No strange noises before it dies? How quick does it die, meaning does it sound like it's just dying electrically or is it like a sudden dead stop?

 

Dying electrically, not a dead stop. Starts, idles at 1500 for a few seconds, then kills.

How's the compression?
Is the timing chain installed correctly?

Try adjusting the the cranking injector pulse make it add a bit more of fuel on start up.

The head was decked, I'm wondering if I need to reset the chain stretch settings in the ecu?

I don't think it is injector related at all, it fires and starts absolutely perfectly, just like before.

 

How's the compression?
Is the timing chain installed correctly?

Try adjusting the the cranking injector pulse make it add a bit more of fuel on start up.

 

Any chance it could be your alternator? Might sound dumb but it fits...

 

Alternator is snug and the power lead is tight. it *was* loose but just barely. I tightened it.

 

Wouldn't hurt to test it to see what she's putting out.

 

It runs! I thought it might be too low on gas so I put in a gallon of lawn-mower gas (BP93) I had and it fired right up!

BUT, then when I went to put the rest of the engine bay back together (I had it all torn apart for troubleshooting) I noticed that THE MAF WAS UNPLUGGED. With the maf plugged in, it would die after 3 seconds. With the maf unplugged, it will run! MAF voltage read about 1.2v in evoscan at idle and 1.8v when I would rev it so I'm not sure what the deal is. I'm borrowing a friend's maf sensor to see if it ultimately resolves the problem.

 

I had this happened when I tried to run VTA and did not block off my intake completely post MAF. You have your intake sealed up post-maf to turbo inlet completely?

 

that sux

 

Yes, in fact I wonder if it isn't a massive boost leak or something? Going to do a boost leak test tonight too. Who knows where it could be...intake manifold? New FMIC? I changed out everything and even though I used new gaskets and couplers, who knows.

 

Have you gotten the car tuned to run with the modifications? It probably needs to be tuned for it to run since that's quite a few changes.

 

LOL the wheels aren't even on it yet dude

BUT FWIW, I'm using the same maf housing, intake, injectors, etc. It should be pretty damn close w/o too much work, only major changes flow-wise are FMIC, ported head, +1mm valves, and cams.

 

BUT FWIW, I'm using the same maf housing, intake, injectors, etc. It should be pretty damn close w/o too much work, only major changes flow-wise are FMIC, ported head, +1mm valves, and cams.

Were the injectors already tuned for prior to the other parts? Adding larger injectors without a tune will cause problems.

 

The FMIC won't do it. I did nothing for tuning to go to Buschur's 4" intercooler.

Could be changes to the head, but I can't say for sure, I'm far from even an adequate mech.. just a dabbler who has seen issues before.. haha.

I'd expect something to do with not getting enough air, though. Just a guess.

 

The FMIC won't do it. I did nothing for tuning to go to Buschur's 4" intercooler.

All I was implying was that the IC changed, so maybe it has a huge hole in it or maybe its filled with JBweld, who knows! However, I did a boost leak test, it holds 5psi absolutely no problem, so that's not it.

Were the injectors already tuned for prior to the other parts? Adding larger injectors without a tune will cause problems.

Yes, as I said the DW800's were in the car when I parked it to be torn apart, there's all sorts of dynographs all over the internet of my car running them and making good power

I am now convinced it is a grounding issue or a damaged wire. I borrowed Murlo's MAF and the car does the same thing. The ecu is seeing voltage (in evoscan) when the car is off, idling, or I blip the throttle just after I start it--it must just be seeing the incorrect voltage. Can anyone tell me what their MAF sensor reads when the car is off as well as idling? That would be very helpful!

In other news, the car seems to run fine with just the MAP sensor. Insta-speed density conversion? LOL.

 

better flow in the head will not cause the car to 'not idle' like this. The MAF is supposed to tell the car how much air there is and something about that is not working. you can do a quick test by putting your hand over the intake portion of the MAF housing to make sure it's pulling air in. If you don't feel it really pulling a vacuum, then you got a leak on your intercooler piping somewhere.

