue it could reasonably be is a bent clutch fork, but that happens far less often than the comp clutch failures. Unfortunately, they just haven't got the X platform down just right. They are a great company, the X seems to be the Achilles heel.

The other possibility is the clutch pedal bracket is somehow damaged, but that is a far less common issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
turismolover22,
Thanks for the reply.

I finally got around to undoing the 25 or so bolts that hold on the skid tray i have, so that i could take a look inside the bell housing, via the inspection hole.

I didnt see any obvious broken parts, however its obvious that the tob has some how managed to shift away from the pressure plate levers on one side, causing the friction disk to stay partial clamped when the pedal is pressed.

It appears that the car has a monoloc retaining collar, and a dreaded spec brand clutch, even though its never slipped or messed up, until now.....

I cant see/figure out what is exactly broken, or what caused the tob to become misaligned. It does explain why im getting that vibration from the pedal, seeing has how the misaligned tob creates a wobble during rotation, which makes it unbalanced, thus causing the vibration.

Its also the reason why i cant get it into gear very easy when the car is stopped. The release fork is only able to travel far enough for one area of the pressure plate to unclamp the friction disk, while the side that is pulled out, remains slightly clamped.

At this point, im trying to figure out what happened, and what i need to replace. I cant seem to identify the name of the two claw rings that sandwich around the pressure plate levers.

I know what the retainer collar is and i have the monoloc already on there, but every time i attempt to look for the other collars, the retaining collars are the only thing that come up.

Im wondering if they only come already attached with the pressure plate, can they be obtained separately, or do they come included with a new tob, for example?

Hopefully this new info will shed some light on my situation. If anyone has seen this before, or knows for sure if its due to a failure of the pressure plate, id love to know!

Here are two screen grabs from a video i shot showing the fork as it articulates. it shows how misaligned the assembly has become.

-Will
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286538
 

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Its very likely that you lost a spring from the friction disc sprung hub. They fall out and get wedged between the diaphragm fingers and the clamp surface of the pressure plate.

This was the exact failure my friend had on a comp Stage2 clutch, and his TOB looked the exact same.
 
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