Just get them turned/resurfaced/whatever you want to call it at a generic brake shop. Should cost all of ~$40. Don't take the car to them, just the disks, or most will start spouting BS about how they're too warped to turn and it's better just to get a whole new set and new pads and blah blah blah.

 

Your warrenty is voided cause you have aftermarket wheels.

 

I didnt know rotors where warrantied anyways? Thats good too know if they are

 

rotors warp. dont bother with the dealers. turning them might buy some time if they're not warped bad, but you'll need new ones soon no matter how you slice it

 

post some pics.

 

some shops can resurface rotors

 

If you take your car to the dealer, prepare to open up wide.. you can do what the others mentioned. I don't know how well you are mechanically but it isn't hard to do it yourself.. stop riding the brakes jk

 

Did you have the correct lug nut torque on the new wheels?

 

Seeing the somewhat nebulous comment about not being able to feel the rear rotors, I'd like to know what exact symptom has lead you to a diagnosis of your rotors being warped. I didn't think it was a common thing to warp rotors on these cars, given the sheer size of them.

 

My front rotors were warped when I bought the car (used, 16k miles). To the point where they were touching the caliper when rotating...

They are prone to deformation, despite their size.

I had them resurfaced and have been fine since.

 

See if they are good enough to be turned. If not then someone on here would undoubtedly sell you a lightly used set for reasonable. Quite a few of us have upgraded to Girodisc and have those paperweights in a closet.

 

Unless you have like 1,000 miles on your car, the dealer will not replace the rotors under warranty.

They are considered a wear item

 

Im not sure about the emergency brake setup on our cars since I havent done my brakes yet(if its inside the rotor or part of the caliper) but typically when its part of the rear calipers you can determine if the rear rotors are warped by just pulling up slightly on the emergency brake handle while driving at higher speeds to apply only the rear brakes. if you feel a pulsation then you know the rears need resurfacing/replacement as well.

 

It's not in the caliper, which is why the center section of the rotor is pretty beefy.

 

ah true, then that test wouldnt work on the Evo. Been a while since i have been back there.

 

Aftermarket wheels

Someone torqued your wheels too tight

 

Someone torqued your wheels too tight

thats probably the least likely cause of rotor pulsation. it does happen but its more common to see problems like that with cars with lug bolts(ie mercedes, bmw, vw). The more common cause of break pulsation is beating on the car, emergency stopping situations, racing and running the brakes hot and just usual wear and tear as the brakes get older.

and resurfacing a brake rotor only makes it more prone to having pulsation again since you are removing metal and making the rotor thinner so it dissipates heat less effectively.

 

So I forgot to add. The rotors have about 10 autocross's on them.

You can feel the fronts because the steering vibrates when you brake but how do you feel the rears?

I don't use a torque wrench to tighten my lugs, but I never over tighten them! They come off a lot easier than if firestone had tightened them.

 

You should be using a torque wrench dawg... you can pick one up at harbor freight for like 20 bucks if you're strapped for cash. There's no way to tell how much or too little you're torquing your lugs with an impact gun.

I'm 99% sure the dealership doesn't use a torque wrench either... their impact guns probably torque somewhere in the neighborhood of 120 ft lbs if I had to guess. I had to jump up and down with my breaker bar to get them to move at all when I last took it in for service. My impact gun would not budge them at all and actually ended up nearly stripping one of the lugs trying to get it off. Hence why I went and got a breaker bar haha

 

mine too at 11k both front rotors are warped

 

Mine rears were trashed at 21K and my fronts were salvageable. The previous owner put full metallic pads on the car. Fail. I had to resurface the front rotors and the rears had to be replaced.

 

Ok so what auto shop would turn rotors? If I were to walk in with rotor in hand!

Advance auto parts?
Auto zone?
Midas?
Firestone?

 

Any shop that advertises brake service.

I think AAMCO does.

I got mine resurfaced at CarMax... I have an extended warranty from there though (where I bought my car).

 

Take it to a Napa, they are much nicer people and I think they are one of the cheaper places as well. You can take them in and they will turn them for you in about 1 hour if they are not busy.

 

O'reillys has been able to turn my stockers twice already (55k miles), I bet they're good for one more - and co-incidentally they need it AGAIN. Doh, it's the damn rain plus putting some good spirited driving into 'em. The water causes this more than anything. And once they warp bad from that, they'll do it again eventually.

O'Reilly also told me they'll special order Wagner "blank" OEM ones -- about $55 ea plus shipping. I'm not into the "unsprung weight" redux, the dang thing has plenty of torque and power on the track. I need coilovers more than expensive rotors.

 

how can you tell if the rotors are warped?
i have 25k miles on the car since new and never replaced rotors before but there is a clunking noise coming from the front passenger side after driving a while. im pretty sure the sound comes from metal and assuming that was the rotor...

 

how can you tell if the rotors are warped?

Steering wheel vibrates when you brake, brake pedal might pulse slightly. When really bad, steering wheel will shake.

 

I started this thread some time back.
Since then I replaced the drivers side plastic fog light grill with that from an MR for better brake cooling, I did 1000 miles of very gradual stops to wear out the brake pads evenly without heating them superhot.

My rotor warped feeling is gone, so my rotors were fine!

 

oh ok got ya. just as i said uneven pad material transfer glad the re-bedin worked.

 

Ok I have a question regarding this...

My rotors feel grooved to the touch, lots of circular grooves around the entire surface like an old vinyl disc. There's also what appears to be splotches of pad material.

Here was a small excerpt from my most recent track day, notice what the front end is doing while I'm braking hard... I am attempting to brake in a straight line but my steering wheel is all wishy washy back n forth and you can see the resulting movement.

I don't have a wing, which I'm sure doesn't help this situation, but at the same time I feel this in the front. Could it be an illusion that I'm feeling it in the front because the rear is getting very light? Or are my rotors eff'd in the A?

I realize it looks very exaggerated, but it was a pretty rapid shifting back n forth in my hands. Too bad I didn't have in-car footage of this.

 

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, my car has ~11900 miles on it, original rotors :shades:

aaand... I JUST uploaded that video so it might be grainy/choppy at first until U-toob straightens it out.

 

I don't use a torque wrench to tighten my lugs, but I never over tighten them! They come off a lot easier than if firestone had tightened them.

OK, now I'm totally confused.

If you never use a torque wrench, how would you know if the lug nuts are over-tightened or not? Or are you saying you just put them slighter tighter than finger-tight?

Arizona state law requires auto repair shops to use the impact gun torque sticks for tightening lug nuts/bolts. They can use a torque wrench AFTER the torque stick, but not by itself.

Grrr...