my girl learned to drive in it........ have 30k on the car now stock clutch is just fine........

done go reving the shit out of if and riding the clutch youll be just fine.

 

I would trade my MR for a GSR in a heartbeat.

 

Care to explain why? I'm leaning towards an MR after having driven both, but I'd be very interested in someone who owns an MR and is now leaning towards the 5-speed manual.

 

I found it takes abit more revs to get it moving since its AWD, but after that its pretty much straight forward.
Its really up to you when you want to shift, If im taking it easy I generally shift before boost comes on.

Oh, and pedal position make it so easy rev match on downshifts thats fun.

 

enjoy the new ride you'll love it put mods in it. enjoy modding and prepare your money for parts cause it's very addicting...

 

As someone who bought a GSR (which was also my first manual car!) only 3 weeks ago...I think I can give you a couple tips on learning how to drive it.

First off, the clutch's displacement is a LOT bigger than I expected. Since it's brand new you'll be pushing that clutch ALL the way to the floor to be able to shift gears.

Second...the catch point, or when your engine engages(and hence when you really want to give it gas) is almost ALL the way back up as you release but just probably a couple inches before the default position.

Make sure you hold the clutch in that "catch" position when you start to give it gas, especially when going from stop to start in 1st gear. 1st gear was such a pain in the @$$ when I started driving because I wasn't holding the clutch long enough in the catch position when I gassed it. Getting use to this sweet spot is key to not buckling when starting up in first gear.

As you start practicing you'll want to shift around 3k RPM for each gear.

Remember to put both feet to the ground when braking from a high speed(one on the clutch and one on the brake). Or...you can simply shift into neutral and then only brake then downshift to an appropriate gear based on your speed.


Lastly, don't let the automatic Mustangs that blow by you on your first couple days get to you. They're just making all that noise because they're jealous of how sexy you are :godance:

Do these things and you'll get the hang of it in a day or two!

Have fun!:rock:

 

key things:

awd = higher revs to get moving.

when starting in first gear = hold the clutch at the catch point longer so you don't pop it and buck/bog. very important on hill starts. practice makes perfect.

getting rid of the first to 2nd gear buck will take a few weeks

might wanna invest in a counter-weight shift knob to help eliminate the 1,2,3 notchy/grinding feeling. i have a 450g + short shifter and still feel my 1-2 in the morning most of the time, but 3 smoothed out.

 

I had a 350z before I bought my X. No words can describe the upgrade. The X is so much better in every way. Go GSR. Learn, its easy.

 

Is there some bad blood I'm not familiar with? I haven't bought either model yet but I'm about to pull the trigger on an MR-T. I paid about $2000 to ensure I could test both trims so I think I'm fairly comfortable with the benefits of each, at least in stock form.

I just figured it might be worth hearing from someone leaning the other way.

From the options Mitsubishi put on the MR, it's obvious they think of it as their "high end" model. The tuner culture seems to go the other way, with a bone-stock GSR being held in high regard. I think Mitsu is trying to bridge the gap with the SSS and SE models. Best of both worlds right?

From what I gather this is simply a matter of two different end-states. On one end is a track-ready monster with huge whp and a stripped out interior. The other end is a comfortable daily driver with electronics, leather, and all the other conveniences usually reserved for BMW and Mercedes. One group wants to be "extreme" while the other wants a daily driver that still packs a punch.

Name calling between GSR and MR owners is illogical. So is name calling between Subaru and Mitsubishi owners. Why are you making fun of people who are 99% similar in their car tastes when there are Prius owners to mock?

So phraust, have I hit the nail on the head or do you have other reasons for wanting to add a clutch pedal?

 

I love all the Evo's and I can't understand why 8/9's trash on X's and GSR's trash on MR's or the other way around. I get more thumbsup from subie drivers of all generations than I do Evos.

I want to trade my MR for a GSR because I just want something more engaging, but above that hotdog hit it on #3, I want more power. I'm limited on power gained from mods compared to GSRs. It's just that all that extra money I spent between the GSR and MR, I could have some decent mods already.

That's not to say I don't like MR's though, it's nice after a tune and everything, I thought the DCT was cool, just kind of boring.

 

avoid looking at women on the street while driving u might crash your evo..

 

Thanks for the reply HotDog, it answers a lot of what I've been wondering.

PM'd so I don't derail this thread any further.

 

it's not the worst car to learn how to drive stick in. but it's far from the best too.

I will say this though, limit the amount of shock you put in your drive train while "learning" how to drive stick. the diff doesn't like that. no clutch dumps etc.

 

learn to drive stick, get a gsr, call it a day

 

how much would a '10 gsr with sss be OTD approximately. how much could i get for my 2006 honda accord EXL to put as a down payment. i wna get this EVo already holy eff...

 

I'm going to steal a line from NASIOC here:

How much should I pay for my Subaru? We live in a fair market economy. This means that Bob in Texas and Jan in Indiana buying the same car will not pay the same price. This is further complicated by the fact that Bob has a $2000 down payment, a $1500 trade-in, got to use $1500 incentives in March, pays 4.5% tax, his license is $625, and handling and associated fees in the amount of $725. Jan has a $4500 down payment, no trade-in, got to use $2000 incentives in April, pays 3% tax, her license is $411, and handling and associated fees in the amount of $895.

Even with these complications, let's say that you find out that Bob paid $22,000 and Jan paid $22,500 for a 2005 WRX with no options just like you want. Does this mean you will pay between $22K and $22.5K? No. Aside from state taxes, state fees, incentives, and other state and monthly variables, it all boils down to supply and demand. While $22.5K is fine at dealership A, dealership b may take no less than $23.5K.

Always remember: people tend to downplay their paid price to make them seem to be a crafty bargainer for some reason. Their "out the door price" they quote you is almost always missing taxes, trade-in credit, down payment, incentives, etc.

Personally, I'd look into a used one at this point too. There's actually a surprising number for sale on here and EvoM, low miles, 2008s, that might be a good deal. You'd need to do your own financing if that's an issue, which can be sticky at times.

Really, if you own the Accord already, I'd just keep it. Nice to have a backup.

 

You can get a GSR w/ SSS with a smash pricing rate of 30,599 with the $1,000 rebate but no special interest rates @ HBM right now.
Vehicle Sales Price : 30,599
Tax : 2,983 (9.75% LA County rates)
Title + Reg : 459
Let's say you have an interest rate of 5.9%, your car will be 34,000ish OTD.

You put down :
$4,000 cash + Trade in (Let's say you get 12,000 as a trade-in or you privatesell to another person)

That will bring you to around 16,000 less on the car, so 18,000 left on the loan.
for 60 months, you're looking at a payment of ~350/mo