 

This is a very good point. Not sure which intake you have, but if you have one with the DV connecting straight onto the intake, remove the DV from the intake (leave attached to recirc hose), and cover the hole in the intake with your palm. You'll feel it pulling slightly on your hand. This is how I found my issue..:duh:

Maybe you have a bug in your lines.. :bowlol:

 

additionally, I'd be willing to say that the car is hardwired to supply a certain amount of fuel on start-up and then switching to fueling based on MAF readings a few seconds later, once the MAF is ready to provide data. So it really could only be a massive leak or a bad MAF IMO.

 

I'm seeing two different things in the service manual.. one says the ECM or MAF is bad/harness is bad if you're seeing voltages of 1.8V and lower for more than 2 seconds..

The other part is that if the engine is replaced, you need to force the MFI back into learning mode, and if the engine stalls during this, it's a dirty TB.

No clue =/

 

Wahoo! Figured it out!!! I had put one thick, main ground just above the starter, when in fact it went below the starter. It was on the block, but the spot I put it on above the starter also held a small bracket (to hold the harness off the starter), and I had put the grounding wire on the outside of that--it must not conduct very well. I moved the ground to the correct spot (the manual actually has diagrammed where each one is), fired it up w/o maf to confirm it was working, then shut it off, plugged in maf, fired it up, voila!

Put my original rom back on there and she idles pretty nice right around 900rpm. I was super excited! Didn't spend the time to futz with it any more tonight, I'll play with it this week after the snow goes away (we got about 15 inches).

My back is just wrecked from all the shoveling so that turbo bolt will stay off for now.

 

that's awesome... it's funny the way the smallest things make such a big problem

 

I thought about asking how you ran the ground, but talked myself out of it after thinking about it for a few seconds and figuring that it would never have started in the first place if it wasn't grounded:duh:

Glad to hear you got it up and running!

 

No such thing as a bad idea. In this case, I had in fact grounded it, but it wasn't sufficient connectivity.

congrats . . . keep us posted and some pix plssss

Tons of pics in my build thread!

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41421

i think boost leak test of holding 5 psi is not really enuff, pump it up a little more and double chk for leaks while the engine bay is fairly easily accessible.

earlier post someone mentioned abt bad maf, a bad maf will allow u to start the car but it will be funky lol

Heh, it was merely a 'make sure there's nothing obvious' boost leak test It held 5psi solid for 10+ seconds, which is perfect in my book. Once I get the motor broke in and start tuning it'll get a test at higher pressure.

Electrical gremlins are the worse.

Heh yea def 'the worse' I'll generally take them over coolant and oil leaks though, way less messy....unless they cause a fire of course

 

congrats . . . keep us posted and some pix plssss

 

i think boost leak test of holding 5 psi is not really enuff, pump it up a little more and double chk for leaks while the engine bay is fairly easily accessible.

earlier post someone mentioned abt bad maf, a bad maf will allow u to start the car but it will be funky lol

 

i think boost leak test of holding 5 psi is not really enuff, pump it up a little more and double chk for leaks while the engine bay is fairly easily accessible.

earlier post someone mentioned abt bad maf, a bad maf will allow u to start the car but it will be funky lol

I think he did a low pressure test because the suspicion at the time was that there might be a really big leak that would affect the idling of the car, so there was no need to do a full on high pressure leak test.

 

ha my Ms3 was down for two months cause I didn't have a ground strap hooked up after a motor swap. Electrical gremlins are the worse.

 

any DTC's...?

 

Nope, none. Except of course when I have the MAF unplugged, then I get a code throw for that.

 

hrmmm.... yet you can drive ok when you unplug the MAF?

log coolant temp and see if its normal (like the same as MAT or MAFIAT after overnight)

 

hrmmm.... yet you can drive ok when you unplug the MAF?

log coolant temp and see if its normal (like the same as MAT or MAFIAT after overnight)

he posted that it was a grounding issue in this thread and in the other thread (beaterx round 3...).

Did you have your coffee this morning?
:shades:

 

ahh...

my bad..

its late

 

ahh...

my bad..

its late

Whoops, forgot about the whole Australia thing. It's early here (almost 9am)

 

What did the.coolant have to do with this? I'm having the same problem except my ground to engine block is fine. And when I unplug maf its fine. I lost a bit of coolant since It was after intake manifold/throttle body install.

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Maybe cam sensor has gone bad, if you have a tubular manifold on the car.