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My weight reduction

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320K views 1.1K replies 174 participants last post by  chetrickerman  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Code: 
 Disclaimer I am not liable for any things you may do to your car
Do not post in this thread how its a bad idea to remove the crash beams, airbags, etc. My thread doesnt need to be filled with crap

BTW, it is NOT illegal to remove the crash beams or air bags

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/adaptive/inoper/Fre_ask_ques.htm

http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/problems/studies/bumper/index.html




Due to popular demand, I have been asked to make a list of the things I have removed, replaced, or modified to reduce weight on my Evo. I wont be able to remember everything right away so I will update this post as I remember more stuff. I still retain the dash, plastic covers for foot wells, carpet, door panels, head liner, and rear seats for a semi stock look since I drive my car on public roads.

I wont post the weight of parts removed because I did not weigh them.

So as my car sits on Aug 7, 2012

Image


weight with a full tank of gas and my 25 pound son in the back as of Aug 18, 2012

Image


Pics of my interior:

Image

Image


My engine bay as of Aug 13, 2012

Image


My cars weight and engine bay as of Aug 5th, 2013

Image

Image



The Removed list:

- all crash beams (front, rear, and crash bars inside the doors)
- all airbags, airbag control unit, airbag sensors, and all airbag wiring
- A/C compressor, condenser, lines and core. Replaced with AMS A/C delete pulley
- fog lights, replaced with JDM fog light deletes
- all plastic panels on the front bumper (air guides, etc)
- weight below intercooler and below where the driveshaft and transfer case meet
- stock hood latch and gutted stock hood and trunk lid
- all sound deadening (in cabin and in trunk)
- entire sound system (head unit, amp, sub, all speakers, and all wiring)
- all trunk crap (carpet, plastic, fiber board, etc)
- steel frame from the rear back rest and fold down arm rest
- all floor mats
- steel plates that hold the stock head unit in place
- all brackets/bolts that aren't used or I modified them to be lighter but still as strong (far too many to list)
- stock plastic fender vents
- all fabric insulation in engine bay, firewall, and most of it in the cabin.
- unnecessary heat shields
- driveshaft tunnel heat shield and fuel tank heat shield
- black metal plate underneath the windshield wipers (no clue what its called)
- rear black plastic panel
- steel brackets above the rear strut tower
- at least 10 pounds of unused wiring from components that were removed

The Replaced list:

- stock driver and passenger seats with Bride FRP bucket seats with buddy club low seat rails
- stock steering wheel with a Works bell hub and Momo steering wheel
- front crossmember with AMS lightweight front crossmember
- stock springs/struts with JRZ RS1 coilovers with swift main & helper springs (which are 20 pounds ligher than the exact same spec Eibach springs)
- stock wheels/tires with Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15 with 245 Dunlop star spec tires
- stock battery with AMS lightweight battery kit
- stock driveshaft with lightweight aluminum driveshaft
- stock rear control arms with Megan racing rear control arms
- stock exhaust manifold with Full-Race Pro-stock tubular manifold
- stock turbo back exhaust with ETS recirc downpipe, custom aluminum test pipe and custom titanium cat-back
- entire stock HVAC unit with a flex-a-lite mohave lightweight heater along with heater core and A/C core (weighs less than 5 pounds rather than the 20+ pound stock HVAC unit)
- stock rear wing with a Aeromotions R2 static CF wing
- stock mirrors with APR Formula GT3 mirrors
- stock radiator and fan shroud with Mishimoto radiator and flex-a-lite 2500 cfm single fan custom mounted to radiator
- stock fuel feed line (which is steel) with lightweight -6 an fuel line
- stock clutch and flywheel with ACT 6-puck and streetlight flywheel

The Modified list:

- stock strut bar (drilled holes and cut off unnecessary metal
- stock steering column support (removed all unnecessary brackets/metal but still retaining its strength)

To Do list:

Nothing, im completely out of ideas. Feel free to post any ideas :)
 
#6 ·
You got the rear seats in there right, but just removed the assembly behind them? Oh and what exhaust?
 
