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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is your complete list of parts needed to do this conversion. Ask any questions, I should be able to answer. Hope this helps a lot of you.

RA(7psi)/X turbo(11psi) w/ wastegate and Jpipe
RA/X o2 housing w/ gasket
RA/X manifold w/ gasket
RA/X Intercooler(X is much bigger)
RA/X Upper and Lower intercooler piping
(Note) The X UICP will not reach the RA turbo, all you need is some longer flex piping.

Evo X injectors
New spark plugs - Iridium 2 ranges colder
RA/X downpipe

Custom U pipe from the throttle body to LICP
(Note)Best thing to do is mount the FMIC and piping and drive your car to a shop and have them bend you this pipe exactly how it needs to be.

Blow off Valve - Can be aftermarket or OEM. Best to make sure its recirculating NOT vta.
Air Intake - Can be aftermarket or OEM. Just make sure if you buy an intake for the correlating turbo. RA intake w/ RA turbo etc..

Random radiator hoses twist and turns to connect the BOV from the LICP to the Intake.

3 bar Map sensor - look up OMNI or you can get an OEM one. OEM one will fit the Intake manifold the best. The omni you will have to shave up a little bit to fit.

Battery Relocation to the trunk -- Optima Red Top battery preffered with 1g or 2g wire ran to the trunk
- Dont buy a kit, just get the battery and the correct footage amount of the power wire and ground wire. This will save you money.

Mechanical Boost gauge
AEM wideband
Gauge pod -- depends where you want to mount your gauges, mine are on the steering column.

Custom exhaust -- The NA piping will not bolt up to the downpipe. The diameter is bigger and it doesnt flow to the same spot as the OEM exhaust Manifold. If you do the install yourself just be prepared to drive to a shop with just the downpipe, lol. They will need to bend the pipes to run under your heat sheild things under the car.

HOSES and FITTINGS
Coolant Line In and Out
6 feet 6an hose
Oil Feed In Line
6 feet 4 an hose

8an Weld in Bung(Steel) - This will be need to be welded into your oil pan prior to install. When I get a chance ill try and remember to take a pic exactly where this needs to be. It goes at the highest point of the pan almost directly above the plug.

8an bung cap - Youll need this to cap the welded bung off untill you do your install.

tdo4 Oil Drain Kit - just search this on Ebay. its an 8an Line with the correct fitting to the turbo. This is the line that runs from your turbo to your weld in bung.

RA turbo - 8an oil drain kit
X turbo - 10an oil drain kit

Your car will need to use an X rom and tuned on ECU Flash. You can find roms on www.goldenevo.com Please use the correlating ROM for your car.. I.E. you drive a 2010 Manual, then try and use a 2010 X MT rom.

My best advice is to make sure you get this thing tuned by a professional. This is vital. Do it right, spend the extra money. It will pay off in the long run. They will need to be familiar with ECU Flash and EvoScan. If they work with Sti, DSM and Evos they should be.

As far as I know thats pretty much everything. If you need gaskets, get them from an OEM mitsubishi part store.

You will pay $4300 before shipping with the RRM kit. You easily stay under $4k doing it this way. You can stay under $3k if you take your time and depends how handy you are with a wrench.

Depending on what you get, you should see a minimum 70whp gain, and possibly up to 90whp gain.
 

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nice write up:clap:

have you done this to your car?
 

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Cool, but by the time you invest in all the parts and time you could have bought a used RALLIART or EVO X and been way further ahead?
lol....he's got a point there....
;)
 

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Cool, but by the time you invest in all the parts and time you could have bought a used RALLIART or EVO X and been way further ahead?
Hmm.. really? Because last time I check a used Lancer DE (My Daily Driven car) cost me 15,000$ while my MR cost me over 60,000$. What if I bought a used Evo? It would still be over 35,000$. Same with the Ralliart, unless it had quite a few kilometers on it and then it probably isn't even worth it.

So no, if you're in America where you can buy an MR for 40,000$ (The price of a Camry in Canada). Maybe .. but in Canada? I don't think so. And those prices triple when it comes to insurance.

Just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Cool, but by the time you invest in all the parts and time you could have bought a used RALLIART or EVO X and been way further ahead?
Yes, it is worth the money. I'm at 250whp 250 wtq and havent scratched the surface. My car is so much lighter as well. My car was 18k, and my insurance is low as shit. This setup can be had for $2500 done right. Obviously an Evo has more potential, but you will pay the price. I wasn't willing yet, so I decided to do something different.

This is done on my gts 2.4 manual.

Not trying to say my car is better, but this is an option for a beginner who doesn't have the money for am Evo or ra. It's a very expensive car
 

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Hmm.. really? Because last time I check a used Lancer DE (My Daily Driven car) cost me 15,000$ while my MR cost me over 60,000$. What if I bought a used Evo? It would still be over 35,000$. Same with the Ralliart, unless it had quite a few kilometers on it and then it probably isn't even worth it.

So no, if you're in America where you can buy an MR for 40,000$ (The price of a Camry in Canada). Maybe .. but in Canada? I don't think so. And those prices triple when it comes to insurance.

Just my two cents.

That is insane. I LOVE my evo to death, but if it was over $35k used I dunno that I'd buy one. Hell if a Camry is $40k, I'm pretty sure I'd ride a horse.
 

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Rolly nice write up bro, I was going to do this but then I was just like whatever I'm going to buy an EVO X :D
 

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This is your complete list of parts needed to do this conversion. Ask any questions, I should be able to answer. Hope this helps a lot of you.

