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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I uploaded a video of my Evo X's boost gauge. The gauge recorded me going up a hill (about 10 degrees) in 3rd gear, from 3000-7200 RPM. My EVC is set to 165kPa and everything else on my car is stock. Notice how it peaks to about 170kPa and gradually drops to about 120kPa. When it was stock, it would drop down to about 85kPa at a faster rate.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ctvAb_j-Qfc
 

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holy bejesus. That does drop. Boost guage looks nice by the way!
 

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Wow, actually, this is pretty good. Starts at 1.6, and drops to 1.3. What did you run this too? 7k? In PSI, this is only going from ~24 - 18psi at the end. Thats a much lower drop, then whats been reported so far.
 

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Wow, actually, this is pretty good. Starts at 1.6, and drops to 1.3. What did you run this too? 7k? In PSI, this is only going from ~24 - 18psi at the end. Thats a much lower drop, then whats been reported so far.
This sounds about normal. AMS did the same thing and went from 22 - 16psi.
 

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Ive seen ranges from 24 -> 13 reported by the different vendors already. The gap is narrowing though, and that is what I find interesting. Of course, the reality is a lot of things effect boost levels, so none of this really means much since its going to vary based on air density etc. I havent hooked up the boost gauge to mine yet, so I will have to see what it reports. Then I can do the same thing since I have the same defi gauges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That Defi looks lonely. He needs a couple friends.
I know :( I was planning on getting the HKS Camp 2 but it wasn't available yet so I bought this gauge.
PDXEvo said:
Wow, actually, this is pretty good. Starts at 1.6, and drops to 1.3. What did you run this too? 7k? In PSI, this is only going from ~24 - 18psi at the end. Thats a much lower drop, then whats been reported so far
Ran to 7200 RPM
Boostez said:
Hmm.. I wonder why the boost needle fluxes like that? :wtfsign:

Does the car feel any different when you are in the upper revs?
I have no idea about the fluxing, it doesn't jerk though. And yeah, there's a big difference in the upper revs, feels like a different car.


Please remember that my car ONLY has the EVC, the intake & exhaust is stock, so you can't really compare it to other posts here. Hopefully I'll have a bigger difference when I get an intake, exhaust, and ECU reflash. I plan on throwing it on a dyno after I get everything installed.
 

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Ah, thanks for clarifying the run details. It makes more sense now that you have a boost controller. I need to wire in the AVC-R again. The reason the boost needle moves around like that is because its an EBC, so what you are witnessing is the solenoid opening and closing to try and hold the peak boost levels. You can solve this by moving the gauge input further away from the solenoid and you wont get that feedback.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ah, thanks for clarifying the run details. It makes more sense now that you have a boost controller. I need to wire in the AVC-R again. The reason the boost needle moves around like that is because its an EBC, so what you are witnessing is the solenoid opening and closing to try and hold the peak boost levels. You can solve this by moving the gauge input further away from the solenoid and you wont get that feedback.
Ah, thanx for the info! I do have the gauge connected to the same hose as the controller, I'll move it away.
 

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Actually, it doesnt void the warranty. I had MMNA review my car for the tranny replacement on the Evo VIII, and I had a boost controller clearly displayed, (my avc-r), and they didnt void the warranty. The deal is, they have to prove that the boost controller caused the issues. Not to mention I also had a custom exhaust, K&N air filter, upgraded fuel rail, etc. They asked about all the components, and I was honest with them. I even went over what I had the boost set too, and why.

The cost depends on what you get. A manual boost controller runs anywhere from $50->$150 (american), and the EBC usually go anywhere from $200->$600 (american). Installation of the manual boost controllers is very simple, so you could do it yourself. The EBC's however require some wire tapping into the ECU, and several cables that need to be run through the firewall. I did all this myself and it took about 4 hours to complete on the VIII, but I soldered all the connections to the ECU. Ooo, I just remembered the ECU is in the engine bay. This would make things quite a bit easier actually. The cost will vary depending on shop installation time.

Hope this helps!
 

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cool, but you should only have to connect the wire harness that runs from the stock bleed type solenoid into the new ebcs. If the solenoid doesn't support the harness clip, then splicing has to be done, but only right at the wiring harness clip. It's just a cut and crimp job. This is how it is on the STi, at least. Just a thought, but PDX you might have created some unnecessary work for yourself by going into the ecu directly and soldering. Sounds like a pain in the ass, and could potentially be avoided. Let me know if the evo's are not this way. SiC, does my approach with the STI also work on te evo? Did you do it the same way as I did, or is PDX's way the only way? BTW, not trying to call anyone wrong here, it's just that on my STI it was a lot simpler and I wanted to check if the evo really is that different from the STi in it's solenoid setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
cool, but you should only have to connect the wire harness that runs from the stock bleed type solenoid into the new ebcs. If the solenoid doesn't support the harness clip, then splicing has to be done, but only right at the wiring harness clip. It's just a cut and crimp job. This is how it is on the STi, at least.
Actually that wouldn't work on the EVC, the EVC solenoid is controlled by the EVC controller unit. The stock solenoid is just bypassed (vacuum hoses plugged) and the wires from it are still in tact. If you disconnect it, you'll more than likely get an Engine Check Light error.

EVOGSR said:
Just a thought, but PDX you might have created some unnecessary work for yourself by going into the ecu directly and soldering. Sounds like a pain in the ass, and could potentially be avoided. Let me know if the evo's are not this way. SiC, does my approach with the STI also work on te evo? Did you do it the same way as I did, or is PDX's way the only way? BTW, not trying to call anyone wrong here, it's just that on my STI it was a lot simpler and I wanted to check if the evo really is that different from the STi in it's solenoid setup.
I actually had to go into the ECU harness for the EVC too. This is because the EVC uses throttle position, RPM, & speedometer readings.

All in all, I just think there are just so many different electronic controllers that may connect differently. Some that are independant like the EVC and some that run off the stock solenoid harness like EVOGSR's.

As for the price, I think the EVC is one of the most expensive. Should be around $550 USD for the unit and about 4 hours of installation time.
 

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SiC: Thats exactly what I was referring too. The RPM, speed, TPS, Duty Cycle, and some other stuff. $550 is pretty expensive, more so then the AVC-R. Any idea how it compares to the AVC-R? Ive been using that for years now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
$550 is pretty expensive, more so then the AVC-R. Any idea how it compares to the AVC-R? Ive been using that for years now.
The AVC-R gets good reports here, I actually think they are about the same. The EVC is suppose to have the quickest reaction time but I would assume that the difference is really minimal. As for the price, the AVC-R is about $100 USD cheaper than the EVC here.
 

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The Apexi AVC-R is extremly popular here in NZ including already being installed in many imports we get from Japan. (I am not sure about new generation ones though the ones Ive seen on the scene have been sporting the same look and features since 2003).
 
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