#8 ·
Yes. Ams DP, UR TP, AMS CBE

HereKnorThere said:
Have you seen the Kronospark batteries? They have some ultralight batteries (1.3 and 2.7lbs.)
They will soon have a Lithium battery...here are the specs

  • Weight: 1.26 lbs/.57 kg
  • Pulse Cranking Amps: 228 PCA
  • Amp hours: 3.8 Ah
  • Size: 5.5" x 1.9" x 2.5"
  • Nominal Voltage: 12.8V
Click to expand...
Not really worth it to spend any more on another battery unless they arent hugely expensive
 
#7 ·
Have you seen the Kronospark batteries? They have some ultralight batteries (1.3 and 2.7lbs.)
They will soon have a Lithium battery...here are the specs

  • Weight: 1.26 lbs/.57 kg
  • Pulse Cranking Amps: 228 PCA
  • Amp hours: 3.8 Ah
  • Size: 5.5" x 1.9" x 2.5"
  • Nominal Voltage: 12.8V
 
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#18 ·
Makes me want to go full race car build. lol

Although, everything you've done to the X you can do to an 8/9. Imagine an evo in the 2600lbs range.
 
#25 ·
This thread is an inspiration to me.... I have been wanting to this to my car ever since I bought it and took the first corner. However my girlfriend would hate it if I did this.

Do you know how much you really saved removing the A/C components? My car is still my daily so I guess I could do everything you did, minus the A/C.
 
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#37 · (Edited)
I have the 1pc girodisc slotted rotors right now, 2pc's are on the to do list

Robevo said:
if you going to a full racing build later , here is some ideas :)


Stock heater vs my heater :)
Image


Heavy balance weight on the drive shaft, makes no difference, its on or not, in my experience..
Image


after you took out everything including sound deathening material etc. and when nothing left , then you have to start cutting the parts out, which was meant to be cut out :) and later lightening up the engine bay. ie removing ABS units etc. getting instead the pedal box set up etc.. :) But be careful with heat shields!!! keep most of them on it is important!
cutting parts out from the interior:
Image

Part of the junk was took out
Image


lightening the rear doors:
Image


then the empty engine bay:
Image


the finished light front / engine bay set up, At least part of it on the pictures, notice no ABS and other crap in there anymore :)

Image


this for now :)
Nice thread though! I like!!!!
Click to expand...
Awesome, simply awesome. I NEED more info on that heater, as long as it doesn't cost more than $400, lol

SlickNYC said:
by removing the crash beams, does this significantly change the safety of the car if you ever get into a crash? can we also get a picture of what your interior looks like now(with seats and dash? Thanks!
Click to expand...
The crash beams are only there for "parking lot crashes" (10 mph and under collisions)

4-D said:
Nice work chet! How much weight did you save from removing the sound deadening on the firewall? I hate how that crap looks.

BTW an AMS lightweight battery kit will support the SSS sound system.
Click to expand...
Well the fabric insulation/sound deadening doesnt weight much. I just removed it so it cant catch on fire

The AMS battery is pretty kick ass. I have had less issues with it than the stock battery

HappyMint said:
I've seen and Evo 8 at like 2300 pounds. It was so light it was illegal to be used its auto x class, they had to ADD weight. Wish I could find that video, someone posted it here at one point. Keep in mind, it didn't have a cage, or any real safety equipment.
Click to expand...
Yea, but that Evo is just nuts

Snakes709 said:
chet how is your gas mileage since you removed all that weight? Did you notice a difference?
Click to expand...
Well with the weight and the bigger turbo I can get a little over 30 mpg on the highway on pump gas. With E85 I can almost get 25 mpg highway

Hiboost said:
Interesting thread for ideas, I guess strip out as much as you can bear to live without. I was also sizing up the rear seat and will be removing the heavy metal bars if I can still allow the headrest inserts to work somehow.

Some of the heat shields can be safely replaced with a sheet of DEI heat reflective material but elmininating it completely can be risky. With the stock turbo setup and heat shields you may be ok, T3/T4 setups with tubular headers you will want to add heat shielding or replace the stock with better coverage shielding. Just having the turbo seperate from the exhaust manifold by 1mm can send enough hot exhaust flow onto the firewall to melt your $2000 main chasis wiring harness. It's what took us out of the 2012 One Lap even this year.