RA(7psi)/X turbo(11psi) w/ wastegate and Jpipe
RA/X o2 housing w/ gasket
RA/X manifold w/ gasket
RA/X Intercooler(X is much bigger)
RA/X Upper and Lower intercooler piping
(Note) The X UICP will not reach the RA turbo, all you need is some longer flex piping.

Evo X injectors
New spark plugs - Iridium 2 ranges colder
RA/X downpipe

Custom U pipe from the throttle body to LICP
(Note)Best thing to do is mount the FMIC and piping and drive your car to a shop and have them bend you this pipe exactly how it needs to be.

Blow off Valve - Can be aftermarket or OEM. Best to make sure its recirculating NOT vta.
Air Intake - Can be aftermarket or OEM. Just make sure if you buy an intake for the correlating turbo. RA intake w/ RA turbo etc..

Random radiator hoses twist and turns to connect the BOV from the LICP to the Intake.

3 bar Map sensor - look up OMNI or you can get an OEM one. OEM one will fit the Intake manifold the best. The omni you will have to shave up a little bit to fit.

Battery Relocation to the trunk -- Optima Red Top battery preffered with 1g or 2g wire ran to the trunk
- Dont buy a kit, just get the battery and the correct footage amount of the power wire and ground wire. This will save you money.

Mechanical Boost gauge
AEM wideband
Gauge pod -- depends where you want to mount your gauges, mine are on the steering column.

Custom exhaust -- The NA piping will not bolt up to the downpipe. The diameter is bigger and it doesnt flow to the same spot as the OEM exhaust Manifold. If you do the install yourself just be prepared to drive to a shop with just the downpipe, lol. They will need to bend the pipes to run under your heat sheild things under the car.

HOSES and FITTINGS
Coolant Line In and Out
6 feet 6an hose
Oil Feed In Line
6 feet 4 an hose

8an Weld in Bung(Steel) - This will be need to be welded into your oil pan prior to install. When I get a chance ill try and remember to take a pic exactly where this needs to be. It goes at the highest point of the pan almost directly above the plug.

8an bung cap - Youll need this to cap the welded bung off untill you do your install.

tdo4 Oil Drain Kit - just search this on Ebay. its an 8an Line with the correct fitting to the turbo. This is the line that runs from your turbo to your weld in bung.

RA turbo - 8an oil drain kit
X turbo - 10an oil drain kit

Your car will need to use an X rom and tuned on ECU Flash. You can find roms on www.goldenevo.com Please use the correlating ROM for your car.. I.E. you drive a 2010 Manual, then try and use a 2010 X MT rom.

My best advice is to make sure you get this thing tuned by a professional. This is vital. Do it right, spend the extra money. It will pay off in the long run. They will need to be familiar with ECU Flash and EvoScan. If they work with Sti, DSM and Evos they should be.

As far as I know thats pretty much everything. If you need gaskets, get them from an OEM mitsubishi part store.

You will pay $4300 before shipping with the RRM kit. You easily stay under $4k doing it this way. You can stay under $3k if you take your time and depends how handy you are with a wrench.

Depending on what you get, you should see a minimum 70whp gain, and possibly up to 90whp gain.
Is there a link for the X turbo? And will it work for sure with a 2008 GTS?
 

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a friend of mine has a DE lancer a total sleeper no wing no side skirts it even had the stock hubcaps and he installed all the X turbo parts he made 253whp and was giving a run for my money before I tuned my X I was impressed of what it was capable of with just our stock parts :shades:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Yeah I got some pics kicking around.




I did this build when it was very very very new to Lancers. If I wouldnt have gotten the Evo I would have had this cleaned up alot better. Hard UICP, different intake and move the battery back up front. But yah, this was pretty much the setup for about 6 months

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
a friend of mine has a DE lancer a total sleeper no wing no side skirts it even had the stock hubcaps and he installed all the X turbo parts he made 253whp and was giving a run for my money before I tuned my X I was impressed of what it was capable of with just our stock parts :shades:
253 on the 2.0 is pretty impressive. I made over 260 but it was dialed down to 247whp on my 2.4

The tq was just retarded on the car, it annihilated my clutch within 1 month of being boosted. For future, its probably smarter for the 2.4 to use the X turbo, biggest issue is the boost. You would have to change the wastegate out for something to run lower boost. Mine ran at 10psi off the RA wastegate and that was pushing it, i felt like my car was a ticking time bomb.

All in all though, my GTS would have dominated my stock Evo, easy from a roll, would have been close from launch.
 

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I have a customer who has given us his vehicle to do this same conversion, only he unfortunatly gave us all EVO X parts and it turned out to be a nightmare.

Having to port cylidner heads to use the EVO X intake manifold, half butchered intercooler pipe, modified EVO X exhaust but at the end of the day we got it up and running.

But my main question, how did you flash the EVO X ROM onto the ECU?

I tried (Manuel vehicle flashing a manuel EVO X ROM) but it kept coming up with an error stating it could not write over a protected data area.

Would appreciate any insight into this?
 

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I have a customer who has given us his vehicle to do this same conversion, only he unfortunatly gave us all EVO X parts and it turned out to be a nightmare.

Having to port cylidner heads to use the EVO X intake manifold, half butchered intercooler pipe, modified EVO X exhaust but at the end of the day we got it up and running.

But my main question, how did you flash the EVO X ROM onto the ECU?

I tried (Manuel vehicle flashing a manuel EVO X ROM) but it kept coming up with an error stating it could not write over a protected data area.

Would appreciate any insight into this?
you try the right rom definition?
 
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