Anyone?

 

Don't drive it hard.. I'd be wary of the instant torque transfer once the clutch catches. Kinda like dumping your clutch on a launch

 

A slipping clutch will not hurt your transmission. Think about it, it's slipping, therefore it cannot transfer as much torque through the system as a properly working clutch would. If anything, it is easier on your drivetrain. Take it easy, make it last as long a you can, and replace when you have the means.

 

I wouldn't be worried, dont' forget you MUST get a new master cylinder when you get the clutch install done. DO NOT USE THE STOCK ONE FOR AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH!

 

I got the magnus, but I've heard people say that the newer ones (2011+) have better stock CMCs.

 

The only thing youll be hurting is your flywheel, and if you plan on replacing that then dony worry.. mine just started slipping with only 11k miles, im doing the clutch master tonight and the clutch tomorrow... Joy

 

Honestly, if you're tight on cash just buy a new OEM clutch and don't worry about all the aftermarket stuff. You can reuse your flywheel (must be resurfaced) and possible even the pressure plate depending on how bad it's slipped and caused heat spots; you may be able to get away buying just a new disc ($108) and TOB ($65, don't reuse these). If you do need a new pressure plate, it'll be another $172.

http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2008/MITSUBISHI/LANCER/EVOLUTION%20GSR/?siteid=214093&vehicleid=1442155&section=CLUTCH


During the clutch install have the shop remove the plastic restrictor pill in the slave cylinder, doing so will help the clutch last much longer.

To the stock clutch naysayers, 416whp and mine is still holding strong at 46k miles. It's all about how you drive and removing that pill.

 

Aren't you more worried about torque? For what its worth, aftermarket clutches are rated for a certain amount of torque, not hp

 

Yea I'll be removing my pill tonight

 

I think I still have my stock clutch laying around also.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. Okay so I see that you said that it's easy on my trans. But questions. Since my rpms do rise when it slips will that cause the turbo to spool and then make the turbo stop when the rpms drop. When the clutch catches back up with the car actual speed. (Hope that makes sense)

Happymint I know you said not to use the stock cmc. However doing my research on here many are still using it. I read on how it is failing. Due to quick shifting. And since I don't race and also barely drive spirited due to the baby on board. I will not be slapping through gears trying to get a chirping action. Lol.

Plus I heard that quick shifting actually puts strain on the trans. Because we are awd. And looking at the YouTube clips of AMS 900hp evo. He is gunning it but making good shifts. Not trying to slam through gears. Smashing his clutch and what not.

 

Happymint I know you said not to use the stock cmc. However doing my research on here many are still using it. I read on how it is failing. Due to quick shifting. And since I don't race and also barely drive spirited due to the baby on board. I will not be slapping through gears trying to get a chirping action. Lol.

The CMC doesn't only fail from quick/race shifting. For many, it has broken under normal driving conditions. It has to do with the increased force required to operate an aftermarket pressure plate. If you upgrade the clutch, you need to upgrade the CMC regardless of driving style.

 

Also to afr can someone tell me Ifbi can just replace clutch and flywheel if stick. Or do I need the whole nineyards

 

Be very easy sir, very easy

I thought the CMC failed because of the added pressure of an aftermarket clutch?

Id replace it if I were you, god how embarrassing for that to go out, and itd be at the worse possible time.

 

Yea I know but I thinkin will be safe. Plus I am stock might just keep it stock. And this way my warranty does not go kaput! Lol. It is cause if added pressure from what I read. But hopefully if I go after market I will be one if the lucky few...

 

Another option to the expensive (and sometimes failure prone) aftermarket clutch master cylinders is the most current OEM Mitsubishi plastic CMC. They've gotten beefier over the years and you rarely hear of a 2010+ failing.

 

They've gotten beefier over the years and you rarely hear of a 2010+ failing.

I just got finished install my magnus CMC and my 2011 stocker looks just like all the other pictures I've seen on here, doesn't look stronger to me... I could be wrong though :freak:

 

Everyone else has summed it up.

Just don't do this

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. Okay so I see that you said that it's easy on my trans. But questions. Since my rpms do rise when it slips will that cause the turbo to spool and then make the turbo stop when the rpms drop. When the clutch catches back up with the car actual speed. (Hope that makes sense)

Happymint I know you said not to use the stock cmc. However doing my research on here many are still using it. I read on how it is failing. Due to quick shifting. And since I don't race and also barely drive spirited due to the baby on board. I will not be slapping through gears trying to get a chirping action. Lol.

Plus I heard that quick shifting actually puts strain on the trans. Because we are awd. And looking at the YouTube clips of AMS 900hp evo. He is gunning it but making good shifts. Not trying to slam through gears. Smashing his clutch and what not.

Looked at my 2010 CMC the other day. It's cheap plastic garbage... Glad I replaced it. I'm not sure where you are getting your information, but the fact of the matter is that you're simply getting the WRONG information. Feel free to risk it, but when your CMC goes and you're stranded on the side of the road remember what I said in this thread.

If you stay with stock clutch, it's fine to keep stock CMC.

 

Honestly I got my info from here. Amid I can even remember reading something joey wrote. Stating his 100+ launches with his stock cmc and he is using tho exedy twin disk. When I was reading that thread it seemed to me some had issues others didn't that is why I said I will hope for the best. No need to get a lil excited. We are all friends. Or at least I take it like that. Especially when I see the main names pop up like yours Chet joey. Etc. I look forward to read what you guys write. Because I trust in your words. But I do understand it's my vehicle..

 

The Exedy Twin has only a slightly stiffer pressure plate than stock. That might be why he was ok with his stock CMC. I have the Exedy Twin as well but didn't chance it and upgraded.

 

Why does it seem like your clutches are wearing with such low mileage? I'm worried now as to how much longer mine will last. I just broke the 49,000 mile mark on my '08 GSR. Should I be worried?

 

^Nope, if you lasted this long, you'll be good for a bit more. Check the mileage thread, there are a couple in there with more than 80k on stock clutch.

 

I had a 1991 Integra GS with +250k miles on the stock clutch. It needed to be replaced, but I sold her just like that with the clutch set that the next guy can install. I also owned a 2002 RSX that had +170k miles on the stock clutch with no signs of needing replacing at all. I guess my question is, why does the stock clutch on the Evolution X seem to wear so easily?

 

Evo X has a torquey engine

 

Fair enough. Lol I just assumed that I can expect the same kind of longevity from the stock Evolution's clutch that I had with my previous Hondas.