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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, everyone. Just bought my first Evo. A 2010 X GSR. I've wanted an Evo since I was in highschool and I finally got one. Some things aren't quite right with it, but I hope to have it running right very soon. Looking forward to talking with everyone and learning what I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I bought it with minimal knowledge at auction. I didn't even see under the hood, just that it ran and drove. Once I got into it I found it was modified quite a bit more than I thought. I found a dyno sheet in the owners manual showing 430hp if you can believe it's real. I know it has intake, headers, turbo, cooling system, injectors, water injection, turbo and I found a cam spec sheet with the dyno sheet. The car starts great, idles great, and runs on top end great, but down low you are limited on the amount of throttle you can use. the further below roughly 3200 rpm the less amount of throttle you can give it. If you give it to much it cuts out and starts backfiring. It feels like it hitting some sort of limiter. Trying to leave a light under 3 grand is damn near impossible, it just starts popping until it dies. I've noticed that the aem A:F gauge stays at 14.8 no matter what, it never moves. I've ordered a Cobb access port, but for now used an app on my phone to log A:F ratio and the o2 readings and I'm getting a steady 14.8 at all time. The guy at the performance shop said it was probably the tune. He said it probably had a WOT race tune, but that just doesn't sound right to me. Other than that I have an intermittent 4wd maintenance alarm and a bad squeak in the rear suspension. Sorry for being so wordy.
 

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I would cancel the order for the Cobb AP honestly. The A/F reading can’t do though the OBD.
Are there any good tuning shops near you? I think you might need a better tune. The low end sounds maybe more of a tuning issue.

The light for the AWD could be the AYC pump in the rear. That is a known issue due to the location of the pump, especially if you live up north.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I ordered the Cobb AP because the tuning shop said they prefer it. I have a tuning appointment at the end of next month, but was wanting to make sure there were no other issues that I need to address first. I just thought it was weird that my A/F gauge stays at 14.8 no matter what. I haven't had time to check to make sure the gauge is working, but hope to this weekend.
As for the AYC pump, I'll look into that. Thanks.
 

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Personally I'd do a compression test before going for the tune, just to make sure all is healthy. Check coolant/oil to make sure all looks good. If you check those things and all looks good you shouldn't have trouble when you go for your tune.
 

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Gotcha. If that's what they want to use, then that works. As far as the A/F gauge, I think I had the same problem with my X when I bought it. I had to order a new sensor for the gauge. I have AEM gauges and just bought a new sensor from MAP. Fixed the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did a compression check last night. I got 115-125psi, but the motor has been sitting for a week or so as I wait for my new plugs to come. So the motor was cold and the battery probably wasn't the strongest. The coolant and oil looked really clean and I cut open my filter and didn't see anything shiny. The motor only has 20K miles on it, so I hope it's ok.

I'll look into getting a new sensor for my A/F gauge. Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
This is probably a stupid question, but which relays? How can I tell if they have been upgraded? As I said I'm very new to the Evos and this thing has a lot more work done to it than I thought and I'm trying to figure out what all it has done.
 

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Check under the hood. black box on the top right. open it and check the part numbers for the relays. look up online for a diagram

 

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Most guys replace those relays (fuses basically) every year or so. It's a fairly cheap maintenance item but if it goes bad, it could cost you a motor.
 

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Most guys replace those relays (fuses basically) every year or so. It's a fairly cheap maintenance item but if it goes bad, it could cost you a motor.
Is this more for cold climates or good practice? Relays shouldn’t be going bad if they’re of good quality.
 

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Is this more for cold climates or good practice? Relays shouldn’t be going bad if they’re of good quality.
mmm i would say good practice. Its inexpensive and can save you the trouble and money in the long run. like mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I finally got the afr gauge working and took the car out today. When the motor starts cutting out the gauge pegs out on the lean side. Over 3k it's 10.5-11.5.
 
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