What events do you typically run this car in to bring about such weight reduction? Seems like you are in the 500+ lb reduction area already which saves you from having to make an extra ~50 horsepower along with less driveline and braking system stress. :shades:
Click to expand...
If you take out that frame there is no way the headrests will be able to stay in. Take them out, who needs them?

Once I go T3 setup (most likely the AMS kit) I will install those heat shields

So far I just run track days for now. There isnt much for a time attack circuit out here, but I plan to change that
 
#28 · (Edited)
if you going to a full racing build later , here is some ideas :)


Stock heater vs my heater :)
Image


Heavy balance weight on the drive shaft, makes no difference, its on or not, in my experience..
Image


after you took out everything including sound deathening material etc. and when nothing left , then you have to start cutting the parts out, which was meant to be cut out :) and later lightening up the engine bay. ie removing ABS units etc. getting instead the pedal box set up etc.. :) But be careful with heat shields!!! keep most of them on it is important!
cutting parts out from the interior:
Image

Part of the junk was took out
Image


lightening the rear doors:
Image


then the empty engine bay:
Image


the finished light front / engine bay set up, At least part of it on the pictures, notice no ABS and other crap in there anymore :)

Image


this for now :)
Nice thread though! I like!!!!
 
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#36 ·
Interesting thread for ideas, I guess strip out as much as you can bear to live without. I was also sizing up the rear seat and will be removing the heavy metal bars if I can still allow the headrest inserts to work somehow.

Some of the heat shields can be safely replaced with a sheet of DEI heat reflective material but elmininating it completely can be risky. With the stock turbo setup and heat shields you may be ok, T3/T4 setups with tubular headers you will want to add heat shielding or replace the stock with better coverage shielding. Just having the turbo seperate from the exhaust manifold by 1mm can send enough hot exhaust flow onto the firewall to melt your $2000 main chasis wiring harness. It's what took us out of the 2012 One Lap even this year.

What events do you typically run this car in to bring about such weight reduction? Seems like you are in the 500+ lb reduction area already which saves you from having to make an extra ~50 horsepower along with less driveline and braking system stress. :shades:
 
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#42 · (Edited)
Thanks. Its not bad. I can still have a conversation on my phone while driving.

jyamona said:
yea chet post some more pics if you have them...I'd like to see the trunk / rear seat area etc.

edit: also, what are everyone else's thoughts on that driveshaft balance weight?
Click to expand...
Ok, I will get more pics.

The driveshaft weight is 100% pointless. Just like the weight below the intercooler

Murlo26 said:
Well, if I keep my car I think I am going down this route :)

I won't make it quite as light as yours as you removed some stuff I would keep, but if I keep the car, I would hope for around 3200 lbs or so.
Click to expand...
3200 shouldnt be to hard at all

Hiboost said:
Odd, I don't even know where the driveshaft balance weight would sit, I'll have to take a look.

chetrickerman: We visited the High Plains Raceway just east of Denver this year for the One Lap, seemed like a really fun course although I only had 5 laps on it as my co-driver ran the morning session. Not sure where you are in Colorado as the state is pretty big. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
HPR is pretty nice, but I go to Pueblo Motorsports Park instead. Its cheaper, brand new pavement :D, and is only an hour away compared to HPR which is almost 3 hours away
 
#41 ·
Odd, I don't even know where the driveshaft balance weight would sit, I'll have to take a look.

chetrickerman: We visited the High Plains Raceway just east of Denver this year for the One Lap, seemed like a really fun course although I only had 5 laps on it as my co-driver ran the morning session. Not sure where you are in Colorado as the state is pretty big. :thumbup:
 
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#44 ·
I have an MR and in 6th it cruises at 3250 @ 80 mph, pick a quieter exhaust like the Buschur Crossflow and even that stuff removed probably wounldn't be so bad.

On my GSR the higher RPM's on the highway and louder exhaust I had would have been killer though. I swear that ETSv1 exhaust was one step from having no mufflers at all.
 
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